After a month of peace and quiet, of cafes and momos, of Buddhism and English tutoring, it was time to leave McLoed Ganj and re-enter the "real India." We hopped our first bus down to the bigger town of Daramshala from McLeod and began our epic journey. In the past 48 hours we have taken 5 buses, 4 trains and 2 auto rickshaws (like 3 wheeled scooters), all of which, disregarding the rickshaws, were local means of transportation and devoid of any westerners except for ourselves. We took a second bus from Daramshala to Kangra and caught a rickshaw to the train station. We were dropped off at a no-name town and told to go down the street even too small for our rickshaw to the station. Down the road, over a fairly sturdy pedestrian suspension
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