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Published: June 28th 2014
TURPAN : WEDNESDAY 25.6.14. REST DAY. ( apologies if this first comment previously posted. Cannot recall!!)
Western China has its own local time zone as well as Beijing time. Local time is 2 hours behind Beijing time. More confusing than Queensland Summer/ daylight saving time. TDA is working on Beijing time.
Apparently the provided breakfast was beyond description in a negative way, so passed, and went to John's Place for a slow delivered meal of pancake and yogurt, mushroom omelette, banana smoothie. It sounds better than it was!
Afterwards a few of us hired a van and went to the local winery, Chateau Tuoling, not far out of town. Very impressive operation, similar to the larger Barossa Valley wineries, in size and amenity. After viewing the cellar and displays we sampled their white and red wines. All quite expensive to purchase- $ 50+. The white I think was a Semillon, passable; a red Cabernet Sauvignon, passable and a second red which tasted like a sherry or tokay, awful. None were worthy of bottle purchase in my view, and after a day in a hot truck over bumpy roads, would have been undrinkable.
Later we went to "TURPAN KAREZ PARADISE", an underground water channel- aqueduct constructed over 2000 years ago, and considered an engineering feat on par with the Great - Wall and the Beijing - Hangzhou Great Channel. The channels distribute water throughout western China from HAMI, to Urumqi, to TURPAN, and major centres. The water flows underground by gravity avoiding sun dehydration, and has enabled the deserts to be settled and cultivated. The complex also housed the grape drying towers, so it was possible to view how that worked.
An interesting morning topped off by visiting the TURPAN bazaar. Mainly clothing, some tourist knick knacks and cloth. Interesting. The Silk Road definitely opened China up to Middle Eastern cultures, clothing and food. The women's clothing is considerably brighter in colour and style and worn with greater flair than Chinese traditional style clothing seen further east.
TURPAN to DESERT CAMP: THURSDAY 26.6.14
Distance: 150 Kms SubT. 3,650 Kms Bal 8764 Kms ( 40 extra Kms- poor marking)
Road Condition: highway. Good
Weather: rain 90% of day. Medium wind
Time in Saddle: 10 hrs Av Speed: av. 15
kph.
Elevation: 2500 m : Decent minimal
Calories burned : 5000+
Decided to 'clean' the bike yesterday afternoon. Parked no flat, rolled it out, flat tyre. Very frustrating. Then determined that the tube patched a few days ago failed, glue didn't bind. Next town will seek out additional tubes. Couldn't find the cause, but suspect it was fine wire from truck tyres, and possibly as tyre cooled, hole opened up. Then cleaned bike. Maybe a fruitless effort as next riding day has dust. Also learned that the distance is 110kms, 2500 m uphill over 40 Kms after lunch.
It was 110 Kms, but due to tagging mistake, not corrected until after we passed, rode an extra 40kms of uphill. Not happy, as after lunch the big climb started. Arrived at camp spent. Waited periodically for bus but it never arrived as it was following a very slow rider. On the brighter it was in retrospect good to have made the climb, BUT ONLY IN RETROSPECT!
Scenery was drab flat stone for the most part, sprinkled with wind turbines. There MUST be minerals underground to make up for the drab
surface!
Stopped raining when I arrived at camp. I was covered head to foot in black soot/ dust. Marvelleous. Spent some time with baby wipes.
Many are now down with vomiting and diarrhoea. Not good.
Campsite surrounded by mountain tops which in good light look appealing, however am getting over the lunar look. A beach would be nice, or better yet, our balcony with a glass of wine!
Before bed we had a visit from the police and a SWAT TEAM ( name plastered on there military looking vehicle). Apparently someone had rung the police about our camp. They arrived jumping out of the car with machine guns. All rather disturbing, however the bigger issue was whether we would need to pack up and move. Thankfully the officer in charge after hours of discussion allowed us to stay. We are also camping tomorrow night so we are all keen to see what happens.
Time for bed. It's now 8.30.
Now morning. Last night very little sleep. