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Published: September 18th 2013
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Jalorie Pass
Snow-capped Himali peaks in distance Ragupur Fort – Jalori Pass, Banjar Valley And the vision that was planted in my brain
Still remains
Within the sound of silence “I'll wake you up early if the sky is clear” was my parting message to the two guys staying in the next cottage. I had suggested that getting up to Jalori Pass (3,223 m above sea level) on a clear morning would be spectacular for views of the Himalayas in the distance. But when I knocked on their door at 5.30am the response from somewhere in the dark room was not positive. “We might come up later” said one.
So I set off alone – naturally!
On the climb out of the valley, it was fresh and crisp on Gladys (my Enfield wonder bike) and I had to pull my beanie down over my ears. When I reached the pass I was the first arrival and two of the half dozen
chai shops were just opening to ready themselves for the inevitable daily traffic through the pass stopping for a
chai and/or meals. My fingers were frozen
despite wearing gloves, and I entered Dola Baba's
chai shop to sit beside his just lit fire to warm my hands. Of course I ordered a
chai.
The distant mountains were not as clear as I had hoped but still inspiring – glimpses of snow capped peaks.
In a moment of spontaneity (it had not been my intention) I decided to walk to Ragupur Fort – a ruin on top of a hill about 45 minutes from the pass. I had set off to visit this place in March 2009 and gotten lost and ended up in Ani for the night (much to the distress of Rana the guest house owner who was about to call the police when I arrived back by the midday bus the next day). This time I was determined to find the fort and not be fooled by the many paths leading off from the small lake and grass areas that the path opened onto along the way.
The colours at this time – it was only 7.30am - were amazing in the early morning sunlight. I stopped now and again for a little improvisation on my tin whistle. The acoustics were
Ragupur Fort
My friend Rana jokingly suggests we go up one night and bomb the ugly white buildings that have been erected in this place. magical with an echo across the valleys.
I finally approached the last rise to the fort. It was a spectacular place with 360 vistas of the surrounding hills, mountains and valleys. The soft murmuring of the breeze sent me into a meditative state.
Ragupur Fort is around 1,500 years old and was built as a defensive garrison by the then king of Kullu region Ragupur Singh. He was often at war with the neighbouring Mandi district king, and the fort changed hands between these two a number of times before the British eventually decommissioned the place. While a ruin now, it has had some of its stonework renovated and is quite impressive given the location.
There were great expanses of grass on the top of the hill surrounding the fort. I ran down one slope, arms out, singing lines from 'The Sound of Music' as you do. Billy Connolly would have been proud.
There were hawks gliding on the empty sky.
When I got back to the pass, I had another
chai at Dola Baba's, then started my descent back to Jibhi. I came across a group of guys from Delhi on rented Enfields –
one had broken his clutch cable and they didn't have a pair of pliers (I did). So for once I was the one assisting Indians in a spot of bother. “God send” said one as I left.
Passing through Gyagi on the way back to Jibhi, I stopped in at Layku Ram's
darba for stuffed
paratha breakfast and
chai.
I am back home by 11 and feeling like its been a full day.
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Carolina
non-member comment
It seems magic in your writings. I know it could be. I'm happy you are enjoying your days back in Jibhi. Say hi to everyone! Love ya! xx