~~~~MALTA~~~~A Mediterranean Jewel

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Few years back in 2012, I happen to visit Paris and I promised myself to revisit the city once I will find my forever to be. I truly believe what Ernest Hemingway said about the city, “If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.”

As promised, I decided to go for a yearly vacation to Paris and Italy with my forever. We started planning in the last week of April for a travel in June first week. So we have good 25-30 days to make the bookings and get the visa. As a pre-requisite for applying visa, we booked non-refundable tickets and made hotel bookings as well, as both of us were very sure about the dates and destination. Since our maximum duration of stay was in Italy, we required a visa from Italy Consulate. And here comes a twist when we checked the visa appointment date online, showing available slots only for first week of June. We were stuck as our tickets were non-refundable and then we started exploring all alternative options like increasing the duration of our stay in Paris so that we can get the visa from Paris, delaying the plan with a heavy charge, cancelling the plan, etc. Everything turned upside down!!!!

(Traveller’s Tip: Before making bookings please check the visa appointment dates via online official consulate portals)

The dilemma to stick to the plan or cancel it altogether continued for the next two days but the stars blessed not only our trip to Paris and Italy but with a surprise for both of us. The surprise was one more destination to the itinerary. So, it all happened when my spouse was asked to attend an official meeting in MALTA for three days during end of May 2017. At first, he thought Malta was part of Asian continent but later on find out it’s part of Europe only and that was the time we realized “when you want something, the whole universe conspires to make it happen.”

We checked the visa appointment dates for travelling to Malta and were lucky enough to get appointment the very next day. Without any more delay, we applied for Schengen visa to Malta consulate through VFS Mumbai. We applied for visa for a travel to Malta with a request for visa validity for additional 1 month along with multiple entry so that we can travel to Italy and Paris as well. Since, Malta Consulate is located in Delhi, our passports were sent to Delhi. We were looking forward to the trip now as everything turned up yet again but still surrounded by doubts to get the visa for our travel to Paris & Italy from Malta consulate as the time required to process visa applications was a minimum of 15 working days under normal circumstances and we had only two weeks’ time.

Nevertheless, sometimes being hopeful is the only way out. We kept calm for one week but started being fidgety as the second week approached without any update on the visa. We tried reaching the Malta Consulate, Delhi over phone but they did not entertain us. Still, we called them insistently and they reverted only one day prior to the date of travel that they had dispatched the passports to VFS. The news was like a bright sunshine after days of snow and rain. We decided immediately, that one of us will go to Delhi to collect the passports and in case if it’s already in transit to Mumbai, other will collect it from Mumbai. After all the struggle, we got hold of our passport in Mumbai in the afternoon with stamped Schengen visa expiring after two months with multiple entry type, and that is all we wanted. At this point we realized that sometimes when things are falling apart, they may actually be falling into place.

Without much change in the plan, we headed for Malta for a week. Turkish airlines offered the cheapest return fare from Mumbai to Malta costing around 60-70k, with layover at Istanbul for 7 hours and actual flying time of around 9 hrs. We had no option but to fly with Turkish airlines. We couldn’t really plan for a day wise itinerary for Malta as we were very sure if nothing else we will enjoy the views of Mediterranean Sea. Also, Malta is a history-rich archipelago in the Mediterranean Sea, located strategically between Sicily and the North Africa coastline. The archipelago embraces Malta and two of its sister island, Gozo and Comino.

Finally, we landed at the Malta airport after a travel of 17 hrs and were quite relieved to feel the bright sunny evening. Though, there was no rush at the airport, still immigration took 30-40 minutes and during the immigration we realized that the entire team of Yash Raj productions was travelling with us, for the shoot of the movie called “Thugs of Hindostan”. That was one reason why our Visa processing got delayed. However, at this point of time, we did not regret the delay rather were quite excited hoping to catch glimpse of the starcast of the movie including Amitabh Bachchan, Aamir Khan and Katrina Kaif during our stay in Malta. Since, immigration took good 40 minutes, we reached late to pick our bags from the belt but could only find one of our bags revolving on the belt. Immediately, I spotted our second bag on one of the trolleys moving towards the exit, handled by an old lady dressed up in black kaftan, totally covered up and only her eyes were visible. At first, I was hesitant to ask for the bag but still I asked her, “Excuse me, if I can see the tag in the bag and she replied-“Oh is it your bag, I thought its mine….” Without any altercation, I shifted my bag from her trolley and quite hastily the old lady disappeared. Rather being antagonized with this incident, we quickly hired a cab and reached the hotel. Let me clear the airs, sadly we could only spot a “lady thug”!!!!!!!

