Hampta Pass with Lake Chandratal

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Peggy and I completed the 4-day Hampta Pass trek (and then another day for the Lake Chandratal extension, all with Himalayan Trails. The total cost, including transport, guide, tents and sleeping bags, mules to carry the gear, entrance fees, 3 cooks, and food, was just under $200 per person. There were four others in our group - a British couple and two Indian women.

I assume most come to this blog to either browse photos or to get travel information, so I'll spare everyone an exhaustive narrative. Rather than going through our itinerary day by day, which can be found on any tour company's website, here are 10 observations and opinions about the Hampta Pass trek that we couldn't find information about before our tripa

Scenery

The alpine scenery is impressive and some of the peaks and rock formations are unique and memorable. We passed dozens of 100-meter waterfalls, and hundreds of sheep, goats, and cattle graze in the valleys. The water is pristine and potable if you get it right out of the cliffs. The drive back from the far side of the pass is probably even more scenic, but is ruined by the roads.

Food

On other treks, I've found myself hungry due to scant lunches and rice and bean dinners that run out quickly when a group of hungry backpackers get to it. But if you go with Himalayan Trails, you certainly won't need to take any extra food and will probably even gain weight, despite all the walking. In addition to so many delicious Indian and Tibetan dishes (biryani, dal, momos, etc.), we had packed lunches with sandwiches every day; plenty of soups, popcorn, and chai tea when we got to the cold camps; complete breakfasts with cereal, eggs, bread and lots of fruit; paratha, chapati, and dosa pancakes made from scratch; and even pizza and a chocolate cake on the last night. It was incredible that they could prepare all that at 4,000-meter-high camps.

Distances

A fit and avid hiker will find this trek to be pretty easy. The time estimates could be cut in half and the whole hike could easily be completed in two nights, or even one. That being said, the extra time to acclimatize is part of what made it easy.

Overcrowding

Our guide said this is probably the most popular multi-day trek in India. I've never seen anything like it. The campsite areas are pretty expansive, but still probably had 500+ people, plus all the pack animals, resembling an American Civil War reenactment more than it did a nature-immersing experience. Some of the tour operators (like ours) dug latrines and put tents around them, but other groups of 40-50... I don't even want to know. They looked pretty guilty when I saw them in the mornings. I was thankful that our walk was one of the first days to safely cross the pass in this season.

If you're thinking of walking this trek without a tour company, I recommend choosing somewhere else less crowded. Every time you catch up to a group of 50-ish students, you have to pass them one by one, and some sections - hills especially - have long lines, step-in-step.

Moon Lake

There is no good reason to add the Lake Chandratal extension of the trip unless you've never seen a pretty blue lake, or if you're a masochist who would enjoy an extra 8-10 hours riding on bumpy death roads with hairpin switchbacks and sheer cliffs, and then sleeping again at 4,100 meters in an exposed and barren valley a few km from the lake. We had thought the lake was close by the end of the Hampta Pass trek; otherwise, we never would have agreed to it. Lost in cultural translation.

Gear: Boots and Clothes

It's a rocky and technical hike. I don't like boots, but I was happy I had them. Plenty of morons were hiking in flip flops, so it can be done, but your feet wouldn't be happy, especially walking across the short, sloped snow fields near the pass. It was also nice to have a durable pair of sandals for the frigid stream crossings as well.

In June, it was pretty cold at night - below freezing at our last camp. The sleeping bags were warm and the tents were waterproof, but to be comfortable, you'll need to take basic winter clothes- a hat, water-resistant gloves, a down jacket, wool socks, etc. It's also a good idea to take all these things in your daypack for the day of the pass as well.

Pack Animals

It's convenient to have them carrying most of the gear, but they destroy the trails and meadows. I regretted not carrying my full pack, especially after seeing the horse man throw fist-sized rocks at the mules and knee them in the stomach in order to get them to take direction. Some of the hiking routes only allow porters, but then you just have some really poor people carrying all your stuff.

Heights

I'm afraid of walking along sheer cliffs, but there was none of that on this trek. The roads are a different beast, though. The road to Lake Chandratal was terrifying and even the way back from Hampta Pass was harrowing, as our driver passed every vehicle at any time, even along cliff edges or blind turns. I think he set Manali's anti-beeping campaign back 15 years on this trip alone.

Altitude

The pass is at 4,300 meters, so a headache can be expected. Our guide said most people don't need to take Diomox for this trek.

Season

We crossed the pass on one of the first days of the year (June 15) where you don't need equipment and special guidance. When the sun was out, I walked in shorts and a T-shirt. But it rained fairly often and was snowing at the pass. The monsoon usually hits the area around July 15, so there's a fairly short window this time of year.

There are more photos below.

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Photos

Meal Prep
Dinner preparations were performances unto themselves. Aju, our guide (far left), is making chapati. The head cook is to his left, and then his assistants. I asked why these incredible chefs choose to brave the elements and cook in these conditions, and Aju answered that it is their passion.

Miserable at Lake Chandratal
4 hours drive each way for this? Not pictured: Indian tourists with their feet in or sitting in the water, literally squealing in pleasure.

Tasty Water
This is the only time I'll drink unfiltered water in India.

Comments

[D MJ Binkley]

Great blog.
You've included all the essentials for hiking this area. Thanks for the commentary.