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Published: October 20th 2012
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The previous day was exciting and eventful. We rode our bikes on the SriNagar Leh highway, crossed the Magnetic Hill, visited the Patthar Sahab Gurudwara (one constructed and maintained by the Army), the Sangam (where the Indus and Zanskar rivers meet); rode back to Leh and then took the Leh Manali highway and visited the Hemis monastery. Of course, earlier in the day we took the wrong turn and headed for a military camp; we were stopped at the entry gate itself and asked to return back.
But when one is on a trip, where so much happens at the same time, one doesn't really get time to think about everything.
We left around an hour before noon passing by small villages on the outskirts of Leh city. Children smiled and waved at us and we waved back. There were many bikers like us on the road; some were just rushing by, while others were taking it slowly.
Once we crossed the military check post at South Pullu, the condition of the road started to deteriorate. This made the ascent to Khardung La all the more memorable.
I got a special feeling when I was at Khardung
La. I was standing on the world's highest motorable road, at 18380 feet. The oxygen level was less and we were warned not to exert ourselves. There was a small cafe where had some hot noodles.
We continued our journey, towards the next check post at North Pullu, on a road that had got worse. The road had stones at different spots, was watery and muddy too; making the ride all the more challenging.
Once at the check post, we submitted our papers and had lunch at a cafe. After resting for a while, we continued.
The road beyond North Pullu was in good condition. We passed by Khardung village where the view was magnificent. There was vegetation, with snow capped mountains in the background. The entire view looked more like a painting. I wanted to enjoy my ride and hence I did not rush. With no traffic in front of me and none behind me, I felt like the king of the world.
The same road was going to take me to Khalsar, from where the road splits into two and forms the two wings of the Nubra valley. I was supposed to take the
road to the left, towards Diskit, where, I was told, there were going to be several options for accommodation.
However, on the way, I had a small mishap with my bike. I wasn't injured, but was having troubles in getting my bike, back up. I was all alone with a phone that had no signal. I looked as far as I could, but could not see anything with life in it, for miles together. The entire place had developed an eerie kind of an ambience. I looked at the mountains and felt that they were looking back at me.
I spent a few minutes struggling with my bike, before I heard the sound of a vehicle. I signaled for help, when I saw that it was an army truck. The jawan behind the wheel, got down and helped me with my bike. After ensuring that everything was okay, they left and I too continued with my ride.
I met the guys and together we crossed Khalsar and entered Diskit. After having been used to seeing the moonscape scenery of Ladakh, the view of Nubra valley came as a refreshing break. We checked into a guest house.
Later that evening, we got out to have dinner. After having lived in a city for a few years, where people stay out till late in the night; the market place at Diskit came a surprise for me. There were no people on the road and almost all the shops were closed. As there were no street lamps, all we had was the moonlight. We were lucky to find a cafeteria at the far end of the market that was still open.
The next day we woke up at dawn and made our way to the Diskit monastery. We reached the main shrine and were able to see the monks at their early morning prayers. One of them offered us butter tea.
Later on we had our breakfast and proceeded towards Hunder, 10kms from Diskit and finally got to witness the changing topography that Nubra is famous for. While we could find a river at Khalsar, and plants towards Diskit; Hunder had a desert. We got to see Bactrian camels, which I was told, can only be found in Nubra. It was incredible to have mountains, a waterbody, vegetation and a desert; all within a span of a
few kilometres.
After spending some more time at Nubra, we headed back to Leh.
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P Balachandran
non-member comment
LEH TO NUBRA VALLEY
Your descriptions are vivid, absorbing and even poetic like the way you had explaind the situation when you couldn't lift your bike and no one around, you looked at the sky and the sky lookd back at you. That was wonderful, indeed! We are thankful to the ARMY for their services to the nation and the 'much wanted service' to you when you needed them. In life nothing comes without a toil. And, as I said in my earlier response, to take up such an adventurous venture on your part is praiseworthy