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In what some may think is a disturbing trend, this journey to Kerala afforded me another opportunity to visit an exorcism temple - the Sri Chottanikkara Devi Temple - the third such visit to a exorcism related place in the past 18 months.
Prior to the visit, and due to my UN contacts, I visited the Shilpa Society for the Mentally Handicapped in Cochin, run by Dr Premila Hari Mohan. The doctor started the centre a decade ago in honour of her mentally handicapped daughter, Shilpa, who passed away in 1995. I spent two hours talking to the workers and watching educational and physiotherapy classes for the intellectually disabled in India. It was a very sobering experience, and after witnessing the struggles that these children endure just to exist, I shall never again complain about any trivial problems that befall me.
An early morning saw me combine a ferry and a beloved autorickshaw journey from sleepy Cochin towards Chottanikkara. The temple was founded on a hill where more than 2000 years ago, a farmer kept a calf that was an incarnation of Lakshmi. This is an illustrious place, revered by pilgrims as having 'special' properties - for by appealing to one of its deities, Bhadrakali, "people haunted by evil spirits" (to borrow words from the Temple's guidebook) are able to dispel this unwanted presence and resume a peaceful life. I wonder what devotees of the Sri Chottanikkara Devi Temple would think of the Shilpa Society and its students? This would be a question without an answer on this day, but as with my previous exorcism experiences, they tend to raise more questions than answers anyway.
Arriving at the temple reaffirmed the more subdued nature of Kerala - absent were the crushing throngs of pilgrims that swamped the enclosed spaces of the exorcism temple at Balaji in northern India. Instead, a wide entrance devoid of much activity greeted my arrival. After checking my camera bag and shoes at the entrance, I wandered through the temple's large grounds where groups of pilgrims quietly moved around the complex praying most discreetly at the various shrines and small abodes. The whole ambience of the place was so peaceful - the opposite of my expectations. Perhaps a week-day visit was the cause for this, but even so, there was definitely a more serene feeling to the place.
I hopelessly looked for signs of exorcisms, and my aimless ambling combined with being the only foreigner present, soon had temple officials approaching me with instructions on how to fully appreciate this holy place. Firstly, I had to enter the inner temple - perhaps exorcisms in there, I thought. However, in order to enter, I needed to remove my shirt, which perplexed me a trifle, since the temple requested people to be 'respectfully attired' yet denuded of half my clothes, I entered the chamber. Inside was a semi-open area with a small contingent of pilgrims - the women were fully clothed, but all the men were similarly stripped to their waists. Now if the sight of a foreigner was the subject of curiosity earlier, then my pale torso amongst a horde of swarthy men was extremely obvious indeed. Following the movements of the faithful soon had me facing a small statue with a garland of flowers. In front of the statue were two lines of twelve round, gold dishes - each with a circle of tiny wicks burning gently - it was beautiful. I soon left the inner temple and replaced my shirt - more than slightly bemused at the lack of any exorcism indicators.
It was then that my fortunes changed, as the temple's astrologer introduced himself to me. He was an elderly man with a heavily furrowed brow painted red and yellow, and possessed a warm nature and comforting smile. After a brief discussion about my journey to India and the Sri Chottanikkara Devi Temple, the name Bhadrakali was mentioned: "Have you seen?" he questioned - and "No" was my immediate reply - for it was this deity I had been searching for in a temple full of deities. The astrologer led me to the furthermost end of the temple and down several flights of steps towards an enclosure dwarfed by an enormous Pala tree, it's canopy providing cover to the whole area.
Upon entering the enclosure, I noticed on my right pilgrims praying to a statue of Bhadrakali. However, it was when looking to the left that I froze in my steps. For here was the imposing three-metre wide Kala tree, covered by an incalculable number of nails - and not just ordinary nails - but each a heavy, rusted item of at least 60cm in length, and they covered the main trunk of the tree from the ground to several metres in height. These nails are used in the exorcisms, for hammering them into the tree entraps the evil spirit that haunts its unfortunate host. This task is completed by the priest and haunted person, but I would not observe this procedure today - however, it would be incredible to witness.
