Chinese New Year in Hong Kong - January, 2017

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Chinese New Year in Hong Kong – January 2017



The Year of the Rooster and I arrived in Hong Kong at the same time – naturally I’m assuming the fabulous firework show, taking place over the harbor, is in honor of my arrival – oh vanity, where is thy sting? LOL……but hey, it could happen, right?



Another 20+ hour travel itinerary had me leaving Las Vegas in the middle of the night on a red-eye flight to Minneapolis, where I connected with my second flight on to Seattle. Just 30 minutes here to make my Delta flight on to Hong Kong (god, the things I do to accumulate frequent flyer miles – must stark raving mad!). It’s a long 14-hour flight nonstop to Asia, but having flown this route so many times, I swear I could pilot this bus all my own and still find Chek Lap Kok (Hong Kong’s airport) without sliding into the South China Sea.



When we finally touched down on Asian soil at 6:20pm, I was more than ready to leave that metal tube far behind and stretch my legs on the hike to customs and immigration. Being a national holiday, the airport was basically empty and I sailed thru security with my latest 90-day visa in hand. Baggage claim was also pretty much deserted and my bag arrived (thankfully this time in one complete piece and no damage) in less than 5 minutes. My limo driver was waiting in the Arrivals Hall and then we were off on the 50-minute drive to Kowloon and my hotel in the Mong Kok district. Hilton opened a new Garden Inn property here less than a year ago, and I was eager to check it out.


In the heart of Kowloon, Mong Kok is Hong Kong’s most congested shopping and residential district, but don’t let that scare you away. The neon-bathed historic streets that wind through one of the densest parts of the world are worth visiting – if just for the ‘peoplescapes’ alone. It just so happens that the shopping is excellent too.


The neighborhood includes one of Hong Kong’s most popular markets, the Ladies Market and has a ton of shopping streets, which are a common feature in southern China. Conveniently, these are where a cluster of merchants sell one type of product on a single street. Mong Kok has entire streets and street sections dedicated to the sale of goldfish, flowers, birds, sneakers and kitchenware. Just about everything from bargain household objects to luxury jewelry is bought, sold and haggled over here. Sai Yeung Choi Street sells electronics, cosmetics and clothes; Shantung Street and Dundas Street are where you can pick up the latest Japanese and Western fashion and accessories; while Langham Place is one of the many malls where you can do your Mong Kok shopping in air-conditioned comfort.





A little bit of history:



Populated since Neolithic times, the Mong Kok area has had a mixed history with both busy and quiet times. Around the years 265-420 AD during the Jin Dynasty the area was inhabited, as remains have been found of ceramics of this period. During the Tang Dynasty over a thousand years ago, it was a busy place with large scale Kilns in use, the remains of which are have been found under the present Soy Street (which is where the Hilton Garden Inn property is located). What exactly was being produced in those Kilns is still a matter of archaeological debate, it might have been limestone for industrial and agricultural use, or it might have been some of the famed Tang ceramics. What is known for sure, is that the district was populated and very active.



More recently its location on the coast caused it to become a fishing settlement, and in the 19th century, Mong Kok Tsui was a fishing village with boats mooring at the harbor. In 1884, the Shui Yuet Temple was built on the original location, but relocated to its current location in 1924. The beginning of its long rise to global prominence started in the 1910s with the establishment of a ferry pier, which allowed a regular route to be run between Hong Kong Island and Mongkok Tsui as the village was then known. Little remains of that old village but Shanghai Street, which still exists with its main road linking it to the neighboring villages of Yau Ma Tei on one side and Sham Shui Po on the other. At the same time, the Kowloon Canton Railway opened and a small station at Yau Ma Tei also increased access to the area.



Mong Kok developed quickly between 1925 and 1927 with additional facilities to cater for the growing population were built, including a new Police Station now still part of the current Mong Kok Police Station, as well as Shui Yuet Temple which still stands as a protected historic building. It was during this point that the Diocesan Boys' School was constructed on Kadoorie Hill.


It was just after 7:30pm when we pulled up in front of the Garden Inn lobby which was bathed in sparkling light from a gigantic round-ball crystal chandelier, visible from outside the all-glass-walled property. A speedy and efficient check in process and within minutes, I was ascending in a glass elevator to the 30^th floor and my harbor-view room. And what a view it is! I’m probably 2 or 3 blocks from the water-front but from this height, I have sweeping views of Victoria Harbor and the world-famous Victoria Peak. It was from this waterfront that the awesome fireworks show was underway, celebrating the Chinese New Year. Also known as the Spring Festival, it’s time to don a tacky red jacket, gamble at the Sha Tin Racecourse (horses) and eat until you burst. It usually lasts for 15 days, it began on January 28^th, and it’s the time when families get together to ring in the changes. Yes….it’s the lunar new year, when the wheel of destiny decides whether you will be “cock of the walk” or just a feather duster in the coming 12 months!


