Desolation, Crowds, and searing heat

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This is out of order from our posts but i am fitting it in anyway. Between our last stint in Goa and our chill out time in Gokarna we traveled by train inland to the central plains of Karnataka to visit Hampi; the ancient, deserted, giant-boulder ridden capital of many empires long past.

From what everyone had told us, the theme of Hampi is desolation. There is a several square km area that is walled in on all sides and filled with temples, government facilities and elephant stables. The remains of the ruins range from mostly restored to crumbling wrecks but are all unique and worth a look. We were excited for the opportunity bask in some history after being beach bums for a while. What we didn't realize is that there were 2 festivals simultaneously occurring in Hampi the day we arrived and it was awash with tens of thousands of pilgrims and festival goers. It was unbelievably overwhelming to be caught up in surges of crowds and people drumming, dancing, and yelling all around us. The streets were all packed to the brim with people and even with our keen sense of direction it was incredibly difficult to orient ourselves because all we could see was heads of people in all directions as far as we could see.

Fortunately a young man walked up and asked if we were looking for a cheap room, which we were. He took us to his guest house and it happened to be the exact kind we were looking for and had been staying in most of our trip. To top it off it wasn't a hotel but just one of 2 rooms a family rents out that adjoin to their house so a nice calm setting amidst the complete chaos that lurked all around us. With our gear off our backs and a breath of calm we ventured out into the festivals to take in some real indian culture. For the record this means colours flying all directions from all around you, more noise than you thought you could hear at once and thousands of people staring and pointing at you because you look funny then laughing aloud while still pointing. The vendors at indian festivals are crazy. I saw more candy than i thought i could ever see at once piled 10 feet high and 40 feet wide on several shelves. You can buy any kind of jewelery in any colour or size for less than a dollar each and you can haggle your way to nearly free if you are good enough. The quality is very low however but scores of sellers run up to you with their arms loaded wrist to shoulder and start shoving bangles and braclets in your face.

India is an exercise in a persons ability to say no. I say no more than 200 times a day easily and that is not counting when asked for tea or coffee after every meal.

But back to hampi...

The festivals ended and the crowds cleared and THEN we got to see Hampi as it usually is... mostly empty. This does not mean it was quiet because india is never quiet if there are any people around but it was nice. We headed to the ruins of the ancient walled city. It was a day trip and we spent many hours going through all the ruins and temples. I could write for hours and hours about the serene beauty and articulate architecture and just how amazing the place is to be in... but it can't really give one an idea of the place. It is ancient and globally significant and that is all that matters.

The next day we set off to climb the Mathaganga mountain and visit the temple that is perched atop it. The mountain isn't really a mountain but moreso a very large pile of very large boulders. The whole area looks like a prehistoric flintstones-esque setting and this is the highest point in the area. Atop the mathaganga is a simple temple with an impossibly small lady who oversees it keeping watch. She guided us into the shrine and let us walk around the lead us out with barely saying a word and mostly just smiling. We left the temple but stayed atop the mountain for a while as you can see extremely far being that Hampi is in the central deccan plains.

We stayed a few more days just wandering some more and taking in the holiness that surrounded us. We're not hindu of course but when a place is special to millions of people it is not for no reason. Hampi is worthwhile for anyone to visit.. but only for so long. We needed to escape the 42 + heat and get back to the coast where the ocean breeze keeps you cool.

Signing off
Brian and Jenna

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Photos

Photo 2
wall of candy... this is only half of it

Photo 4
bathing in the river for Kumbh Mela

Photo 5
this parade just went back and forth many times... i think they just like following elephants

Photo 7
lotus mahal

Photo 8
ruins of ruins

Photo 12
monkeys at sunset

Photo 13
view from the top of mt. mathaganga

Photo 14
temple atop mt. mathaganga

Comments

[Mom]

Your blogs are fabulous...almost like being there. Well, the closest I'd like to get, anyway. Love you both. Keep having fun and stay safe. Love, Mom.

[Kenneth]

food riots
Apparently there are riots going on in a few places in India regarding increases in food prices, citing anger with government policies. Hope you are doing well. --Kenneth

[Dean]

Amazing
Neat to hear about but the thought of dealing with so much noise and so many people will give me nightmares tonight. Our trip to Holland fell through due to the Iceland volcano so we are up near Algonquin and the trail was crowded yesterday. We saw at least 10 other people and listened to birds most of the afternoon. Cheers, Dean