The price is (nearly) right


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Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Khajuraho
January 7th 2006
Published: January 16th 2006
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After some nighttime soul-searching, I realised that getting annoyed at all the hassle is just going to prove too stressful in the long run. Grinning and bearing it is the only sensible option. My decision was put to the test as soon as I left the hotel in the morning, with a rickshaw-wallah asking if I wanted a lift, but I smiled sweetly and declined with thanks.

Most of today was spent with admin, such as a bit of e-mail on an excruciatingly slow connection, and purchasing a train ticket for my onward journey from Bandhavgarh.

On my way back to the hotel in the evening, I was met by a guy from the taxi company that had missed out on my custom to Bandhavgarh. He asked what price I had managed to get, and then scoffed that it was only Rs 100 less than the price he'd quoted me. I reminded him that, even though I'm no economist, buying for Rs 100 less was more sensible than buying for Rs 100 more. He then offered me a price Rs 100 less than the one I'd accepted from the hotel. I told him that I'd already given my word on this price so I couldn't back out. He didn't seem deterred by this, and only left me only when I said I'd already given a deposit of Rs 300.

Back at the hotel, after another massage reminder and an enquiry regarding if I wanted room service, one of the staff followed me to my room and actually came inside before I could close the door. In a secretive tone, he asked me to say to anyone that asked that I had found the taxi myself and that the hotel hadn't done it - it seems as though the owner of the taxi firm that had lost out had contacted the hotel to ask what the hell they were doing undercutting his price. It seemed a bit after the fact to be having this conversation, but I agreed. Oh for a fixed price ...

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16th January 2006

Champion photographer
Hi Jabe I've been following your journal with delight, as I followed a similar route last year (except Lucknow etc) (see www.francesallen.com/travel/india_2005. Being a lone traveller has advantages - you can spend forever pottering around and can skip meals, but I reckon you are easier target for the touts. And I agree that Khajuraho specialised in some of the worst and. for me as a woman on my own, the most threatening. Having said that, I wouldnt have missed the temples of Khajuraho. And it is easy when being worn down by the hassle not to talk about the pleasures of meeting most people in this charming, crazy place. I'm dying to know. Your photos are SO good. What kit are you using and are you a professional masquerading as a simple traveller. Also, like your laconic, self-denigrating style. Will continue to follow your travels with envy. Frances

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