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Published: April 30th 2009
Dear friends,
Today we left Dali and after a long drive we arrived in Lijiang. A famous traditional village and listed on Unesco World Heritage.
For more information about Lijiang, the Naxi minority and the Naxi Ancient Music read the three articles below.
Information provided by www.travelguidechina.com. Thanks a lot The Old Town of Lijiang, a well-preserved old city of ethnic minorities with brilliant culture, is a central town of the Lijiang Autonomous County of the Naxi Ethnic Minority in Yunnan Province. Located on the plateau which is 2,400 meters (7,874 feet) above the sea level and embraced by the tree-covered Lion Mountain in the west, Elephant and Golden Row Mountains in the north, vast fertile fields in the southeast and crystal clear water running through, the old town looks like a big jade ink slab, therefore got the alias the Town of Big Ink Slab (Dayanzhen).
The Old Town which occupies an area of three point eight square kilometers (912 acres) was firstly built in the late Song Dynasty and the early Yuan Dynasty and has a history of more than 800 years. Since Kubla Khan who is the first emperor of the Yuan Dynasty
set his reign here, Lijiang was on a fast developmental way and became the political, cultural, and educational center in this area, playing a very important role in the trading activities among Yunnan, China hinterland, Tibet, India and many other Asian countries. Till now, when walking on the streets of the Old Town, one can feel the prosperity and flourish of the town from the shops with fancy and superb collections of handicrafts.
The Lijiang Old Town is built along the lie of mountains and the flow of rivers, providing a very precious sample of the research on the old-time architecture. The unique geographical location, historical background and multiracial inhabitants make the town the most special one:
The Old Town is the only old city built without a city wall and there is an interesting story telling the reason. Lijiang had been under the reign of the hereditary Mu family for more than 500 years. If the Chinese character 'Mu' (represents the governor of Lijiang) is put into a frame (represents the city wall), you have the character 'Kun' which means 'siege' or 'predicament'. This would mean that the governing Mu family and their descendants would
always be trapped like a rat in a hole. Because of this symbolism, Old Town Lijiang was never given a city wall.
As a result of the combination of the multinational culture and the progress of Naxi ethnic minority, the buildings in the town incorporate the best parts of the architectural traits of Han, Bai, and Tibet into a unique Naxi style. The layout of the town is free-style and flexible, the houses are close and diverse, and the lanes are narrow and meandering. Naxi people pay much attention to the decoration, the commodious and applied houses are mostly timber and tile structure compound with a garden, each has engraved vivid figures of people and animals on doors and windows, beautiful flowers and trees in the garden. Living in such a beautiful and comfortable environment is a real pleasant thing.
The old Town of Lijiang is a city depends on water for existence and water is just like its blood. Black Dragon Pool (Heilongtan) is the main water source of the town and subdivides into many streams which can reach every family and every street in the town. Due to the reticular aqueducts, willow trees grow
everywhere and there are almost 350 varied and inimitable bridges in the little town, some of which were built in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The usage of the water created by the local people is very scientific. They build three mouths every well from the upriver to the downriver. The water in the first mouth is for edibility, the second one is for cleaning of the vegetables and fruits, and the last one is used to wash the clothes. The water not only meets the need of the dweller, but also gives the town a beauty of gentle. The town reputed as the 'Oriental Venice' and 'Suzhou in Highland', but it is much, much more than this. Once you have visited Old Town Lijiang, it will capture your heart for the rest of your life.
The center of the Old Town is the Square Street (Sifangjie). Four main streets radiate from Square Street and extend to the four different directions. Countless lanes extending in all directions form a network and connect every corner of the town. Streets in the Old Town are paved by the local bluestones which are neither muddy in the rainy season nor dusty in
the dry season. The massive and fine-grained stones add a sense of antiquity and mystery to the Old Town. The sluice at the center of town is opened late in the night and the resulting current of water flushes and washes all the streets to keep the town clean. This practical use of water is part of the daily life of the residents in Old Town.
On December 3rd, 1997, the Old Town of Lijiang was put in the list of the World's Relics by the World Cultural Heritage Commission of the UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization). The charming Old Town is now a famous tourist attraction for its traditional ethnic culture and customs, inimitable buildings and the wonderful natural views
Information about the Naxi Minority. Population and Distribution:
The people of the Naxi ethnic minority mostly live in the Naxi Autonomous County in Lijiang, Yunnan Province, while the rest live in Sichuan and Tibet. Their population is 308,893 according to the 2000 census. In the name Naxi (also spelled Nakhi), Na means senior and honored and Xi means people.