I watched the fireworks display while unpacking from my ceiling-to-floor window and then headed to the bathroom for a much-needed hot shower. The king size bed was definitely calling my name and those crisp white sheets beckoned me into the arms of Morpheus and oblivion for the next 10 hours.


Opening the blackout drapes at 7:30am, I was greeted by the sight of shimmering silver water stretching to the horizon, surrounded by the hundreds of skyscrapers for which this city is so famous. Ferries ply their trade from Hong Kong Island to the mainland and helicopters buzz landing strips on luxury hotel rooftops. Small islands dot the harbor entrance, covered with thick green foliage, while heavily-laded container tankers weave their way to exotic ports around the globe. It was time to explore this new addition to the Hilton hotel chain, so first a stop at the reception desk to pick up tourist materials, and then to the second floor where a delicious buffet breakfast awaited my inspection and participation. I always have a breakfast blast when in Asia – I end up eating weird stuff at weird times and it all seems to fit together so well. And why not have poached eggs with chicken noodles and soy sauce, I ask ya? And let’s not forget dim sum stuffed with cashew nuts and cabbage….yummy! The restaurant won my heart when I spotted a cappuccino machine next to the fresh fruit juices – that’s about to become my next best friend in the coming days.


Due to the national holiday, banks and the stock markets are closed here, but that doesn’t deter the thousands of tourists who have flooded Hong Kong for the New Year celebrations. The streets are empty of traffic as residents stay home for “family time” or head to the Sha Tin Racecourse, as today is Hong Kong’s version of the Kentucky Derby. The gates open at 12:30pm with free admission for all tourists. The streets of Mong Kok are crowded as always, even more so with residents having the day off and taking fully advantage of this.


On previous visits, I’ve always taken advantage of the marvelous subway system the MTR, but this time I’m staying in and around Mong Kok to savor this particular neighborhood, so all sightseeing will be on the ankle express, aka my feet. I won’t even be resorting to my favorite sightseeing method of using the HOHO (hop on/hop off) bus – been there, done that – nope, I just want to wander the city blocks and back alleys of this fascinating region. I spent a fantastic afternoon on Nathan Road and Langham Place, window shopping in the vast array of luxury stores and the numerous street vendor stalls. The weather had been warm and humid all morning, but over the course of the afternoon, I noticed fog was rolling in from the South China Sea, blotting out the HK Skyline until it was almost impossible to see anything on the far bank. Then thick clouds joined the party and it started to rain – I hot-footed it back to the hotel, before I got soaked to the skin.


I had planned on having dinner at the hotel last night but fell asleep watching the BBC World News and next thing I knew, it was 2am. Sleep will always trump food when traveling, that’s for sure. The rain continues in a steady drizzle but it adds to the beauty of the harbor scene, with lights bouncing off the raindrops, distorting shapes, putting a blur on everything. My sightseeing today will probably be restricted to indoors, but it all depends on the weather right now. Having missed lunch and dinner yesterday, I’m more than ready for the hotel’s restaurant to open…bring on the eggs and noodles.


After breakfast the rain finally eased up but the clouds remained, so I decided to spend the day exploring the outdoor markets of Mong Kok, where there is plenty of shelter from the vendor stalls, just in case the skies open once more. This neighborhood boasts three theme markets: bird, goldfish and flowers and the variety is amazing. The bird market specializes in song birds which are mainly sold to locals, and the goldfish market specializes in the sale of aquarium fish and aquarium supplies. It has a wide variety of exotic fish, corals, turtles and other aquatic inhabitants in all shapes, sizes and colors. By midafternoon the weather began to deteriorate, so I slowly made my way back to the Garden Inn to spend a couple of hours up at the rooftop bar, enjoying the incredible views from 32 floors up.


Skipped dinner again last night, simply wasn’t that hungry. In a few hours, I’ll be arriving back at Hong Kong’s airport to begin my homeward flights to Las Vegas. Another fantastic short adventure and I loved getting to celebrate 2 New Years’ in less than 1 month. Now, where will I go next? Stay tuned……cheers

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