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Published: September 18th 2017
Junk & Hong Kong Skyline At Night
Perhaps about as Hong Kong a sight as you can get!Making my way to Shenzhen, I had one last ride through the magnificent scenery of
Yangshuo. On board the bus, I couldn't help but feel like I missed some even better photo opportunities than the ones I had, by not exploring a bit more. Like
Zhangjiajie, I'm a little disappointed that the ones I have taken don't quite do the place justice. But perhaps no photo (apart from the ones on postcards) can ever do justice to what I saw.
As we stopped for a lunch break, I was reminded that almost all the food I have had in China has been very oily. I feel like I have a permanent frog in my throat as a result. Perhaps that is why the men here are always hoiking!
As we approach Shenzhen, I notice that almost the entire area from Guangzhou to Shenzhen is built up. As well as there being seemingly hundreds of toll gates, highway overpasses were zigzagging all over the show. I personally love cities and feel in my element in them, but even the the most seasoned city slicker can feel a bit overwhelmed when arriving in a huge, new city - especially a city
Hong Kong Skyline By Night
Always a captivating view. slicker who has spent the last couple of weeks in China's countryside. For the next couple of months, most of my travelling will be within big cities!
I had a rather irritatingly late arrival into Shenzhen and because the hostel I had booked gives away your bed if you arrive after 6pm, I was also a little worried. It's a stupid check-in policy because surely a sizeable number of guests are going to arrive after 6pm.
Part of the reason I was late was because for the first time in my travels, I had to do a urine test! Our bus was pulled over to a police checkpoint just after one of the toll gates and all the young men on-board were taken into a facility and had to pee into a cup. Just as well, as I needed a wee anyway. My sample was clear though I'm not sure what they were looking for.
On arrival in Shenzhen I then had a mission to complete just to withdraw cash; there were plenty of banks around but they all had CDMs (cash deposit machines) rather than ATMs and then it was another mission trying to find a place still
View From Victoria Peak
Still decent, despite the low hanging clouds and rain. selling food at that hour.
Shenzhen is one of China's wealthiest cities and this is reflected in the fact that even on the 'outskirts' of it, there are clean, modern footpaths, a flash shopping mall and plenty of bright lights. The city centre where I was staying was where all the banks lived (but no ATMs) and was filled with glass skyscrapers.
This futurism was also reflected at my hotel, which was a new experience. I have stayed in capsule-like accommodation before but the ones here were completely self-contained pods that looked like cryogenic chambers for trips across the universe. Inside you have your own entertainment system, USB ports, power sockets, a multitude of different lights, a safe, temperature control, a mirror and a electronically locked sliding door.
Despite the wealthy pretensions however, Shenzhen actually has an arty and cultural reputation and even a big indie music scene. Perhaps this is influenced a bit by the freedoms enjoyed just over the border in Hong Kong. This might also be why I have hardly been stared at here; a place used to seeing people who are a bit different.
Nowhere is the 'scene' more reflected than at OCT-LOFT, Shenzhen's
Mong Kok
The lively streets of Mong Kok. I've never seen so many neon signboards in one place before. main sight and hipster zone. Now when I think of hipster zones, I always think of the gritty warehouse spaces that define Shoreditch in London. Well, Shenzhen's 'Shoreditch' is similar; it is collection of galleries, studios and "spaces" interspersed with trendy cafes, bars, restaurants and boutique shops, all situated in a modern, revamped complex that was once made up of Communist-era factories and warehouses. There is even one establishment that is all of the above things at once!
There were a couple of interesting exhibitions on, including a documentary about a group of friends, all with different backgrounds from around the world, all describing their experiences living in Shenzhen. I did find it a little strange and ironic; Communism is almost synonymous with the censure of expression and the ruling Communist Party have history - some extremely recent - with the silencing of Chinese artists. I found myself asking the question of how an artist in China can truly express themselves without being fully informed - when their own government restricts what they are allowed to know. One might also say however, that such restrictions may produce a unique style or form of expression that can be analysed and appreciated.
OCT-LOFT
An exhibition at Shenzhen's renown art complex, which is set amongst a cluster of old Communist-era factories and warehouses. There is still much to work with even without knowing everything that is happening outside of China; and you can express anything you want in China as long as you're not criticising the government!
