Retrospective: World Expeditions "Backroads to Yangshuo" tour

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Now that I've complete the first part of this tour, it's probably worth noting a few of my observations. First, I should explain that I am actually doing an 18-day "China by Bike" tour, of which the first 12 days matches the "Backroads to Yangshuo" tour. Four of the six people in my tour group leave at this stage, with only two of us continuing for the full 18 days.

So, what did I think about the trip? Several things...

1. China is not what I expected
Yes, I expected riding through rice fields and I got plenty of that. However, I had envisaged it as riding along dirt roads and staying in shanty-like accommodation. Instead, we had paved roads (although in various states of disrepair in certain spots) and all accommodation was safe, clean and in real buildings with real beds, bathrooms and facilities. Some of the hotels were problematic (eg one with no hot water, one felt like a dirty love hotel) but is was a far cry from "roughing it". For example, some packing guides recommended taking thongs for going to the shower, but all our hotels had normal, private bathrooms.

2. There's a great future for China
China has only been "open" for about 30 years, and it is amazing the growth that has happened during this time. We saw fantastic investment in infrastructure such as roads, bridges, subways (in Guangzhou), schools and tourist facilities. Practically all signs are also in English. School children, while having an amazed look on their face when seeing a bunch of Westerners riding by wearing helmets and bright-coloured clothes, all happily responded by saying "Hallo!" as we rode past. The huge number of small businesses and the desire to earn money to pay for a better lifestyle means that the country is bustling with activity and commerce.

3. It is not a police state
About the only place I've seen police was in the highly-populated city of Guangzhou, which has half the population of Australia. There were police in booths every couple of blocks, but I get the impression that they were more like "neighbourhood watch". Our tour leader told us that there used to be many handbag thefts by people on motorbikes, so the city completely banned motorbikes. Problem solved! Outside of the big cities, I've only rarely seen police vehicles and they're probably mostly involved with traffic. So, I don't get the impression that I'm in some "big brother" Communist state. Indeed, the Capitalism here amongst small businesses is making a thriving economy.

4. China provides lessons for handling population growth
There's a lot of people here in China. I can feel them when I ride the subway in Guangzhou (crammed together like a Tokyo subway). I can see them when I try riding down the road in Yangshuo, with cyclists outnumbering the motor vehicles. I observe them riding electric motorbikes, which are probably better for the environment and cheaper to run (but darn dangerous because they are silent!). We can look towards China for ways to handle larger populations, although it will mean giving up many of the comforts we currently have in Australia.

5. The Backroads are a great way to experience China
I enjoyed my few days in Guangzhou, and it is representative of China's urban future. However, the week I spent in smaller towns and riding through smaller communities has given me a better "feel" for the "real" China. There's no way to know the country as a whole - it is so large and diverse. But this trip has given me the opportunity to see a range of people, communities and locations that would not be possible merely by driving through towns in a bus, or sitting in a big-city hotel and perusing shops.

I'm looking forward to the next part of my trip, which covers Xi'an and Beijing. I expect Xi'an to be scenic, tourist-oriented and different from the areas I have seen. Beijing will be another "big city" experience, combined with some incredible cultural history. I will be concluding my trip with a couple of nights in Shanghai, which I expect will showcase the "future" of China as it enters the world of international commerce.

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