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Published: January 27th 2006
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The Gateway of India, probably Mumbai's most famous icon
In the foreground is one of the ubiquitous black-and-yellow Premier taxis, (Indian version of a 1950's Fiat). In my emails home, the word I generally use to describe my flights is 'uneventful'. It certainly doesn't apply this time!
As both of our flights left the same night, Joel and I went to the airport together. Mine was the earlier flight, so I checked in well ahead of time, located what I thought was my boarding gate and then went back to wait with Joel. After a leisurely dinner and coffee, we wandered down to the gate, reluctantly said our tearful farewells (no, really there was just a lot of manly back-slapping and hand-shaking!) and I passed through my boarding gate... only to find it wasn't actually my boarding gate after all. Walking increasingly quickly down a number of corridors and round numerous corners, I finally came in sight of my elusive gate. I was listening, distractedly, to the PA announcements, when suddenly I heard "Will Mr Michael Mee-doze
please report to Gate 6
now, Mr Michael Mee-doze..."
My panicked response - charging down the corridor at full speed - must have made it obvious that I was the troublesome 'Michael Mee-doze' in question, because I was waved through the metal detectors very quickly, met by a
Another shot of the Gateway of India (as you can tell, I didn't have time for much sight-seeing in Mumbai!)
The Premiers use an analog meter system so ancient that the real fare has to be calculated using a conversion chart. harassed-looking man who urgently beckoned for me to follow him, and then rushed to a waiting mini-van. When we didn't take off immediately, the driver explained that there was still one more passenger missing, making me feel slightly better. We had only waited a few minutes though, before the driver received instructions that they couldn't wait any longer and we set off. A close call indeed! After careering around the runways for what seemed like ten minutes, we finally located my plane and I sprinted up the stairs, breathlessly apologising to one and all. Thankfully though, noone seemed to mind and I hardly received any evil looks as I slunk down the aisle, grinning sheepishly.
After such an exciting start, the rest of the flight seemed to drag on and on, and I was exhausted by the time I reached Mumbai Airport. It was about midnight at this stage (I seem to be making a habit of arriving in new cities at midnight?) and I considered simply reserving a guesthouse from the airport and getting a taxi straight there. But when I enquired at the reservations desk, I was put off by how expensive it was and wandered out
Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (formerly the Victoria Terminus)
This amazing, gothic-style train station looks more like a palace or cathedral from the outside. of the terminal to find other options. A friendly passerby told me about a cheap airport bus (less than a tenth of the taxi price) which would be arriving soon. About an hour and a half later, the afore-mentioned bus dropped me in Colaba, the tourist centre of Mumbai. I wandered the streets for a short while, with mangy street dogs snapping at my heels, but at first the only places I could find open were out of my price range. Finally I found a tiny place at a reasonable cost, and dropped gratefully into bed!
The next morning I paid a lengthy visit to Victoria Terminus - the amazing Gothic-styled railway station near Colaba - to reserve a 2nd-class sleeper to the town my EFICOR contact said he'd meet me in. I leave tonight. Before then, I have an appointment at a local medical clinic to get my final rabies shot. So it seems that all will go to plan, and I will be in Paratwada (the town I'll work in) by lunch-time tomorrow!
Needless to say, India is totally different to Thailand. For one thing, just about everyone speaks very good English - and enjoys the
A view down one of the streets leading off CST
Many of Mumbai's streets are full of interesting and impressive architecture. chance to use it. There isn't the instant friendliness and good will that I grew so fond of in Thailand, but people are very genuine and always willing to help when they can. By the time I arrived in Colaba, I'd already had two offers of free places to stay (from fellow passengers, returning home) and numerous pieces of helpful advice and concerned warning.
As everyone says, the poverty in India is very confronting and sobering. I feel guilty every time I walk down the street here and pass the street urchins & cripples - for the good clothes on my back, the money in my wallet, my comfortable life in general, etc. As sad as it sounds, I'm learning not to make eye contact with any kids in the street, as any smile or nod inevitably results in plaintive cries for money and being followed for a block. I don't really know what else to say, maybe I'll write about it again when I've had more time to come to grips with it.
I don't want to end the entry on that depressing note though, as I am genuinely enjoying my short stay in Mumbai, and have
CST at night
You can see the 4m-high statue of 'Progress' on top. met lots of good people. Whenever I answer the inevitable taxi-driver/tout/interested local question of where I am from, my reply is invariably greeted with a very solemn nod of the head (and a thoughtful stroke of the beard, for those so endowed) - "Ah yes, Australia... very good cricket team!" =) Steve Waugh is practically a national hero here, as much for his work with Indian orphans as for his cricketing prowess.
(No photos this time - I have taken a few shots round Mumbai but can't access them yet - maybe I can add some later.)
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Barbara
non-member comment
A Close Shave
Wow Michael that was cutting it fine. Bombay sounds very much like it was when I was there about 40 years ago! Is it really that long! Take plenty of refreshments on the train and we pray that the trip goes well. Make sure you know what platform the train is leaving from!!Much love.