As mentioned earlier, Shenzhen is one of China's wealthiest cities and I decided to try and found out why with a visit to the Shenzhen Museum. Housed in a huge, gleaming building that also houses the local government headquarters, the free museum was actually pretty interesting and well set up, clearly taking you through Shenzhen's history from the prehistoric Maba people through to the making of today's modern metropolis. Shenzhen's proximity to British-held Hong Kong ensured that it had a bit of a head start in terms of discovering Western systems and technologies but it was the establishment of Shenzhen as a Special Economic Zone in 1980 that really set the wheels in motion.
I discussed in a previous blog entry about China's pace of development but it all started in Shenzhen and there is a whole floor of the museum dedicated to telling the story and explaining how it wasn't just the building of infrastructure and the opening up to trade with the rest
Shenzhen Government Building
This monstrosity also houses the Shenzhen Museum. of the world that had to be organised, but the writing up of all the laws and legislation required to turn China's closed Communist economy into an open capitalist one.
There was also a very interesting exhibition on Cantonese and Hakka folk culture - the cultures from which my family originated - and it was really interesting to see how so many of the traditions that I know, and that the world knows, comes from this little corner of China. Traditions such as lion dancing and the lantern festival. It was also interesting to learn about other more less known traditions such as Cantonese opera and summer hat dancing.
The weather has been really changeable in the last week or so and having gone inside the museum with the sun blazing away, I came out into a rather violent storm.
"I guess I should go to Hong Kong now," I thought.
What a cool thought to have - to think that on a whim, with the sun setting, that it's about time to pop over to Hong Kong before it gets dark. It's not everyday you get a thought like that!
You can get to Hong Kong via the
HSBC Building
This iconic building was once the world's most expensive. metro - so it is like going to another country on
the tube except that you have to go through immigration at the interchange. I had another irritating arrival though as my card couldn't withdraw any money at the border ATMs and I had to change some yuan for Hong Kong dollars; those currency places always rip you off.
I was relieved to immediately experience some 'home comforts' after a month in China; being able to speak English, seeing signs and menus in English, hearing Cantonese (my dad's side of the family speak Cantonese and I heard it a lot growing up), seeing 7-Elevens again and being able to withdraw money from an HSBC ATM - my bank - which started business here all those years ago. It's always the little things.
I was warned that Hong Kong accommodation is inevitably cramp but I was still shocked when I arrived at my hostel. The ensuite bathroom was tiny, just like the one
on the Viking Star! There were four beds in what would normally be a single shoebox room, which I was sharing with two cheerful Nigerians. It was the cheapest place I could find in space-scarce Hong Kong so perhaps
Bruce Lee
This statue of HK's famous prodigal son is part of the Garden Of Stars, which also honours stars such as Chow Yun Fat, Jackie Chan, Michelle Yeoh and Jet Li. it was inevitable that I'd be tripping over my dorm mates and showering over the toilet;
at least it wasn't a squat toilet this time I suppose.
The hostel was located in Mong Kok which is a very lively area full of shopping opportunities whether that be shopping malls or brand retail shops, mostly of the sports shoe variety. The pace is hectic though; everyone is in a hurry and everyone has to be somewhere, there is no time for pleasantries. It reminded me of
when I went back to London for the first time after I had left and saw how much of a rush everyone was in over there. Once again, I found that no-one really had time for a slow-walking tourist on a Mong Kok meander.
That evening I had yet another reunion on this trip; this time it was with Emily, a Hong Kong native and old classmate of mine from
my Barcelona days. She kindly took me out for dinner where we had the battered Hong Kong soft shell crab and battered lemongrass fried pork curry which were both absolutely delicious. The best meal I have had in a while to be perfectly honest.
"You look much thinner than last time," she remarks.
That's what budget backpacking and regularly skipping meals for two years does to
Temple Street
Home of the famous street market of the same name. ya!
We had a lovely evening in the end as we strolled through Mong Kok, Yau Ma Tei and the Temple Street Market (where I finally replaced my
Moldovan wallet) while we caught up on each other's lives, our short-to-medium term ambitions and the state of world politics.
