Houseboat Heaven in Kerala's Backwaters

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Kettuvallum is the name given to houseboats used in the Kerala backwaters. With Kettu meaning 'to tie' and Vallum meaning 'boat' these are literally tied together boats. Made from Anjili wood (Jack fruit tree) the planks are tied together using coir ropes made from coconut fibre. Historically used to transport goods between the port of Cochin and Kuttanad, these 100 foot long boats could carry up to 30 tonnes of rice, spices and other items. The journey would take three days and the operators therefore needed quarters on the boat to live. These trading vessels became defunct as a means of transporting goods once the road and rail network provided much quicker ways of getting goods from A to B. Just like the iconic trading wherries in the Broads these Kettuvallum boats were given a new lease of life when they were converted to houseboats taking tourists around the beautiful backwaters of Kerala. Most modern designed Kettuvallum have bedrooms, a bathroom, a kitchen and a bio toilet. The sides of the houseboat are made from bamboo poles and the thatched, woven covering is made from split bamboo. They are really rather beautiful and you immediately relax into the slow pace of river life as you step on board.

Our group opted to upgrade to a large houseboat for our last day of our southern India tour and we are so glad we did as we settle into our favourite spots about the boat. Some clamber along the front bow and sit with their legs dangling down towards the water. Other prefer to sit inside in the shade on the cushioned seats along the side of the boat, looking out through the arched openings in the woven covering of the boat. We are given coconuts to drink from with a straw and enjoy this tasty sweetness as we soak up the backwater experience.

We pass people washing clothes at little gaps in the wall that holds up the riverbank, some are in the water washing or just enjoying a swim. We see people fishing, some with nets and some with rods. There are sacks of rice piled at the jetties waiting to be transported by boat to other parts of the system (so not all goods transportation has moved to road and rail). We see workmen sat on the top of a bridge that is being constructed, no hard hats, no harnesses, legs dangling over the drop. It makes me feel quite giddy to look at them. They wave and smile as we pass beneath them. We pass by a big yellow digger that is dredging material out of the river and placing it in a boat on the other side. The bird lovers in our group are spoiled by the many herons, cormorants, king fishers and egrets we see along the way. There are birds of prey circling above and terns swoop down to try and catch their dinner. We also pass a couple of temples where groups of women are chanting, the sound getting louder as we approach and then fading again as we pass by. We get out onto some open water, the equivalent of our Broads! There are other houseboats that pass us going in the opposite direction and the 90% Indian tourist traffic seems to be born out by the numbers we see. We wave to each other and take photos as we pass by. We see some larger, wide berthed wooden boats being quanted - so like the wherries when not under sail. It's absolutely idyllic, tranquil and we don't want our trip to end. This Broads girls feels right at home.

Sadly the houseboat trip has to end and we pull up against triple moored houseboats at the end point of our wonderful meander through the backwaters of Kerala. We have to take off our shoes and clamber through other people's boats to get to shore so have a good nose inside their houseboats to see what they are like. A group photo is organised with Muthu lining up many cameras on his arm. We give our wonderful drivers their tip and a huge cheer for the amazing job they did getting us about without a single bump. Amazing considering the road conditions and surrounding bad drivers they had to deal with.

When we arrive in Cochin there is just time to have one last meal together as a group and we get to try something new, a kati wrap. It's a bit like a tortilla wrap but with Indian style filling. Delicious. We are dropped at our starting hotel where we all begin to peel away on our various journeys, some going straight to the airport and back home, others on further trips via train around southern India, and a few of us like me taking a tuktuk to our hotels we've booked in Cochin.

Goodbye everyone and thanks for being such great travel companions. But biggest thanks of all to wonderful Muthu who has put up with our many questions and bad jokes and provided us with the bests insights into his country we could have ever hoped for. His humour and willingness to make things happen have made the trip a special one that will not be forgotten. G-Adventures you have an amazing ambassador for India in Selvamouthou Koumarasamy - give him a pay rise! 😊

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Comments

[fazrin]

nice article
Backwaters in Kerala is awesome