Kathakali In Kochi

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We were pre-warned by passing travellers of Fort Cochin's reputation as a mozzie-fest and were almost put off from visiting at all. It's island setting and abundance of water is the perfect breeding ground for the little critters who reputedly eat you for breakfast, lunch and dinner (and the posh mozzies even tuck into you at supper). Regardless, we felt we had to visit and brave it anyway, as one of Kerala's historical and cultural highlights, it was not to be missed.

The journey from Kollam to Ernakulam (the mainland jumping off point for Fort Cochin and part of the wider area known as Kochi) was our first taste of A/C train travel and I can safely say, it was a real pleasure. Gliding smoothly and quickly through Kerala's picturesque countryside at a comfortable temperature and with room to stretch out, is the way to go.

We arrived into Fort Cochin and immediately recognised the European colonial influence (mainly Dutch) in its grand mansions and architecture. No sign of the winged evil ones so far...

We took a stroll through the old town of Fort Cochin and down onto the sea front promenade where fisherman heave giant, Chinese, cantilever nets in and out of the shore - a famous sight in Kochi. They were proud to show off their catch to onlookers.

That evening we watched the Keralan art form of Kathakali. A mixture of dance and theatre performed by men adorned in colourful makeup and huge, decorative costumes. It's a wonderful spectacle although equally, a test of endurance. Makeup application (which is part of the show) takes over an hour and short stories of two scenes can last over an hour, as each word of the story is effectively acted out in hand gestures, body movement and facial expression. Whole stories can last as long as 10 hours! It was worth seeing though and we managed to stay for the full duration and witness the final battle of good vs evil. Many of the rest of the audience had already departed before then in an exodus similar to that of a football crowd whose team is 4-0 down with ten minutes to go.

The next day we went to the imaginately named "Jew Town" - the site of the settlement of Palestinian Jews escaping Roman persecution. There's a pretty little Synagogue full of hanging lamps and narrow streets bustling with spice shoppers. Nearby Mattancherry Palace was worth a visit especially for its vivid murals depicting scenes from the Ramayana. Laura and I were serious observers showing the proper decorum of art enthusiasts, until we reached the downstairs bed chamber. We couldn't help but giggle at the murals of Krishna tweaking milkmaids' nipples and putting his hands and feet in undescribable places, all with the backdrop of copulating animals. Krishna, the old dog! That's why it pays to have 6 hands and 2 feet - 8 milkmaids!!

We headed next to Calicut in northern Kerala and I can confirm we each didn't have one single mozzy bite (possibly DEET poisoning in later life) - a lot of fuss over nothing.

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Photos

The Final Battle
Good vs Evil - lots of twirling, growling and gesturing

Applying Makeup
The first hour of the Kathakali show is makeup time - we went for a drink instead

Kathakali Brahma Character
A goodie, as signified by the green face

Kathakali Demon
A baddie, as signified by the red face - he growled a lot!

Grass Roots Level (Without Grass)
Kids playing cricket

Comments

[The Taylors]

Shop sign
Well Tom, didn't know that you have more hidden talents particularly sewing! You do seem as though you are having a marvellous experience in India despite the tummy bug - hope that you are both well now. Perhaps shares in Deet will be worth thinking about! With love xx

[Jema]

Ole green eyed monster
I spent three weeks in Kochi when I was fifteen - loved the photos of both the waterways and the Kathakali - brought it right back (and a very pleasant distraction on a cold grey monday morning!). Very jealous. Carry on having fun! xx