Bordering Russia - Kazbegi

Asia » Georgia » Northern Georgia
October 2nd 2014

Published: October 2nd 2014

Edit Blog Post

toabroad

View from Gergeti Monastery

Whoever said a picture says a thousand words surely didn't visit the Kazbegi Region. Over the past few days I spent time in the valleys and mountanious region, taking in breathtaking views, sampling authentic Kinkali, and learning about the antiquity of the Georgian heritage.

Before leaving Tblisi Archil and I had to accomplish three things: pick up Andrew (the owner of the house in Kazbegi), pick up dinner from the mall, and fill the tank with LNG (liquified natural gas). In Tblisi the mall houses everything you would want, kind of like a Costco. We ended up picking up Andrew prior to shopping, and Archil and Andrew asked me how I liked football. Naturally, being American, I told them I enjoyed the sport, but soon realized that they were asking about soccer. It turned out that Barcelona was playing that night and Archil and Andrew were hoping to watch the game on the TV in Kazbegi. Next, we need LNG. I am curious about the subject of natural gas for cars since in Western Pennsylvania we have access to major reserves in the Marcellus Shale, and in the US it is widely used for everything. However, most US cars still

Andrew and aArchil

run on petrol or gasoline. Archil informed me the conversation of his vehicle cost him $700 US dollars but the economic advantages had already paid for the system with a gallon of petrol at $4 and a gallon of LNG at $2. I think if Georgia can institute this change then perhaps this is something more American consumers might consider. After filling up the tank with LNG and taking a picture of Archil and Andrew we headed to the Tblisi. We arrived at the Tblisi mall to get dinner and drink for the evening. The plan was to have Cognac, and while Armenian Cognac is the best we ended up getting Gomi Cognac (Georgian cognac). During my hosts time shopping for Cognac I took the liberty to snap a couple photos of the selection in the store for beer to share with friends back home. I reconvened with Archil and Andrew in the next aisle and they were looking for sardines and another canned item to go wih bread and cheese for dinner. I took out my ipad again to take some pictures for this blog and before snapping more than two photos I was reprimanded (in Georgian) by a

LNG gas station

Georgian butcher. Archil explained I was an American and that seemed to be the proverbial get out of jail free card during the exchange because after that the butcher went back to his craft. Either way, I have some great photos of the mall market.

After getting three napoleon hat bread loafs (named that for their shape), a few sardines, spicy mushrooms, a homemade Georgian salad, and, of course, Cognac, we were ready for Kazbegi.

I knew we were in for an epic trip when the Gladiator Theme song (sang by Enya) came on stereo coincidentally as we moved from the northern suburbs, towards the rock wall valleys leading through mountains to Kazbegi. Fortunately for you, I had the video camera on. Click the link below to view the scene.

After this scene we did pull over at a monastery near a beautiful green/aqua colored lake surrounded by tree trimmed mountains. I am sure you have picked up on it by now, but Georgians have churches everywhere here. At one point during the drive I pointed to a castle built into the hillside of a mountain and asked Archil how old was the

Beer in mall market

building? He casually replied not that old, and elaborated probably built in the 12th century. I explained in the US we consider anything over 100 years old historic.

Here is a link to view the video of the monastery and lake.

We drove for a few hours and darkness set in, followed by a fog that left very little in front of us visible. Archil took it slow and was an exceptional driver that evening. We ended up pulling over an hour or so into the trip. Andrew wore a smile and I asked why we had pulled over. We exited the car, with our head bound LED flashlights and walked towards the end of the road. I followed Andrew down a set of stairs and we were beneath the road way and a ceramic pipe from the wall gushed water. Andrew explained it was mineral water from the mountain and proceeded to fill several containers full of it. I helped him carry it back to the car, and when we were inside we each drank a glass of pure, fresh mineral water. Where in the US can you pull over to the side

Butcher department in Tblisi Mall

of the road and drink water coming off a mountain? Archil explained the sulfur water is known for it's curing effects and prized amount many Georgians, particularly in Kazbegi, while residents of Tblisi prefer to not drink the water. After drinking the water the past two days I report no negative effects, and actually feel my skin is healthier.

During our drive, Archil, Andrew and I spoke about Georgia and they helped me get a better understanding of Mother Georgia when Archil and I were speaking. I have not seen it yet, but I understand Mother Georgia is a statue that is near Tblisi where a woman is depicted holding a sword in her right hand and a bowl in the left. Essentially to say if you come as an enemy I will meet you with the sword, but if you come as a friend I will give you wine. The Georgian culture has little room for a lack of clear communication amongst people, and the sword and wine symbolism shows this in a monument. That night I was greeted as a friend, but with cognac instead of wine.

We arrived late in the evening two days ago

Lake

in Kazbegi. It was dark, and this prevented me from having any chance to view what surrounded me, namely the mountains. We entered Andrews house, left to his family after his grandfather and mother had passed in the past year. It was in this moment I was happy we were in a house as the temperature sank to near 30 degrees Fahrenheit that night. I went to use the restroom, and when I returned Archil and Andrew had prepared the meal. We sat down and had an Azerbajan music video channel in the background. I want to hold off on going to I depth into the supra we had, as I plan to write a separate blog post about titled "what to expect at a supra". During our toast we thank families, countries, and departed family such as grandmothers and grandfathers. The way we toasted it reminded me of an Irish wake. The sardines and beef intomato sauce actually were complimented by the cheese and bread. We drink coke and Georgian lemonade, and the mushrooms were also very good. We discussed many topics in depth, and I really enjoyed the idea of having a dedicated toastmaster as it helped set

Archil, Andrew and I

the pace for the evening and tone of enjoyment. Archil is an excellent orator in Georgian or English and the ideas he brought up during the toasts challenged each member of the table to think about how it impacts them. I will be frank, by the end of the evening no sardine, piece of bread, morsel of cheese, or drop of cognac was left. We ate well and drank well, and then it was time for some shut eye.

At 8 am I awoke to Archil preparing to head out for an excursion. After brushing my teeth and putting on my jacket we were off. We drove north, towards Russia.

We drove along the Terek River tributaries, and I learned from Archil that it is the 4th fastest river in the world. Several years ago some Swiss tourists came to raft on the river. Their Georgian guides advised them to rethink, but the Swiss didn't head the warning. 20 meters down river from their launching site the boat capsized and and rafters washed ashore over around the area. We made our way along his river and eventually stopped for a picture with the river, gorge and

Kazbegi Town Square

mountain in HHS background.

After going through a tunnel we found ourselves within 2 miles of the Russian border. As we drove further and to within 200 yards of the Russian border we observed the construction of a new church. the outside was a sheer brown tan and all of this church was new. It almost seemed out of place, but then we must remember there are many churches and monastery throughout the country on tops of mountains, in hillsides, and within towns. Then it hit me, this was as much a move to build a nice church as it was to defensively secure Kazbegi. There were no buildings for miles until you hit the formal town of Kazbegi, but by building this church the Georgians are able to lay claim to land up until 200 yards of the Russian border.

We paused several times to take pictures of the Terek River and a couple caves blasted to make way for some kind of Industrial use. After this we returned to the house the way we came. Andrew was still sleeping, so we proceeded to leave for our trek up the mountain. Archil and took on

Road to Russia

the goat path of a road with his 2005 Hyundai Tucson with a V6 engine and four wheel drive. We made our way up the hill with relative ease. It seemed the predominant means of taxi type to asscend the hill was by using a Mitsubishi Delica. I took a picture of them to show you.

As we approached the summit Archil asked that I close my eyes, and when he stopped. I opened them. Below is a video of the first sights from the top.

">

Gergeti Trinity Church (Georgian: წმინდა სამება - Tsminda Sameba) is a popular name for Holy Trinity Church near the village of Gergeti in the Georgia. The church is situated on the right bank of the river Chkheri (the left tributary of the river Terek), at an elevation of 2170 meters, under Mount Kazbegi. The Gergeti Trinity Church was built in the 14th century, and is the only cross-cupola church in Khevi province. The separate belltower dates from the same period as the church itself. Its isolated location on top of a

Church built in 2012 right next to the Georgian-Russian Border

steep mountain surrounded by the vastness of nature has made it a symbol for Georgia. The 18th century Georgian author Vakhushti Batonishvili wrote that in times of danger, precious relics from Mtskheta, including Saint Nino's Cross were brought here for safekeeping. During the Soviet era, all religious services were prohibited, but the church remained a popular tourist destination. The church is now an active establishment of the Georgian Orthodox and Apostolic Church

For many foreign tourists the views are breathtaking, but it is much more than that for Georgians. I took some beautiful pictures, that is true, but Archil explained to me the history of Georgia and how that has been tied into the fabric of this special place For Georgians. It is modern day antiquity And a place Georgians regard as a national treasure passed down by their ancestors.

