KKKKKunming

---

I dont think its a coincidence that pronouncing Kunming sounds like hocking up phlegm. Phlegm decorates the filthy streets like little yellow green flowers in a field of debris.

I hated Kunming from the minute I got off the train. It was dirty, noisy, smelly and busy, but even more so. The road was the footpath and the footpath was the road and no matter where I stood I was pushed and shoved and beeped at. The touts were aggressive and persistant, grabbing me by the elbow and trying to pull me in the other direction. And some bastard stole my wallet right out of my bag.

I tried not to get angry about it. I only carry minumum cash (about $30) in my wallet, and they could have taken my camera, or, gulp, my ipod. But still, I was annoyed. It annoyed me because I want to be able to trust people, but there are a few who people who ruin it for everyone.

Beggers line the streets in Kunming. I have seen few beggers up until now, and I always give them money. I dont know why they congregate in such numbers in Kunming. People with horrible, terrible injuries and deformities wave disfigueded appendages as you pass. On the first day (before I lost my wallet) I made the mistake of giving some loose change to a dirty sad looking kid who couldnt have been more than 4 years old. The next minute I was surrounded by kids, looking up at me dirtily and sadly while they tugged my clothes and waved tin cups under my nose. I was happy to give them money, so little to me would have been so much for them, but I ran out of small notes and had to say no to half of them. I felt terrible.

The one good thing about Kunming was the food. There was some great pan bread with chives cooked up by the muslim minority which went down really well with their spicy kebabs which they cooked on little fires in front of you.

I had to stay in Kunming for 4 days while I waited for my Thai visa. Not every minute of it was bad, I enjoyed the museum and there was a nice park, but I was definately glad to leave.

---