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Published: August 29th 2008
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We have been in Manali for a couple of days now, and were pleased to find out that its a really great place. I had heard mixed reviews from other travelers I had met on the road, some saying I would want to stay for a week or more, and others saying I should just use it as a transport station onward to Ladakh. People come to India with all sorts of different expectations though, and as a result you can always find a group of people that love a certain place, while others will hate it. Myself, I have found that having little to no expectations works best over here, as nothing ever seems to turn out as you had imagined it. In fact, nothing is usually in the same realm as you imagine it over here. Books, and other travelers pictures and words never amount to the same impressions and points of view I enter, or leave any of these Indian cities with. In a lot of ways I have shared this place with so many other people. People that I have met here while traveling, all the hospitable Indians that have helped me along the way so far,
my family and girlfriend at home through phone calls, and everyone else that takes the time to read these journal posts. The truth of it is though, its a very personal experience over here. I am doing my best to put this country into words, and pictures for all of you, but I am telling you again its just not possible. You guys get to see this place through the pin hole sized window that my words and pictures create (I wish I was better at it, and could make a better window), but the big picture that India hits you with, visually, audibly, and emotionally is huge. Its like nothing I never imagined I would experience, and so far Manali is a shining example of some of the things I hoped I might find over here in India. The stuff you dont get to see, or I try not to talk about too much is just how difficult it is to travel over here. Its really not the joyous, carefree holiday those of you that have never done this sort of thing might expect it to be. I have found traveling here to be quite a bit of hard
work, and nothing seems to come easily over here. Its incredibly rewarding though at the same time and these last few days have really made me glad I chose this country to travel in.
As I mentioned in my previous journal post, Shimla is a near vertical city, and after climbing all those stairs, and taking the bus ride from hell yesterday didnt amount to much. Mattius and I both sat on our balconies, wrote in our journals, read our books, and ordered room service. We didnt even venture outside the hotel. It wasnt a was not; however, a wasted day. The pace of everything had caught up to the both of us and a day of rest was just what was needed. The view from the hotel is nothing short of amazing, and lounging around in the shadow of the Himalaya's was just what both of us needed to recharge for the busy days ahead.
Today was a much more productive day though. We both got up early and got a head start on our exploration of Manali. The city is divided into three sections being Manali (New Manali), Old Manali, and Visheesht. Our hotel is about
three kilometers up river from the center of the new town of Manali in the quiet temple town of Visheesht. After an early breakfast we managed to find ourselves a rickshaw driver to take us into town where we started exploring. The first stop on our list was a protected forest where we decided to go for a hike. After carefully running the gauntlet of touts and shoeshine boys in town we made the trek to the forest, only to find out we had some extra company. A stray dog (of which there must be millions in India) had attached itself to us and wanted to go for a hike as well. We spent about three hours hiking around the forest and exploring the river, and the dog followed us the whole time. As a side note, a lot of these stray dogs in India are really, really nice dogs as you can see from the pictures. A lot of them are not so nice, especially in the bigger cities. This one was great though! The dog walked a few steps behind us the whole time, and whenever we stopped for a rest the dog curled up and rested as
well. Whenever we started up again it would wait until we got a few steps away from her before she would get up and follow once again, always staying about ten steps behind us. It never left our side the whole time we were in the forest or down by the river, and despite our intentions to buy her a samosa when we got back to town, the minute we left the trees the dog dissapeared.
After hiking through the forest we explored Old Manali where we checked out a few temples, followed by a tasty late afternoon lunch at a Tibetan resturaunt. I have had Tibetan food a few times since coming here, and I have to say, its really, really good. Kashmiri food is also high on my list of favorites. Mattius and I both commented on the fact that neither of us have ever been served anything we didnt enjoy eating since we arrived here. Its a miracle actually since 90% of the time neither of us have the slightest idea of what we are ordering. The basics are down for me now regarding food, but usually the type of sauce or spices things come with
are a general mystery.
It started to rain really hard in the late afternoon so we killed the time in the Tibetan resturaunt drinking some serious apple ciders, and hanging out with a couple of Israeli girls we met there. We spent the rest of the afternoon and evening with the two of them, drinking tea and exploring the rest of the little town of Visheesht where Mattius and I are staying. I also did the ridiculously cliched touristy activity of getting my photograph taken with a snake charmer and can now permanently cross it off my list.
Tomorrow morning is going to be a really early day as well as Mattius and I are planning to check out and leave early for the little town an hour south of here called Nagar. We will be checking into the Nagar castle where we will stay for a night and explore before coming back here to Manali and booking our transportation to Leh. Should be another adventure as I have always wanted to stay in a castle.
Hope everyone at home is well!
P.S. I need to correct a mistake regarding my previous post. The road to
Leh is only the second highest in the world, not the highest. It reaches a mere 5300 meters at its highest point, and I am going to look under the hood of the jeep we book to see if its indeed turbocharged in order to properly run at that altitude.
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