Blogs from Bandhavgarh NP, Madhya Pradesh, India, Asia


Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Bandhavgarh NP January 22nd 2018

...'In the forests of the night, What immortal hand or eye, Could frame thy fearful symmetry' With these words from the 18th-century poet William Blake ringing in our ears ('symmetry' can be made to rhyme with 'eye' if you try!), we set forth from Rishikesh in the northern state of Uttarakhand on a journey of more than 1,000 kms (600 miles) south to Bandhavgarh National Park in Madhya Pradesh. Our goal: to see a wild tiger (with an 'i', not a 'y'). We'd have been happy to see just one of the 2,000 or so remaining on the Indian subcontinent. It was something that had eluded us five years before, even after 20 hours of safaris in Rajasthan's Ranthambore National Park, that most famous of tiger reserves. Oh, and just in case we should be accused ... read more
The goddess Durga
A morning safari

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Bandhavgarh NP December 16th 2017

A Sarfarmie & A Train Day 16. 16th December 2017 Our last day at Skays Camp. Satyendra & Kay have said that Bill & Shirl can send the kids over, on their own, any time & they will be well looked after. The kids seemed keen too so that’s a possibility for the future if Bill & Shirl need a break. To keep us all occupied Satyendra drove us all (except Mal) to his nearby farm about 5 miles away. On the way we passed many small farms often with kids waving and shouting “hello”. We were on the edge of the reserve here so there were forests on one side & farms or open ground on the other, all very picturesque. When we arrived, we were greeted by 2 dogs (collie style) who seemed very ... read more
Reedies & Mals Huts at Skays Camp
Outdoor Dining Area
Bamboo bike trailer on way to farm

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Bandhavgarh NP December 15th 2017

Safari 2 Day 15. Friday 15th December A lazy start. Breakfast at 8.30, I just had meusli & coffee – how very English of me. Have decided on eating less as am putting on weight with all the pakoras and fried breads between meals (& sometimes with meals). The others decided to walk into the village for the ATM to pay their bills here. I had a good chat with Satyendra & Kay explaining our whole adventure to them, whilst they exlained the huge arguament that had occurred earlier next door – apparently there had been a drunken party in the garden next door (disturbing Mal & Shirl) and afterwards an Uncle had made love to the wife, or some equally disturbing outcome… But more of village gossip later. I finished my blogs of the last ... read more
Owl in Tree
Lagurs near River
2 Tiger Cubs

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Bandhavgarh NP December 14th 2017

Day 13 (1st in Tala) 13th December We arrived tired & grumpy in our posh taxi at about 7am to be met by our host Satyendra who asked if we wanted breakfast. We declined and all went to bed. We all have nice rooms. I awoke around 11am and went to the outside dining area, where the others were already having brunch. There I met Satyendra’s English wife, Kay, who had been on the safari that I had originally booked this morning but was apparently unchangeable (I feel that we should pay extra as they have had to meet the costs for our train debacle). They are both in their early 60’s, so around the same age as us. But what a couple. Satyendra is quite a character, always laughing and joking. Ready with a tall ... read more

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Bandhavgarh NP December 14th 2017

2nd day in Tala. 14th December Up at 5.30 and meet others at 6 ready for our morning safari (Mal not coming as she can’t get up in the mornings, due to her insistance on late nights) We drove to Gate 1 (there are 3 or 4 gates), our driver Hadrim (Satyendra’s brother) takes our passports at the check-post, to check it’s us who booked this mornings safari (only about 6 jeeps are allowed in at any time). We get our passports back and pick up a guide and head off into the reserve, just as it’s getting light (6.45). It is a bit cold though although I had a fleece on, so made use of the blankets provided, as did the others. Very soon we saw some sika deer very close to the road, then ... read more
Deer Fighting
2 Sarus Cranes

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Bandhavgarh NP February 28th 2016

We arrived back into Delhi mid-day and once we'd found our taxi (which is not an easy feat at Delhi airport!) were whisked away to the hotel. This was different from the one we had previously stayed in, closer to the airport and in a completely different part of the city which actually felt like a different city as it was much calmer and quieter. The hotel was quite pleasant and strangely owned and run by French people. We spent our couple of days there largely catching up on admin and washing but we did pop out to Qutb Minar, an old Islamic complex south of the city which has a very beautiful brick minaret. The second evening there we met the other couple that were also going on our big cats trip - Rick ... read more
Spotted deer
Sambar deer

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Bandhavgarh NP March 8th 2014

It’s a well-known fact that, people tend to ignore the beauty around them in search of something far away. And yes that’s exactly what happened in my case. My native place is a small town known as “katni”, in the state of Madhya Pradesh (MP). Just 85 kms away from katni, Bandhavgarh national park is situated, where the density of Bengal tigers is highest known in the world. This place was declared as a national park in the year 1968 and spreads over an area of 440/sqkm (including the buffer zone). Royal Bengal tigers were first introduced in the forest by the Maharaja of Rewa and the forest was a hunting ground for him, until it was declared a national park. And guess what; in all those years when I was in Katni, I had never ... read more
Protesting Villagers
Hut in the resort
Magadhi Entry Gate (6.30 am)

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Bandhavgarh NP March 8th 2013

It's been a while since I've been anywhere with internet, and unfortunatley the small local cafe that criminally attempted to charge me 100R p/h has some very poor computers, and so though I have 3 hours to kill before my train to Bhopal, I can't access my hotmail or upload photos to flickr. I've now got 6 books in my backpack that I'm steadily working through, so at least I have reading to occupy me during the long transit waits. Sorry to any family or friends who have emailed me recently - I'm unable to reply at the moment! Khajuraho was a noisier, more 'touristy' and less friendly town than Orchha, and though the temples were in near-pristine condition and the carvings were superb, I was after 24 hours already looking to leave. The international airport ... read more

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Bandhavgarh NP May 1st 2012

It was our long awaited plan to visit wildlife. What will be the better version to choose a tiger reserve to keep our enthu high. So we have chosen to visit the Tiger reserve park, with the highest density of the great Royal Bengal Tigers in the world, i.e. Bandhavgarh National Park. We have been planning this trip for quite a long time. We have done many background studies also by reading other blogs, reading about the tigers over there, photo blogs etc. In fact the available blogs are so interesting they will double your urge to visit here. From blogs and listening to others experiences we understand that the best time for sighting tigers is the summer, when it is less difficult to spot them because quite often they come to the waterholes for the ... read more

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Bandhavgarh NP January 13th 2012

Today is the longest drive ever - 12 hours on this god damn truck! I'm certainly learning to be more patient as the days go on. We get lost several times due to diversions, yet when we ask for directions everyone tells you a different thing!...It seems no-one in India is capable of saying "no", as they want to appear helpful so instead they'd rather lie or just make stuff up; "8km then turn left.." says one man...."2km then turn right..." says another, with their funny little head wobble. Everytime we stop we have a swarm of people around us staring at this big dusty truck of white people arriving in their village - everyone is very friendly and we have some fun with them...They want to take photos of us (especially the blonde hair) so ... read more
Vultures in the National Park
Picture of what we should have seen!

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