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Published: February 11th 2010
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The Backwaters & Beaches of Kerala
Wednesday 3rd February
After some pretty intense security checks (including full 'rub down', scanners & detectors we were boarding the plane to Kochi, 1 1/2 hrs flight from Mumbai.
The flight was steady & we were in Kochi in what seemed no time at all. I arranged a pre-paid taxi and we were on our way to the Time Square Hotel. The hotel was comfortable, clean & fresh. Kochi is the first place we have been which is not full of hustle & bustle. Right on the lake shore there was a park with children playing & couples strolling - the place had a good feel to it.
Sam hunted out a supermarket (the first we have seen whilst in India) and stocked up on some non-Indian fare.
Thursday 4th & Friday 5th February
On the move again, we agree a good price for a Rickshaw to the train station and board the train for Kottayam, our starting point for the backwaters. We had booked a 2 night stay at Coconut Creek Homestay in Kumarakrom, 15km to the west of Kottayam on the Shore of Vembanad
Lake. Our driver was waiting patiently (the train was at least an hour late!) and took us the short drive to Kumarakrom.
Absolute bliss! Kumarakrom is a sleepy backwater town right on the lake shore, no hassle, really chilled out and hot - time for some proper R&R!
The food at the homestay was brilliant, real home cooked Kerala food just as they would eat at home. A mix of spiced fried fish, vegetable curry, chapatti, rice & an assortment of spiced vegetables and pickles. If nothing else this made it worthwhile staying at Coconut Creek.
The next 2 days we spent lounging around on the veranda, watching the boats and fishermen go by on the lake & just soaking up the atmosphere of a great place.
Saturday 6th February
Here comes the time to move again, it's sad to leave Coconut Creek but we must push on. Again it's back to the train station to wait for our train to Kollam where we hope to strike a good deal on a houseboat for a night.
We had booked into Nani Hotel as recommended by Lonely Planet - what a cracking
place. Feather pillows, proper duvet, super powerful shower & brilliant A/C. The building is great, we can't fault it but the staff were somewhere beyond useless, the reception staff knew nothing about what was going on within the hotel (i.e. restaurant times!) and when we did finally work out when the restaurant was open it took 1/2 hour to give our order and over an hour for it to arrive despite there being only a handful of people in the restaurant and just as many staff! Anyway, despite that we had a good stay and the best night’s sleep we have had for a fortnight.
Via Southern Backwaters we had arranged a houseboat cruise which would start in Alleppey, 60km away. Basically they had had a couple go from Kollam to Alleppey, one way so had the boat potentially coming back empty for another fare the next day. We got good deal on the boat which included a taxi from Kollam to Alleppey and all our food included and agreed a 9.30am start.
Sunday 7th February
The taxi driver is crazy, not his driving, it's him! We had requested that he was instructed to take
it steady otherwise they just drive like nutters! And he kept his word, he drove the Ambassador very safely but he was just mad in himself.
We reached the boat jetty at Alleppey around 11am and after initial welcomes with coconut water (drunk straight from the coconut trough a straw) and blessings of flowers around our neck for a safe journey we started our slow trip back to Kollam.
What an experience the day was, watching life on the backwaters. Boys laying fishing nets from coracles, whole families bathing, washing clothes and playing in the water, a floating supermarket, Chinese fishing nets looming over the lakes, and much, much more.
The food on the boat was again outstanding, traditional Thali style lunch served on a banana leaf with a selection of pickles, spiced vegetables, curry, fish & rice then a traditional Kerala dinner with the full works washed down with a couple of bottles of Kingfisher beer.
Our small cabin was hot in the night, as we had been tight Yorkshire folk and gone for a non A/C boat. It was quite an experience sleeping on the boat, all the sounds from the river bank, the
gentle rock of the boat but unfortunately the heat meant a hit & miss sleep.
Monday 8th February
Although we hadn't had a great night’s sleep we felt OK after breakfast on the boat, then we were off for the last 3 hours of sailing to reach Kollam. Our crew of 3 (driver, engine man & cook) had been great so we said our farewells & thankyou's and were on our way to the train station, onward to Trivandrum & Kovalam beach.
Due to the time of the end of the houseboat cruise we ended up with a 3 hour wait on the station for our train which then it turns out is running an hour late so we end up waiting 4 hours at Kollam station! The stations are interesting places to observe but four hours is a heck of a long time on the station (unfortunately there is no such thing as a cafe or proper waiting room so its sitting on bags on the platform!).
Eventually we get to Trivandrum (now 1 1/2 hours late) and our pre-arranged ride to Kovalam is still waiting - the drivers seem to have tones
of patience here.
Tuesday 9th February - Monday 15th February.
So here we are, Jeevan Ayurvedic Beach Resort right on the front of Lighthouse beech in Kovalam. The hotel is basic but clean with good facilities including A/C, sea view balcony and a swimming pool on the front. Kovalam itself is great for choice of multi cuisine restaurants, shops and tour operators but it's a bit like being in Benidorm - it's full of sun worshiping British grannies! But at the same time loads of young backpackers giving it a really cool vibe and you can't knock the weather, 35 degrees with a cool sea breeze.
We will be here for 7 nights and plan to visit the Nayyar Dam wildlife sanctuary for a bit of elephant spotting, but apart from that we will stay around Kovalam, reading by the pool, swimming in the sea & strolling the shops for souvenirs to bring back.
We will leave Kovalam on the 15th & travel to Mumbai (Bombay), stay there for 1 night (hotel T.B.A.), try to squeeze in a bit of sightseeing, then fly back early hours of the 17th (2am local time).
See you all when we get back.........................Col
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