Little Lhasa

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So Friday was the Big Cheese's (HH Dalai Lama) birthday, and wasn't Mcleod absolutely rammed for it! The day started with traditional Tibetan cultural dances at the temple complex by student groups, TIPA (Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts) and lots of groups of very cute and small children from tibetan schools. I managed to senak into a bit of space just behind the seated VIP area so I had a good view... until the boring speeches finished when everyone stood up to watch the show - so I ended up climbing wherever possible to get a decent view just like everyone else! Unfortunately His Holiness didn't come to the celebrations himself even though his house is just opposite the temple, but not because he's a lazy bastard - in Buddhism birthdays aren't usually celebrated as it is a party for the 'impermanent ego' (my monks weren't allowed to go), but the people celebrated for his holiness instead!

The last couple of days there have been teachings by the Dalai Lama following his birthday, I've been to a couple. This time, however, I've been much better prepared than in March; fully equipped with a pillow (smuggled out of the guest house) and a functioning radio I have not only understood most of what's going obn but my arse is also far less bruised.

The rest of my time here has been spent checking out all the cafes I haven't visited before. A real gem I've found is a Japanese restaurant called Lung Ta; not only is the food good, but it's not-for-profit, donating all proceeds to the charity next door for the rehabilitation of ex-political prisoners who have escaped from China - you can also help oput with one-hour converstaion classes with them every night before dinner if you want. Plus all the staff are super friendly. There's another cool place called Khana Nirvana which has events most nights of the week ranging from open mike nights to talks by ex-political prisoners or videos on the Tibet situation. It's only by living here for a while that one can really realise the extent of the activity and feeling that lies behind the tourist front of Mcleod Ganj, and it's quite fascinating with some great free publications such as the Annual Human Rights Report by the governement-in-exile, among others, available.

The atmosphere of the last few days has been great thanks to the birthday and teachings. Mcleod's been really busy, but not just with tourists, exiled tibetans from all over India have come and there's been a real excitement, friendliness and overall happiness in the air. The dances have been great for me to see but they also have meant a lot to the Tibetans who are spread over India and even ore to those recently arrived from Tibet. One elderly woman near Bhaarat in the crowd was crying during the dances, when he enquired why he was told that she'd just come from Tibet and had never seen a dance before as the Chinese have banned such Tibetan cultural displays. It means even more to them to see His Holiness as the Chinese government virtually deny his existence (should you google 'dalai lama' inside China 'no matches' will show up!).

Anywho, I've had a really relaxing time and shall be on the bus to Delhi tomorrow night in order to catch a train to Udaipur on Tuesday evening fresh for the start of my Rajasthan travels!

(In case you're wondering 'Little Lhasa' is the nickname for Mcleod Ganj, and it really felt like a mini-Tibetan capital this weekend!)

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