A voyage across the Vembanad lake


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October 14th 2014
Published: October 14th 2014
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A day on the Vembanad Lake – A Travelogue



01 June 2014 - Sunday



I can feel my hands trembling and shivering while attempting to begin my first ever travelogue. I can also feel the enthusiasm in my mind, and its eagerness to deliver a story that conceived 2 weeks ago. This is my first ever attempt to narrate an incident on paper, a trip from Kochi to Kumarakom and the most fabulous voyage on house boat for a whole day. The delectable taste of crispy <em style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">karimeen (Kerala’s state fish) and the extra large <em style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pazhampori (Nendran banana fry, the national snack of Malayalees) still linger around my mouth. Talking, or chatting as being described by our new age techies, about a tour may be a child’s play for anyone as it requires only a mouth and a minimum of two ears to trickle a conversation. Writing, on the other hand, requires coordination of all our organ friends – eyes, hand, fingers, mouth, ears, brain and our whole body. Now having said this much, I can feel my stress level slowly easing out.



To begin with, I am a native of Ernakulam district in the state of Kerala, popularly known as “God’s Own Country”. Anyone who lands at this paradise may ponder twice before leaving. The nature has blessed in abundance, which is very well evident when you peep through the windows while landing on the Nedumbassery runway at Kochi airport. It seems as though the earth has been painted green in this part with a thin strip of bluish green tinge which is nothing but the longest river of Kerala, the Periyar. The thick bush of coconut trees, from which the name “Kerala” was derived (kera = coconut), was a matter of pride for the entire malayalees world over.



Well, I am working with one of the country’s largest multinational company, which has very well succeeded in taking India to the World, located in the industrial belt of the state. We have a club attached to the Staff colony and the club governing council decided to conduct a one-day family picnic to Kumarakom in the neighbouring Kottayam district. Kumarakom is known for house boats on the magnanimous Vembanad backwaters along the flamboyant Arabian Sea, the queen of oceans. With a mightly “yeah” response from 19 families, the club committee got into the business and booked a deluxe double storeyed house boat through our go-getter Basheer who is known for getting things done. Basheer was little hesistant at first as he had a bitter experience of cancelling a booked houseboat the previous week as a scheduled tour had to be cancelled owing to rough weather and non-availability of bus to reach Kumarakom. But with all factors coming in favour this time, club secretary Surendran swung into action and led the preparations to set everything right.



On the clear Sunday morning of 18 May 2014, the family members assembled at the club to experience the aquatic extravaganza. After a light tea, the team set off to Kumarakom at 7 AM brimming with pleasure and enthusiasm. We can feel the vibrant joy our children were experiencing as they sang and danced with happiness while boarding the bus. Lalitha and family joined us at Edappally. Throughout our journey, a brand new white Volkswagen Vento was following us. Our Unit Head Kumaravel Sir was in the car with his family. He wanted to give a ride to his newly purchased car to reassure its potential.



We enjoyed the fleeting trip in the air-conditioned chariot and we felt the blessings of Sree Poornathrayeesan and Vaikathappan as we rode through the royal roads of Tripunithura and the temple town of Vaikom. As our watches ticked nine, we reached the KTDC jetty at Kumarakom. Time ticked further as we ensured that we are the right spot. Venugopal, our evergreen catalyst of cheers, parleyed with the boat owner to find out the location where the boat is anchored, and then navigated us to the houseboat. We strode through the banks as a flock and wondered at the imposing look of the imperial Vembanad Lake. The children enjoyed the short walk as they were seen roaring and pinching one another till we reached the houseboat. Amazed at the majestic look of our double-decker houseboat “Ganga”, we stepped into it one by one. Kuttan, the boat manager was busy managing the breakfast for us. He welcomed us with a mango drink and informed that we shall push off after the breakfast.



‘Ganga’ was really majestic in its true sense. The lower deck comprises of four fully furnished double cot beds with attached bathrooms. We were really amazed at the arrangements – well laid cots, dressing tables, chairs etc. – all rooms linked with a narrow corridor. The well arranged drawing area impressed with a mural painting of Kerala arts. The kitchen is situated at the rear end of the lower deck where breakfast preparation was going on. The upper deck seemed as a big conference hall with a huge table at the centre and about 30 chairs around it. The roof is thatched with trunks of betel nut trees and bamboos. The sides are covered with carved wood works. Overall it looked as if we are in a palace court. As the team went around looking into the interiors, some of us were seen impatient on the boat still being anchored. We enquired with manager Kuttan about the itinerary, and he told that the boat will start after the breakfast. Food cannot be served on motion, as it may affect the balance of the boat in the mid-water. We spent our time loitering inside the boat.



By 10 O’ clock, the manager declared that the breakfast is ready. Within no time, the buffet table on the upper deck was full with dishes – appam, egg curry, vegetable kurma, tea and water – and we enjoyed the food both due to its tasty flavor, the new ambience and of course, the hunger instinct in us after a long travel.