As I sat on top of the mountain next to the ancient Gergeti Church I saw a small Village of Gergeti and the roadway we had taken to go to the Russian border. I also saw the narrowness of the pass through the mountains was reminded of the movie 300. Archil explained that since Georgia is so small, with a small population, it was

Border of Georgia and Russia

critical to use geography and topography to defend against invading armies(not unlike the way the Spartans used geography against hundreds of thousands of persian soldiers in the Battle of Thermoplyae). If you don't know what I am referencing watch this. ">

The random and many churches on tops of mountains and in hillsides make more sense if you think of how a small population would defend against larger invading armies. Nonetheless, the entire experience inside the church and on the outside grounds was amazing, and I only wish I had a better camera to try to capture the depth and grandiuer of the clouds resting atop the mountain peaks.

Attached are some pictures from the time there. Here is a 58 second video showing 360 degrees from Gergeti Trinity.

">

After sharing some time looking around at the mountains we began to walk towards the car, and found it guarded by the monks horses. After passing by some hikers, Delicas, and "Alpinists" we reached the village, gathered our things, and began the drive back to Tblisi. We began our drive back.

On the way back Archil pointed out several sites to me I

Terek River

had not noticed before. Namely the sulphur hills where the spring water came from and the major sheep population in the area. The sulphur hill is a natural phenomenon that happens in the mountains. I ended up taking a picture on the hill. Also, Archil and Andrew explained that it was the sheep herders who are credited with making he first Kincali ever. Kincali, for those who do not know, is one of Georgias most beloved dishes. It involves a dumpling like outside, with very fresh meat and spices cooked on the inside, and when it is served with your favorite pilsner or Georgian lemonade it is fantastic. There is a very particular way to eat Kincali. First you must be sure to hold it upside down by the stem, then take a small bite into it. Then, you must drink the savory juice before it hits the plate. Last, you are free to enjoy everything, but the stem you hold. My personal record stands at 8 Kincali. Archil was very pleased that ai did not spill the Kincali juice since most foreigners do. After 8 Kincali the idea of a nap is pretty hard to pass up, but I

Showdown with a Mitsubushi Delica on a trail

did my best to keep from nodding off while Archil drove. We dropped off Andrew and returned to the house. It is two days plus later and I think it's times took a shower and cleaned up a bit. I hope you will pardon me for the moment.

Next up is still shopping, and perhaps this weekend east Georgia near Azerbajan.

Thanks again to those with advice, commentary questions. Feel free to send a quick email to me if you are interested in anything in particular.

Best,

Tim

Additional photos below

Photos: 28, Displayed: 28

Comment Follow (0) Message

Tim O

toabroad

My name is Tim O'Brien and I was born and raised in Pittsburgh, PA. Follow my blog here to keep up to date on what I am doing and where I am going. Next stop - the emerald isle. ... full info

Joined	September 8th 2014	Trips	3
Last Login	June 3rd 2016	Followers	0
Status	BLOGGER	Follows	0
Blogs	21	Guestbook	2
Photos	173	Forum Posts	0

[blog=859474]

[blogger=299218]

Blog Options

Blog Map

Print Version

[blog=859474]

[blogger=299218]

Brief history of Georgia

The region of present-day Georgia contained the ancient kingdoms of Colchis and Kartli-Iberia. The area came under Roman influence in the first centuries AD and Christianity became the state religion in the 330s. Domination by Persians, Arabs, and Tu...more history

Trips

Trip to the Republic of Georgia
September 26th 2014 -» October 12th 2014
Rome and Prague
November 27th 2015 -» December 7th 2015
Ireland
June 4th 2016 -» June 18th 2016

Blogged From