Since, we were staying right next to the sea, we went for a stroll by the sea late evening and unexpectedly caught by cold & windy weather in the summer season. The temperature dropped quite a bit in the late hours as we started shivering. While shivering and enjoying the chilly weather, we were pleasantly amazed to spot an Indian Restaurant “Saffron” for dinner. The restaurant was located at St Julian’s street and offered a view of sea with fireworks.

The next day we decided to explore the “Gozo Island” and took a ferry from Sliema to Gozo. The ferry approximately took 1 hour to reach Gozo. The vibrant blue sea made the ferry ride effervescent with a stunning view of the capital city Valletta. Malta and the two sister Island Gozo and Comino had some unique untouched panoramic location and was quite famous for getting featured in several films and TV series like “Game of thrones (GOT)”, “Clash of the Titans”, “The Odyssey”, “Gladiator”, Troy”, “Captain Phillips”, etc. One of the most stunning location in Gozo was- The Azure window made up of limestone, arch shaped rock, which sadly collapsed into the sea recently. It vanished into the sea in March 2017 amid heavy gales and blows, owing to inescapable natural corrosion. The azure window offered fascinating backdrop to the Dothraki wedding ceremony scene in the famous TV series- GOT. The sight enjoyed prominence close to a superstar and being adorned on numerous travel flyers till now also. Then, there were stories that Malta and Gozo had churches one for every day of the year prominently unveiling religiosity. We visited The Church of Saint John the Baptist, commonly known as the Rotunda (means building, tower or sculpture) of Xewkija (name of the village in Gozo), the biggest Roman Catholic Church in Gozo. The church was magnificent and richly decorated from inside especially the domed ceiling. The next stop was drive to best preserved prehistoric Ġgantija Megalithic Temples, which is part of the UNESCO world heritage list and considered to be in existence even before Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids. These temples were illustrious for their gigantic Bronze Age structures and like most megalithic sites, faces the rising sun. As narrated by one of the Gozitans, the temples were built by gigantic genes and the term Ġgantija referred to as place of giants, devoted to a fertility god.

After getting enough doze of Gozo, we moved to one of most beautiful beach destination known as Comino Island, which is famed for its giant, cyan-hued Blue Lagoon offering crystal clear water having an area of 3.5 km square. It was accessible by ferry and water taxis taking 30 minutes by ferry from Gozo to Comino. It is believed that the island got its name from Cumin seed which used to flourish on the island. The very first glimpse of the blue lagoon pulls out a swimmer in you, even if u don’t know swimming well. Other activities like snorkeling, diving, wind surfing, water sports, boat ride to natural Comino caves can also be relished in the weather when currents are gentle and kind. Since, it was summers and waves were quite harsh and powerful, we did not risk our lives and restricted our activity to walking tours around the island. The walk was more of hiking than a normal plain coastal walk with strong cold squalls, as the lagoon is enfolded by limestone cliffs and caves, which aided as dens for pirates and bandits in the Middle Ages. The rest of the day went by enjoying the gorgeous sight soaked in sun with cold flurries, perfect way to adore a day at bay. Not only this, this place happens to be a bird sanctuary where you can spot Turtle Dove, Wryneck, Redstar, nightjars, wood warblers, cuckoos, owls.

While returning from Comino and planning for the next few days, we learnt about the significance of Malta, placed right at the heart of the Mediterranean, the small island nation has turned out to be a major shipping hub by offering easy access to both Eastern and Western Mediterranean ports. Not only this, Malta is an ideal cosmopolitan location where cultures, tongues, food & festivals of both Europe and Africa converges. Malta’s strategic location at the commercial crossroads connecting Europe, the Middle East and Africa has magnetized the interest of the several powerful cultures for thousands of years. The British, the Romans, the Phoenicians, the Arabs, the Ottomans, the Knights of St John, and the French, all reigned the island at one or other point of time and contributed to the potpourri which is today’s Malta. As expected, the British rulers survived for elongated period in Malta until liberation in 1964. Malta joined the European Union in 2004.The locals speak English, Maltese and Italian.

