Strolling the Fort


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February 25th 2006
Published: March 10th 2006
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I caught a Rs 2.50 ferry across to Fort Cochin this morning to allow me to visit Fort Cochin itself as well as Mattancherry, the two most picturesque parts of Kochi. The harbour doesn't quite fall into that category, being dominated more by container ships than smaller vessels.

A short walk from the Fort Cochin ferry terminal brought me to one of Kerala's most famous sights - the row of Chinese fishing nets. Each of these requires 4 people to operate the pulley system that raises/lowers the net, with the counterweight being rocks tied together with rope. The whole ensemble looks like some sort of mediaeval siege engine.

I breakfasted at a place called Monty's, in a shaded leafy back garden containing a curious but suspicious cat and an Englishwoman explaining the rules of cricket to an Israeli.

The buildings in Fort Cochin have a European flavour, with plenty of colonial architecture and lively pastel colours. Next on the sightseeing trail was St Francis Church, the first Christian church built by Europeans in India. It's nearly 500 years old, though in its history it has been renovated and changed its flavour of Christianity several times. By contrast, the Santa Cruz Cathedral just down the road is a 20th century building - there was a mass taking place so I was unable to take a look inside.

After plodding 3km across to Mattancherry, a dull journey I would not suggest anyone attempt to repeat, I was feeling rather sapped of energy. Mattancherry Palace turned out to be barely worth a visit, with the only noteworthy contents being some wall murals depicting scenes from various Hindu epics that were almost indiscernible in the darkness. I also entered just before a group of 95 Indian tourists did, which turned the place into one big traffic jam.

I was unable to visit the synagogue in Jew Town because it was Saturday, but after a quick wander around the bazaar (seeing a piercings shop claiming to be able to "punch noses and ears") I felt the urge for a siesta. I caught the ferry back to Ernakulam, being slapped with a Rs 1 luggage charge for my shoulder bag. I also had a conversation with an English guy who was not only travelling with a 1999 Lonely Planet, but seemed to have an accommodation budget of Rs 100 per day -
One of many Communist symbolsOne of many Communist symbolsOne of many Communist symbols

Apparently Kerala was the first state in the world to democratically elect a Communist government
the mind boggles at just how shoestring an existence some travellers can get by on.


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St Francis ChurchSt Francis Church
St Francis Church

The first Christian church built by Europeans in India


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