The last stop of the journey was Bylakuppe, a Tibetan settlement “camp” consisting of several villages and a monastery with at least 5,000 monks. This is the largest Tibetan settlement (total population 15,000) outside the homeland, settled since the late 1960s. India gave the land to the Tibetans; if you want to stay the night, you have to get documentary permission from the Tibetan Government in Exile. We just went for a couple of hours to see the amazing temples, shop around a bit, and eat (of course). It was a bit of a random immersion experience, between the Chinese food, Chinese trinkets for sale, young monks playing hackey-sack, singing or music or chanting practice, some western dread-locked hippies hanging around in seeming-meditation, and the ubiquitous Indian auto-rickshaw drivers calling "Rickshaw, Madam?" At what appeared to
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