The backdoor by the numbers

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Statistics about the backdoor route from Chengdu to Lijiang (by descending order):

4718 meters is the highest point which I passed on the route.
1500 kilometers is the distance I covered, of which
300 kilometers are a dirt road which leaves you feeling rattled like one of those dashboard toy dogs. It took
37 hours (net) to cover the distance.
7 is the amount of times I heard the Beatles' "Abbey Road" album from start to finish, since it was the only music I had on my mp3 player. I didn't tire of it.
6 days is how long it took to cover the route. This is also the number of foreigners - individuals or couples - which I saw the entire time. Most of the time, people look at you as if you were a Martian who just landed. I passed through
5 towns and villages in which I stopped.
4 is the number of Noodle Soups which I had during this time. It's just the easiest thing to point to in the phrasebook when ordering. I used
3 modes of transportation - busses, minivans and jeeps. I visited
2 monasteries. On the fourth day I had
1 very unlpeasant stomach disorder. After that I decided to cut my plans short and get out of there but it still took two more days of busses to get back to civilization.
0 is the number of clean pairs of socks, underwear, shirts, pants, etc. which I have left after the route. It's impossible to wash and dry clothes in the freezing cold up there when you have less than a day in one place. And so, one discovers the ability to "recycle".
-10 degrees is how cold it feels in Daocheng when you get an urgent call of nature at 3am and have to get out of a warm bed and walk in shorts across an exposed and snowy courtyard to do your thing...

I loved every minute of it! (well, except for the stomach part...)

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Photos

Tibetan hostel
In what was by far the most amazing room I've stayed in so far, I ended up spending the night in a Tibetan dorm room.

Tibetan hostel
Later in the day, some more people showed up. A French Canadian couple, Martin and Lauren also slept in the dorm.

Tibetan hostel
Lauren found a few bugs beneath her sheets. They weren't so small, which was good. I worry about the real tiny ones. I ended up using my sleeping bag instead of their sheets. Just to be on the safe side...

Tibetan hostel in Xiancheng
We spent the evening playing cards. I re-learned Shithead for the 5th time (I can never remember card games). Also, Martin let me have his Chinese Chess instruction booklet, so I'm planning to get started with that and see if I'm any match for the Chinese...

Snowstorm
Taken from the jeep on the way from Litang to Daocheng. The next morning all the surrounding mountains were covered with a thick white layer.

Villages around Xianchang
Typical Tibetan villages which can be seen from a hill outside Xiancheng.

Tibetan architecture
Beautiful Tibetan houses overlooking Xiancheng. The nicest I saw throughout the route.

Tibetan architecture
Some of the windows are not sealed (no glass panes).

Sunglasses again...
I don't know what it is about my sunglasses, but Tibetans are fascinated with them. They have to try them on, find out how much they cost (I never tell, too embarrasing), etc. I think I might start a sunglasses photo collection...

Starry Starry night...
Long exposure shot taken outside the hostel in Xiancheng. The sky was amazingly clear.

Starry Starry night...
Long exposure shot taken outside the hostel in Xiancheng. The sky was amazingly clear.

Breathtaking vistas
Taken from the bus on the way from Xiancheng to Zhongdian.

Breathtaking vistas
Taken from the bus on the way from Xiancheng to Zhongdian.

Breathtaking vistas
Taken from the bus on the way from Xiancheng to Zhongdian.

Comments

[katharine]

advice please
great photos by the way....we are planning on doing a similar route to this one and wondered if you could please tell us the name of the tibetan hostel and how much it cost, if you can remember would be much appreciated. many thanks. safe travells. Katharine [e-mail]

[Michel]

So Darned Interesting
Highly informative and quite daring. Take Tums next time.

[Astrid Peters]

Photos sent through Uncle Rob.... beautiful
Hi.... your photos and lifestyle are astonishing.... hope you enjoy the rest of your trip!

[Diane Williamson]

Great pictures
Thankyou so much for your blog and pictures! I am doing a very large painting and needed a picture of a village as the person commissioning the painting insists on one in it. This pic is PERFECT!!!!

[Berenice]

Tibetan Hostel
I'm also planning a trip there and that Tibetan Hostel looks amazing. Could you e-mail me the name and also how much it cost? My e-mail is [e-mail] . Thank you so much!