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Published: October 25th 2010
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Together in the gorge
Jessie's in Korea for a tennis tournament, so the two of us enjoy some hiking time together. Slow down. Get out of the car. Breathe in, breathe out. Stop and really look. Sometimes it’s the simple things that make a vacation memorable. There are plenty of ways to see this beautiful area of China, but sometimes the best way to see is to experience. Hiking 3 days along a mountain edge trail really helps put things in perspective. You might be literally “in the trees”, but somehow the forest doesn’t block your view. In day 2, Matt receives a call from work. Can’t he please return right away for an emergency problem? Sorry, no cars, roads, or way to get back for at least another day. The emergency will have to be solved another way - at least temporarily. And who is it that takes on this hiking adventure anyway? First, it’s a decidedly international crowd. We met travelers from France, Germany, Australia, New Zealand, South Korea, the Netherlands, Spain, Japan, Latvia, Iceland, Nicaragua, Argentina, Israel, Switzerland, Hong Kong, China, and even a couple from Boston and a man from L.A.! Also, it’s a mixture of young and old, but leaning heavily toward those who are 20 something and out on long working/touring travels around the world. The
Lijiang views
From a hill over Lijiang, the rooftops of the old Naxi village spread across the landscape. most adventuresome go guideless and carry backpacks full of their travel necessities. Us softies hire not only a guide, but also a pony to help carry the load and free up our arms. Bonus: the pony comes with a “pony man” who happens to know EVERYTHING about the mountain - the medicinal herbs, roots, and leaves abundant on the slopes, the local deaf/mute/crazy girl who spends her days building rock walls, the person below the overgrown tombstone beside the trail, even the goats and their owners! That, and his steady smile, make him one of the greatest treasures on the trip.
O’k, the logistics.
Where: Tiger Leaping Gorge. Yunnan province of SW China about an hour drive out of Lijiang, after about a 3.5 hr flight out of Shanghai. One of world’s deepest gorges formed by the Yangtze river cutting through legend filled mountains named “Jade Dragon Snow Mountain” and “Haba”.
What: Challenging mountain edge trail combining steep ascents and descents with dangerous precipices and narrow trails aside sheer drops revealing deep gorge views that will knock your thick wool hiking sox off. Total about 25km. Altitude 2000-2600m.
Why: Because it’s there!!!
Best memory: hmmmm, tough one. Maybe sucking
Horseback riders
Talented horseback riders raced around the stage and added a sense of power to this impressive show of the people of Snow Mountain area. in breath after a steep climb, watching the mist funnel into the gorge to be briefly swept away revealing vistas of epic scale, feeling the wind zing the sweat across my face as Matt beckons me to come to the edge for a closer look. “Cluck, cluck, cluck” I say.
Accommodations: Mountain edge guest houses with names like “Tina’s”, “Halfway house”, “Sean’s”, and “Tea Horse Guest House”. Not only do they provide simple rooms and nourishing meals, but also a venue for trekkers to sip some tea while enjoying each other’s company.
Side notes: There’s the ethnic minority presence which pervades every part of the trip. From the unique food combinations like deep fried mint with bacon, yak with chilis, or “baba” covered with chocolate to the “dongba” hieroglyphics marked on the mountainside to the hard working Naxi people carrying loads in baskets on their backs. In Lijiang, Zhang Yimou has created yet another awesome show highlighting the people and beauty of this peaceful, tough, enriched area of China. The pictures only show one dimension. Add drum beats rumbling through my stomach, the screams of the horse riders as they gallop around the stage, and the crisp clean air to
People of Snow Mountain
Over 500 local people in traditional costume perform in this outdoor production "Impression Lijiang". fill out the experience.
Would I recommend this to friends? Not everyone, but for those who appreciate the wonder of mother nature, love being outdoors, can endure a bit of discomfort, and find interest in exploring other cultures and regions, hiking the trail can be very satisfying indeed. Personally, I'm thankful to have the physical and financial ability and a willing husband to allow me this once in a lifetime opportunity.
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Laura Smith
non-member comment
WOW
Thanks for keeping us entertained Shanghai Sheri! Sure miss you, but certainly enjoy your adventures! Hugs...