I was interested to know how Chinese rule was affecting everyday life here in Hong Kong and Emily thinks that as long as you don't follow the news, nothing would seem any different. She bristled however at the fact that Hong Kongers had to elect a chief executive from a pool of candidates chosen by Beijing, which sparked the "Umbrella Revolution" of three years ago. It was an enjoyable catch-up and it was really nice to be able to have a decent conversation with someone after being alone for so much of the last month.
And like London buses, having been alone since leaving Peppe in
Sapa, along came two reunions at once. Having met up with Emily, I would now spend the rest of my time in Hong Kong with my mum! Teaching in Kuala Lumpur, her school holidays had coincided handily with my visits to
Yangon,
Bagan and
Bangkok and
Chungking Mansions
A snapshot of this cramped but colourful rabbit warren of shops, eateries, guesthouses and foreign exchange shops manned by mostly immigrant hustlers. had now coincided with my time in Hong Kong.
This necessitated moving out of my hostel to a hotel, but if I thought I was going to get more space, I was sadly mistaken. This room was even smaller and we'd be in each other's way and showering over the toilet again. That's what you get for the cheapest rates in Hong Kong.
You also get a location in the notorious Chungking Mansions - a ropey mansion block full of cheap flats. Our hotel was essentially one flat and it has thankfully been recently refurbished meaning it wasn't the dirty nightmare you might expect to see inside Chungking Mansions. The lobby - described as a dodgy jungle full of Indian hustlers by Booking.com reviewers - did make me feel like I was back in India with the curry smells, hotel hustlers and small-time convenience and electronic stores. It was far from a jungle however and was fine. It did seem incongruous however, to have luxury watch shop Longines right opposite Chungking Mansions, with the flash surrounding area also home to shops such as Ralph Lauren and Longchamps.
On our first night we went to experience an original Cantonese
Mum & I
Enjoying a spot of dim sum at Tim Ho Wan. / Hong Kong tradition;
dim sum!
Almost everyone recommends the Michelin star Tim Ho Wan for amazing dim sum and it did not disappoint. The baked pork buns are their speciality, which I haven't had before but were on point. Other highlights were the
chee chong fun and an amazing goji berry jelly for dessert. I've eaten well here so far.
If I thought that I was familiar with the culture in mainland China, then I found that I was even more familiar with the culture here. I knew a lot of people from here when growing up and even my grandparents lived here for a while so it is surprising that this is the first time I have visited.
It is definitely a unique place with Hong Kong having adopted capitalism so long ago. The old bright lights and old tall buildings create a special atmosphere more akin to South East Asia than China, whose bright lights and tall buildings have come much later. It is a sight of British colonialism in an Oriental background that is perhaps only comparable to Singapore and Malaysia.
In many ways, Hong Kong has turned out to be a lot like
Star Ferry
An iconic, scenic and cheap way to get across the harbour. what I thought it would be. Very plush malls and lots of high-end shops and eateries. The Central area reminded me of The City and Canary Wharf in London.
But there was something cool about seeing and doing iconic things like crossing Victoria Harbour (which isn't as wide as I thought it was and is more akin to a wide river crossing) on the Star Ferry and seeing the Hong Kong Island skyline lit up at night, particularly the Bank Of China Building. Like my mum said, it was awesome to see stuff that you have heard so much about.
Our trip up to Victoria Peak was a bit frustrating with rain and a looming typhoon (which never fully came to pass, thankfully) cutting short our hike around the top and clouds obscuring our view of the harbour and Kowloon below. We went up there on the Peak Tram, which reached some absurd angles. The rattling, wooden, old-fashioned carriage dates back to the 1980s.
Back in town, the interconnecting bridges and super-clean bathrooms in the plush shopping malls made getting around Central nice and comfortable. All the luxury in front of me had me pining for more money and the
Soho
Grungy yet full of chic, Western style bars and eateries. Much like its namesake neighbourhoods in London and New York. life of relative luxury I used to live, like when I travelled on business and stayed at fancy hotels where you were made to feel important.
