Charming Chanderi


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Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh
January 17th 2011
Published: January 23rd 2011
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Well, the overnight train from Pushkar wasn't half as bad as I was expecting. It was warm, comfortable and quite clean! I was relieved the first experience went so well, as I have a few more to go in the next half of my trip!

The overnight train took us back to Delhi where my group and I said our goodbyes. I was heading straight to another hotel to meet the girls and our "Unforgettable India" group for the next 15 days.

After a day in Delhi and another stop in Agra with my new group to revisit the majestic Taj Mahal, we headed to a small town in Uttar Pradesh called Chanderi. The town is still off the beaten track and the only westerners to visit the villagers are Intrepid travellers.

We spent our first night in the home of our Chanderi guide, aka Kallie Bhai. Within minutes of our arrival, Jess claimed that she was going to come back to Chanderi to spend a month here with Kallie Bhai and his family!!! The family live in a beautiful multiple level home and we could smell the amazing aromas of our dinner before we even entered his home. We had the most delicious meal on a beautifully set table on the rooftop and the girls and I had his daughter do a henna design on our hands for us.

We spent our second day in Chanderi again with Kallie Bhai, who would have to be the nicest man I have ever met. He was never without a smile the entire two days we were in his company and his love of his hometown was so evident. We spent the morning exploring the village and it's temples & mosques. We also took a drive out to an old Royal Hunting lodge for a picnic lunch and saw some fantastic pre-historic rock paintings at sunset.

After a couple of late nights, the girls and I decided to have an early night. That was until our guide bought us four girls a bottle of rum. He had also arranged for local musicians and a dancer to perform for us. As most of you know, your's truly has never been shy in getting up and dancing (particularly after a rum or two) and that night was no exception! We danced the night away and it was only at the end of the night we finally realised that behind the dancers pink beaded dress and veil, was actually a man! Which makes perfect sense now that I think about it - why would a young female in this small, conservative town be out late at night dancing around in a dress in a room full of men and drunken westerners...!

Unfortunately we only had the two days to stay in Chanderi. It's definitely a place I'd love to revisit one day!




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