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Published: June 10th 2011
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HK's two faces
The leafy branches of Mt Parker framing an impressive skyscraper I have by no means travelled far, but I feel confident when I say there is nowhere quite like Hong Kong. Yes, as the saying goes, it is the ultimate ‘East meets West’ setting. But only in parts. There is so much more depth to this city than a cliché. It truly is a place of opposing faces. One barely stops for a breath, whilst the other seems completely oblivious to the presence of mankind. Granted, every place has its different areas, but not to the degree that I have experienced here.
The moment I walked into my apartment, I had been taken aback by the beauty of Mount Parker (the view from the window). Our first Sunday, 1st May, was the perfect opportunity to escape the chaos of our first five days, find some marginally fresher air, and explore ‘real’ Hong Kong. Until this point, I had been thrown into work on my first full day in this unfamiliar land, dragging my jet-lagged head through the day, and attempting to entertain 3 – 15 year olds! Frankly I don’t remember a great amount about those days – to say it was a ‘whirlwind’ doesn’t even begin to describe it.
The Hiking Becca's!
And so we began to climb Mount Parker... MOUNT PARKER
So, with 1.5 litres of water each in hand, Becca and I began our first HK hike! Being one of the largest Country Parks on HK Island, the route takes you up Mount Parker, along the Tai Tam Resevoir and then eventually you drop down into Stanley – a beautiful harbour on the south of the island. According to the map we were using the walk would take roughly 3 hours. Perfect.
The sights were absolutely phenomenal. Truly. Surrounded by the tropical bushes and trees I had spied from my window, we looked out to the city in which we were now residents: High-rise buildings, square windows with laundry hanging from many-a-crevice. Skyscrapers reaching further to the sky than ourselves, half way up a mountain. In the distance – a thin stretch of sea, breaking up HK Island from the mainland, Kowloon-side. And behind us – the intimidating mountain side.
As we walked, many solo walkers passed us. Often they carried portable radios and were listening (without earphones), to relaxation music. There were even some groups/pairs doing Tai Chi as we climbed, at the viewpoints. It was amazing! Clearly, it makes a great amount
The view of HK Island
At a viewpoint part-way up Mt Parker. of sense – where better to relax than amongst nature at its most impressive? Of course, then we passed a lady who was listening to Michael Jackson ‘Beat It’ – the two faces of Hong Kong being well and truly on form!
Eventually, we reached a large picnic and viewing area where we could see over the other side of the mountain. The view was of Tai Tam Reservoir, where we would walk along until we reached the road to Stanley. However, being so caught up in the moment, neither of us realised that this was the point we should actually begin our descent! So we carried on climbing.
And climb we did. In the baking heat, with water supplies running low! The path became much quieter than before – only a few crazy joggers (yes, that’s right JOGGERS) who looked to be in some kind of surreal state of purple-faced, oxygen-starved pain. Good job there’s a doctor’s surgery at the foot of the mountain…
Anyway, eventually, we reached the summit! It was the best wrong turning we had ever made. What a humbling experience. Not another soul in sight – only the graceful eagles circling just
The Summit
Our heads literally in the clouds at the summit of Mt Parker metres above our heads. And the view? The view was mostly clouds – such was the height we had reached. I felt so inferior – the awesome mountains, the mist, the eagles. It was truly stunning.
After this, we of course made our way back down and discovered the path we should have ventured on to (which was actually very well sign posted, of course!), walked along the reservoir and down into Stanley. And you can imagine our state when we reached Stanley – exhausted but extremely happy and satisfied! And, frankly, rather proud – six days in and we’d already climbed a Hong Kong mountain, whether intentionally or not!
STANLEY
Stanley itself is a beautiful place. A market, a Temple, a beautiful beach looking out over the southern coast of the island, many waterfront café’s, bars and restaurants, and – for the more down to earth of us – plenty of 7/11’s with a cheap can of beer to sip on the wall by the waterfront. Beautiful. The vibe is very different from the North of the island. The people breathe, they watch the sea and listen to the waves.
After a very well-deserved
Tai Tam Reservoir
The view from the top of the Tai Tam Reservoir, looking over towards Stanley San Miguel, Bec and I decided this was the day for some Dim Sum. We found a great place – oldy worldy, authentic Chinese. It was very dark inside, with wooden panelling and hanging lanterns. The food was delicious! Except maybe the squid – we were literally confronted with tentacles in our chopsticks. Mmm.
This was our first experience of the calm, natural face of HK: HK without it’s make-up on, shall we say?! It was such a comfort to find. Knowing that this side of it is so available really means that you can embrace the crazy, hectic life that bustles and jerks throughout the north of the island when you want to. And it’s so wonderful to know that we have such a long time to explore both of these elements.
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