The Soho area is much like its namesake neighbourhoods in London and New York, full of galleries, bars and chic restaurants; the 'Western' part of town where I imagine I would work and spend a lot of time hanging out if I was living in Hong Kong. Almost all the signs were in English here and indeed there are a few more white faces down this way. The hilly-ness, the look of the streets and the age of the buildings made it feel like I was back walking through downtown Auckland. In fact, it reminded me of Auckland, Wellington and London at the same time.
I have been disappointed with Lonely Planet's guide to Hong Kong however; it has talked up and overrated many things, such as the Man Mo Temple. But I guess it was talking to a traveller who has already seen his fair share of amazing temples on the mainland.
Its food recommendations have been on point though as we had the best beef brisket noodles we've ever had at
St John's Cathedral
One of the few landmark colonial buildings still standing in Hong Kong. a place called Kau Kee, with rude, no-nonsense wait staff and all. People haven't been the nicest here in Hong Kong but I can deal with it having been to India, Eastern Europe and China. Another culinary highlight that wasn't provided by Lonely Planet was the sampling of
kong shui. A very Cantonese thing, it is literally translated as "sweet water" and are basically soupy desserts of goodness. I had the water chestnut, egg and sago 'cold soup'; it was nice and though I've had things like this before, I think I prefer Western desserts.
Congee (
chok in Cantonese) or rice porridge, was also tried since it is also a Cantonese staple. Ours came with fish and ginger but needed a bit of soy sauce and white pepper to give it some flavour, meaning that it probably wasn't the best.
The food scene has been incredible, which perhaps explains why I was seemingly hungry the whole time I was there.
It is so fucking expensive here though. It was as if I was back in London. By the end I was a bit fed up of trying to find reasonably priced places to eat. I was also a little
Landmark Atrium Mall
One of many plush malls in the Central area. embarrassed I couldn't treat Mum a bit more.
It was a hectic few days and if I'm being completely honest, I was also sick to death of organising logistics. Nice as I think it would've been, I was too lazy to bother visiting the south side of Hong Kong Island which I perhaps would've done if I had more energy, like say, at the start of my trip. Almost everything was annoying me at this stage.
Perhaps this was the point where I realised I was finally over this. But I only have two and a half months to go and I'll have more regrets about not finishing what I started than regrets about traipsing through these last two and a half months.
We probably stayed a night and a day too long as other than spending money eating and shopping, the only other sights and activities on offer were too far away for us to be bothered venturing out to. We killed some time in the 80s style Hong Kong Park which was nice and peaceful - a respite from the chaos outside it - and had its cool bits too, including a waterfall and an aviary.
Pedestrian Bridge
Probably a necessity given the foot traffic but these pedestrian bridges are very handy in connecting all the different malls and hotels in the Central area. To me, Hong Kong seems to be a place to experience rather than a place to visit as a tourist expecting to do things - there just isn't that much worth doing unless you're keen to venture to the south of Hong Kong Island or go exploring and hiking in the New Territories. Otherwise I would liken Hong Kong to somewhere like
Melbourne, where you really need to spend some time and explore its nooks and crannies to really get the most out of it.
If I was offered a secondment in Hong Kong however, I'd probably take it; or a high-paying temporary job. I feel like I could definitely live here although I'd probably choose to live elsewhere.
Hong Kong is a very hectic, cosmopolitan place with plenty of choices. It's very flash in parts and it was cool seeing and visiting all these iconic places. It was nice going somewhere a little more Westernised for a change too, particularly for me.
And it was as always, good to have my mum with me, particularly here where she could read Chinese and explain things to me that I otherwise wouldn't have got.
But it was now time to
Hong Kong CBD
A snapshot of Hong Kong's glassy financial district. On the left is one of the cubic-style Lippo twin towers. move on to the second leg of our little holiday together; to the enigmatic enclave of Macau.
回头见 (guong dong wah),
Derek
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Kuan Yin
Karen Johnson
Chungking Mansions
You are braver than I am. I walked into Chungking Mansions and walked right out. Scary place, if for no other reason than the open tangle of electric wires that you just know aren't up to code. That was about ten years ago, though, so maybe it's cleaned up a bit.