After the sumptuous breakfast, ‘Ganga’ set off to an enchanting voyage across the mighty Vembanad lake. After initial steering through the Kumarakom bird sanctuary and the Coconut Lagoon resort, we entered the majestic view of the backwaters where we found ourselves in the midst of water. We remembered an old poet’s verses – “Water, water everywhere, but not a drop to drink”. It’s only water, water and water around us. The boat strode along the backwaters and we could see some shores in-between and a good number of houseboats – small and large piercing the water way up and down. While some of our friends preferred to sit near the driver ‘srank’ to see the boat cruising through the water and occasionally diving fishes, others felt comfortable sitting at the upper deck viewing the panoramic beauty of Kerala’s largest backwater resource. For sometime our Rajesh navigated the boat. He steered the boat with so much ease and perfection that we felt he is a born ‘srank’.



Some cultural programme were in progress at the upper deck. We could see Gregory Mathew anchoring the show. Satheesan Unni, our courtyard singer, Ajitha Surendran and Gregory stole the show with some time-tested melodies. In between, I came up with a witty story of a political leader. This was followed by a grand Anthakshari, a team game where one team will initiate a song and the other team must sing another song which starts with the first alphabet of the last word of the previous song. During all these time, different types of snacks – banana chips, pakkavada, peanut candy, biscuits and soft drinks – were distributed to keep our stomach engaged. Children were seen playing their games with one another in their own style. Some were manipulating with their smart phones as though they were not interested in such games and were mature enough to keep themselves isolated. As time passed, the boat cornered near the shore at Murikken’s church for our lunch.







Once the boat was anchored, everyone was on their feet, got ready for lunch. Some descended the boat for a small walk on the shore. Soon the buffet table was replenished with a garland of dishes – rice, sambar, aviyal, thoran, koottu curry, pickles, pappadam, chicken curry and then our king of foods – Karimeen fry. Every mouth watered at a single sight of all these and a flash queue was formed to take all these as immediately as possible. We could feel the polling by the rate at which the <em style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Karimeen vanished one by one. The dishes were really tasty and all of us including the kids enjoyed the lunch. After that incredible feast, many of us got on to the shore to witness the beauty of our house boat dancing in the majestic Vembanad Lake and for a brief photo session. Some of the boys went near the Murikken’s chuch which possesses a history of its own.



It’s travel time again and the boat hooked off the anchor. The boat swung along with the mild waves for a short while until it reached the middle of the lake. Then it rode steady through some islands and shores. Suddenly there was an announcement from Gregory that the boat is tilted towards one side and asked some of us to move to the other side to regain the balance. The tilt happened due to many of us occupying chairs at one side to avoid direct sun rays at the other side. After the heavy lunch, many preferred to have a light nap and kept isolated from one another. But the kids were in no mood to rest and they continued their playing spree with full vigour and extra energy from the <em style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">karimeen.



As the boat traversed through, we were amazed at the long stretch of Vembanad backwaters. We could see various key locations along the Alappuzha – Kottayam stretch, including the mighty bridge that connects the two districts on the either side of the lake. As the boat travelled near the Pathiramanal area, we heard with enthusiasm the history of the island. The name 'Pathiramanal' means 'Sands of night'. The island was once used by the governments to punish various culprits and thieves. They were brought in boats and were left in the island after being found guilty. They have to spend the rest of their lives in the forest island. But now the situation is changed. It is a wonderful tourist spot. The scenic beauty of both sides of the lake as well as that of the island is mind blowing. It is home to many rare varieties of migratory birds from different parts of the world.



We went further and now we felt that we are almost reaching the spot where we set off in the morning. Oops…. I forgot to mention a main incident in between. Actually I should never have forgotten that – our tea time in the boat. A tray full of hot tea cups decorated the table. For a moment, everyone turned to the table. As told earlier, some were keeping their eyes closed for a nap enjoying the breeze. Then that happened. The combined aroma of coconut oil and hot fried banana thronged every nose and pulled everyone to the table. It is the exotic odour of <em style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pazham pori (Banana Fry). The extra large fried banana (in local language, we would have called it a one-and-a-half snack) thrilled every one and we enjoyed the tea – pazhampori combination. In no time, the trays went blank.



It’s almost 5 PM now and we could see the Kumarakom bird sanctuary and the Coconut Lagoon resort, which we saw in the morning. We understood the reality that the journey is nearing the end. Along the water way, we could see many houseboats anchored on the sides which have ended their trips and many ones behind us to end their journey. As we got ready with our baggages, the boat reached the anchor point and as we de-boated one by one, our minds were fully relaxed, relieved and felt de-stressed. It seemed as though all our stress have been engulfed by the mighty lake, thanks to her magnanimity, kind-heartedness and her motherly affection. We could feel the warmth of her hug throughout the journey, just like a kangaroo care her baby.



With nice memories, we walked back to the parking bay where our bus was waiting to take us back to the club. We got into the bus and travelled to the club through the same way we came in the morning, though we talked with the driver to divert through Thanneer mukkam bund and Andhakaranazhi to witness the sunset but he declined citing reasons of longer distance and bad roads. After a thumping dinner at Edappally Abhirami, we reached the Club gate by 8.30 PM, thanks to the club committee which organized the tour very well.







G. Sunil Kumar







=== THE END ===

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