Despite the nails, it wasn't their sight that left me gasping, but something else - for together with the nails were an immense number of children's plastic dolls that had been hammered into the tree as well. My jaw dropped as I looked above me, dwarfed beneath a collection of mutilated dolls of various shapes and sizes, some had resided here for so long that they were shrouded with the dirt of ages. Closer examination revealed that he nails were driven through the dolls at very specific points of the body. Was the nail through the heart of one golden-haired doll supposed to remove a heart haunted by unkindness or a lack of love? Did the nail hammered through the forehead of a dark-haired doll signify a haunting causing a migraine? Did the nail through the eye hope to banish the sight of evil spirits, or what of the doll pierced through the arm - had it been placed there by a person whose own arm had struck someone in anger? Yet again, an exorcism experience provides me with more questions than answers.
Though I had prepared myself for the intensity of visiting an exorcism temple, I had not expected this. The macabre sight of all those innocent looking dolls pierced by such violent nails was quite disturbing. I encircled the tree again, looking once more at the faces of these dolls that were intended for a far sweeter and gentler purpose.
I walked away from the tress as the astrologer (and his friend) instructed me on how to receive a blessing, at which time I was handed a collection of aromatic flowers and bindi powder (subsequently placed on my forehead) and was told by the astrologer that such items would ensure much peace and happiness for me. Thanking the astrologer for his kindness and help, I left the temple. Feeling quite numb, I collected my camera bag and shoes and stepped into my waiting transport, where my bumpy autorickshaw journey back to Cochin saw me sit silently in total bewilderment. My thoughts had been brutally captured by repeating images of this most bizarre morning - the tree, the nails - and damn it - those dolls.
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Anoop
non-member comment
Nails on the Tree
Thanks, first of all, for writing your mind out, without any bias. I would rather name it Nails "on THE" tree, rather than Nails On A Tree. I am an Indian National, residing in the immediate vicinity of this particular temple. I possess one american professional degree, in addition to three indian professional degrees. (It is not a material info... just for the heck of it...) I was, as a child, amused at the sight of the nails on the tree, and if you would have watched, the same nails appear on the wall of the temple abode, in the back side (since last 3 years, I havent gone there, I am writing from memory). I still remember the nails, and the acrylic blue colour painted over those nails...) I had, or rather say still have, my share of doubts about the validity and authenticity of the nails. I am sure, you have visited, Kerala, and would have observed closely the life of kerala - India in general. The mad rush of life, grossly insufficient infrastructure, a set of people amused by the new developments yet rooted deep down to the indian family values and social ethics. All these constraints, and the one life in hand, pressurize people. Some manage the life, some take recourse to sex, some to alcohol, some to religion, and those who cannot find a mental balancing factor stumbles upon ones life. You try driving on Indian roads, particularly kerala, particularly Kochi city roads - you will get to know what I am speaking of.... You go to a Kerala temple. Its much more serene than temples else where in the country. The mixed smell of gingelly oil, burning lamp, inane fragrance of the sandal sticks, the coldness creeping on to your body, your feet, your mind from the raw granite floors, spilled with water, with the glaring silence echoing all around. This surrounding, gives you a much needed "kick on your butt" to recharge you. Those who dont have any one to help, god is there to help. This place is famous as a last resort for people who are mentally ill. From my view point, rather than the 6 inch big nails, its the serene atmosphere - the considerate behaviour of the society inside the temple walls far away from the cut throat world that exists just outside the temple walls - that gives back, if at all, the mental balance. I had a time in my life, there was a time period, when i was unable to control myself, and things were going out of my control. I started visiting this temple (its 5 kms from my house) on a daily basis. I used to take a bus to the temple. Walk around the temple for some time, then walk back (5 kms) to home. The serene environment inside the temple, and the green environment outside, did cool me off, in about 3 months time. Some call it divine intervention. Its up to us to call it some thing else.....