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Published: April 24th 2010
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The bus to Hampi is a sleeper and this is far more comfortable than the awful journey from Mumbai. After 18 hours on mountain roads we roll in to Hampi accompanied by an entourage of eager rickshaw drivers shouting up at the open windows promising cheap rides when we reach the town.
Hampi is a crumbling ruin of a time long forgot with temples and other ancient buildings lining the huge thoroughfare in to town. Like many places in India the modern populace occupy the ruins and today this is still a thriving community, though the main if only commerce is tourism. Across once grand temple entrances hang the usual nicknackery and a host of touts and beggars eagerly await the daily bus full of business.
We decide to stay on the other side of the river which is much quieter and more bohemian.
The first thing that strikes you as you enter Hampi is the rocks.. Defying all geological sense numbing the mind with impossible balancing acts lie huge boulders strewn about the landscape as if placed there by the gods. Hampi is a beautiful and bewitching place and I haven't the skill with words to adequately describe it.
We
officially stay at the Tee-Pee Guesthouse although we sleep every night on the rocks high above where the air is fresh and the stars are clear and bright. We meet many friends here and stay for 6 days, but if it wasn't for our flight out of India drawing ever closer we could have spent months roaming Hampi. We both feel this place is the highlight of our journey so far in India!
Journal excerpts:
Tom: "...
The Tee-Pee has an appealing vibe and consists of little more than a collection of huts and a covered area bedecked with mats, cushions, low tables and various hippy accoutrements. A large banner with PEACE in large letters hangs over the midspace between the chill area and our simple lodging. Lying about are didges, bongos and other ethnic instruments. This beautiful spot between huge boulders and a cliff wall feels like home and we love it here. The delicious food is served from the family kitchen by the charismatic Gopal...."
Ness: "...
We spend the first afternoon burning about on our 50cc taking in the jaw dropping surroundings, mountain upon mountain as far as the eye can see formed of giant boulders and rocks that leave you baffled. They look like they were placed here by giants!..."
Ness: "...
We explore a dusty side road winding in to the hills. Baking in the heat i pick some of the brightly coloured delicate flowers surrounding us. It seems so dry with the dirt tracks and rocks yet lush with coconut and banana trees amongst myriad wild flowers...."
Tom: "...
We have made many friends here. Two German girls Laura and Anja suggested we stay here and we are eternally grateful for that advice. Anja has a beautiful voice and shares the songs she has written on the road with her guitar she travels with. Zak and Holly are a young couple from England with a laid back attitude and i enjoy the nightly thrashings Zak gives me at chess...."
Tom: "...
The first night here i awoke to hundreds of bites covering my body and a bed full of vicious ants. From that night on we decide to follow Zak's advice and climb up on to the cliff top to sleep under the stars where mercifully there are no ants and fewer mosquitoes. Amongst the huge boulders we watch the sunrise each morning over the breathtaking vista of Hampi. Sleeping in a room or a bed become distant notions and we feel truly part of the landscape as we roam barefoot and free like the stray dogs that guard us as we sleep, or the monkeys that haunt the highest rocks...."
Ness: "...
Between hands of giants, cradled on sprawling mats, a ladder to the heavens, bathing amongst sun soaked rocks...."
Tom: "...
We explore further afield on our 50cc bikes and one night we find ourselves watching the sunset from the highest peak in the land (570 steep steps winding around the shear face) the Hanuman Temple. Up here i have an epiphany of the soul and part of my baggage is forever laid to rest on that lofty rock. I decide that here - the birthplace of Hanuman the monkey god - is the most beautiful place i have seen and possibly will ever see...."
Ness: "...
Expanse of freedom, flying before her eyes, placid lakes, paddling back in time, chai in peaceful climes, walk of faith, a setting sun, her souls rise...."
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