Having covered two lovely islands, we had in our platter for the next few days were Mdina (the old capital city), Valletta (the new capital city), Marsaxlokk and some local cuisine for the soul.

While touring we were told that Mdina (old capital city) was used to be the capital in earlier years which was a unique example of ancient fortified medieval city enclosed in bastions, located in the Centre of Malta, with narrow streets offering mystic views of the island. Presently, the city is known as the “Silent City” by Maltese as vehicles are restricted inside the city except few. The city runs in a tranquil setting as you walk through the narrow streets and alleyways. The city was first colonized and fortified by the Phoenicians (first civilized people). Mdina gains importance from its prime location on the island’s highest point, far away from the sea. The walk around the city with audio guide was like travelling through the time and relieving the medieval times. Since I am an avid follower of GOT TV Series, I could recognize some of the sights in Mdina, getting featured in the GOT as King’s landing and Malta’s forts serving as the Red Keep. Another prominence was Mdina Glasses exhibiting artistic innovation, made by specialist artisans, ranging from delicate vases, colourfull bowls, fused glassware (plates, clocks, frames, etc.) and intricate lamp work figurines and shapes.

As we moved from the old capital city to the new capital city, we were amazed to observe the structure of the modern city Valletta, which is also a UNESCO Cultural Heritage Site. The city was built as a fortress to preserve Christendom as well as a cultural masterpiece. Valletta is called "a city built by gentlemen for gentlemen." This place was also full of cathedrals and the biggest cathedral was located at the Saint John's Square Street known as Saint John's Co-Cathedral. The cathedral from outside looked like a conventional plain structure and some restoration was going-on, however, the magnificent interior was an eye opener as it was dazzling with gold accompanied by gorgeous paintings at ceiling portraying the life of Saint John the Baptist. The Cathedral is home to Caravaggio’s largest painting “The Beheading of Saint John”. As narrated by the audio guide, the cathedral shows the importance of the Knights of Saint John who created a stronghold of Christianity in the city, with a duty to protect Malta and the Catholic faith from attacks by the Ottoman Turks, and this cathedral was built as a mark to celebrate their success. Without having any next destination, we walked down the lanes to explore the area and stationed for a while at a famous heritage café Cordina, serving a traditional Maltese special sweet pastry called "Kwarezimal". Another famous site was Grand Harbour of Valletta, fenced by massive fortifications having historical significance where the knights bravely defeated the Ottoman Turks. A lot of other attractions in Valletta was located closely from each other like, the beautiful Upper Barracca Gardens, put up on the highest point of Valletta full of colourfull flower beds offering a beautiful view of the grand Harbour along with several bronze statues of prominent historical figures, including one of Winston Churchill. Below the garden, lies the old military canons. Valletta also housed its Prime Minister’s office. Next visit was to a small and picturesque fishing village of Malta called Marsaxlokk, located near south coast of Malta, a must for all fish lovers. Apart from largest fish market, the village had colourfull brightly painted boats traditionally known as luzzu boats, sheltered around the coast. We chose to feast on fresh seafood at one of the restaurants alongside the coast.

In one of the afternoons, we tried the traditional savoury snack of Malta called Pastizzi,which was flaky and more like a croissant, filled with chicken, cheese and peas. Although, these were baked but still high on calories. We also tried delicious Imqaret (Date Cakes) filled with dates and spices, covered up in flour dough, usually flat in shape and deep fried. It is believed that these date cakes were remnants of the Arab world which was left behind in Malta. Continuing with the food tasting spree and craving for Indian food, we dined at a Moroccan restaurant “Muse Middle East”. We gorged on to Chicken platter, Moroccon bread with hummus and spicy dip and our taste buds exploded with Moroccan spices. Another favourite spot was waterfront of St. Julians, full of open restaurants along the Spinola bay. We tried Grilled Rack of Lamb marinated in Maple Syrup, Spring Onions, Chives, Pecan Nuts & a touch of Chilli at San Giuliano Restaurant. As part of last night celebrations, tried some luck at the Casino also.

I must say, we enjoyed every bit of our stay at Malta. Although, it’s a small country but has a beautiful experience to offer. The thought of settling down in Malta crossed our minds and when we got to know that to become a Maltese citizen (Owning a European Union passport), one needs € 800,000……the thought waned out quickly!!!!



Cannot agree more with Alexandra Stoddard-------When you leave a beautiful place, you carry it with you, wherever you go”.

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