Language and Character:
The Naxi language belongs to the Tibetan-Burman
group of the Sino-Tibetan phylum. In the past, they used a pictographic language called 'Dongba' and another called 'Geba'. In 1957, they designed characters based on the Latin alphabet and now most can write in Chinese. The Dongba Scripture (or Dongba Jing) that their ancestors left has recorded all facets of the Naxi life and is highly valued for posterity as a means of studying their character and history.
Religion:
Before the foundation of modern China in 1949, most of the Naxi held the faiths of Dongba Jiao, believing that all have spirits and those spirits could never die. When they encountered significant events such as marriage, death, festivals, or disasters, they would invite a wizard to chant. Although there was Buddhism, Taoism and Christianity being taught there, few Naxi people turned to those religions.
Life Styles:
The Naxi people live on farming, stockbreeding and handicrafts. Reaches of the Jinshajiang River is abundant in botanical resources such as trees and medicinal herbs. The Lijiang horse has also enjoyed the reputation for years of one of the 'Three treasures of Lijiang' which were presented to the official courts because of its ability to transport goods in mountainous area.
The Naxi's breakfast is simple and usually consists of steamed bread, but lunch and supper are often more sumptuous. They like to pickle pork. The pickled Pipa pork is famous for lasting several years.
Festivals:
Based on the lunar calendar, the main Naxi festivals are Spring Festival, Pure Brightness, Dragon Boat Festival, Mid-Autumn Festival and Torch Festival. Generally, these festivals are celebrated with worship and sacrificial activities.
Other Customs:
The Naxi people are warm and kind. After a hunt, they will share a piece of the kill with a casual passerby. When visited, they will prepare six or eight delicious dishes to treat their guests. Most of the young Naxi people insist that they have one spouse and usually they have a very complicated process to protect their monogamous marriage. But for those living beside Luguhu Lake in Lijiang, they still keep the 'walking' marriage which is the only remaining vestige of a matrilineal clan among all the ethnic groups of China.
Information about the Naxi Ancient Music When walking on the ancient streets of Lijiang Old Town, you will undoubtedly hear the wonderful Naxi (also spelt Nakhi and Nahi) Ancient Music, the traditional Naxi classical
music that is regarded as a 'living fossil of Chinese music.'
Naxi people must enjoy special favor in the eyes of the divinity, for they seem to be born with artistic qualities and poetic minds. Great talents in the areas of poetry, calligraphy, painting, and music have all come from this rich and captivating culture.
A crystallization of Taoist rite, Confucian ceremony, and the literary lyrics, poetic topics and musical tones of the Tang, Song and Yuan Dynasties, Naxi Ancient Music has developed its own unique style and traits - the result of 500 hundred years of evolution. It originally included three parts -'Baisha Fine Music' (Baisha Xiyue), 'Dongjing Music' (Dongjing Yinyue), and 'Huangjing Music' (Huangjing Yinyue), the last of which has long been lost in the river of time. Played on venerable Chinese musical instruments such as flute, shawm, Chinese lute, plectrum, and zither, Naxi Music has the power to cleanse the heart and relax the mind.
Baisha Fine Music: It is said that Baisha Fine Music was an honoraria from the first emperor of the Yuan Dynasty-Kublai Khan. When this brave conqueror was on his expedition to Dali, which is not far from Lijiang, he
met danger while crossing the Golden Sand River and received help from Mailiang, the leader of the Naxi people. To show his pure-hearted appreciation, Kublai Khan left half of his band and many musical scores as a gift before leaving. Baisha Fine Music is one of ancient China's few large-scale, classical orchestral forms of music and has 24 'qupai' (tunes) which are archaic, simple and elegant in style, and exquisite, euphonious and energetic in character.
Dongjing Music: This is a type of Taoist music which was introduced to Yunnan from the central Plains during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Deeply rooted and widely spread among the Naxi people, Dongjing Music became the most well-preserved musical form in all of China. Besides its intrinsic stateliness, purity and elegance, Dongjing Music incorporated the local musical elements, styles and the skills used in performances of the Naxi ethnic group-creating a feeling of transcendental artistic conception and charming folk flavor which can be easily appreciated. It was originally an enjoyment reserved for the noble class, but these shackles were eventually broken because of the Naxi people's passion for music.
At least four unabridged orchestras exist in and around Lijiang, and these characteristic
bands are famous for their 'three-olds': first, old men (most of the players are over 70 years old); second, old musical instruments (many are antiques dating back more than 100 years, some of which can not be seen in other places); third, old songs (all are antiquated classical music). Members of the bands are drawn from all kinds of occupations including teachers, artisans, farmers, butchers, clerks, etc. Naxi Ancient Music Bands have been invited to perform in Hong Kong, Great Britain, America, Holland, Belgium and Norway, exercising great influence and gaining attention from all over the world.
Generations of national musicians devote themselves to Naxi Ancient Music and make it a part of Naxi culture. Music can represent a nation's spirit and offer a better way to know the people who play and enjoy it, so take the opportunity to hear Naxi Ancient Music; it is guaranteed to be an unforgettable life experience.
Stay tuned for our new adventures.
From Lijiang with love.
Monkey and Bear.
Lieve vrienden en vriendinnen,
Vandaag vertrekken wij uit Dali en gaan op weg naar Lijiang. Een traditioneel dorp dat geplaatst
is op de Unesco lijst van World Heritage.
Het is een behoorlijk lange rit, voornamenlijk off-road en wij zijn opnieuw blij dat wij gelukkig kunnen beschikken over een uitstekende 4-wheel terreinwagen.
De temperatuur ligt de laatste dagen behoorlijk hoog, zo rond de 32 graden. Door de combinatie van een hoge luchtvochtigheid en de hoge temperatuur en de hoogteverschillen hakt deze reis er behoorlijk in. Aangekomen in Lijiang checken wij in in een traditioneel huis met courtyard en alles er om heen.
Het kunnen verblijven in dit soort hotels geeft nog eens een extra dimensie aan deze rondreis.
The old town van Lijiang is onvoorstelbaar mooi, een deel is opnieuw opgebouwd na de forse aardbeving in 1996, maar veel gebouwen verkeren nog in de traditionele staat. Lijiang ligt ongeveer op 2500 meter hoogte.
De provincie Yunnan staat bekend om haar natuurschoon, maar ook om haar vruchtbare landbouwgronden. Alles groeit en bloeit hier. Op de lokale markten wordt alles rechtstreeks van het land geoost verkocht. Het smaakniveau van de groenten (veel totaal onbekende soorten), het fruit en de talloze soorten paddenstoelen (zo rechtstreeks uit de bosrijke gebieden - 3500 - 4000 meter) zijn uniek te noemen. Zelfs van een simpele
tomaat geniet je met volle teugen. Kortom de smaakpapillen worden constant volop geprikkeld.
Het is een fantastische ervaring om hier te zijn en wat van de omgeving hier te mogen zien en wat van de Naxi cultuur te mogen meekrijgen.
Wij bezoeken in de avond een optreden van het wereldberoemde Naxi orkest - oneerbiedig gezegd: het ouwe lullenorkest.
Dit orkest onder leiding van
heeft opgetreden (en treedt nog steeds op) in de grootste concerthallen ter wereld en voor talloze hoogwaardigheidsbekleders, koningshuizen en presidenten.
De tweede avond gaan wij naar een onvoorstelbaar mooie traditionele show over de minority people van Yunnan. Hier hebben wij geen foto's gemaakt omdat Bear een avondje vrij wilde hebben. Dus hebben wij de DVD gekocht. Bijna twee uur puur genieten.
Geniet weer van een paar van onze vele (onbewerkte) foto's want daar hebben wij helemaal geen tijd voor, reis met ons mee door de eeuwenoude historie en cultuur van Lijiang.
Stay tuned for upcoming adventures.
From Lijiang with love.
Monkey and Bear.
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sylvia
non-member comment
It is travelling.
Though I've been to Lijiang several times, I was impressed by the pure blue sky, the unique tradition of Naxi minority people, the numerable bars in the old town, etc. Here, you open another view of the amazing Lijiang. That is, the real without any pretending and the local without any comercial elements view of Lijiang. Looking forward for ur new blog. ^^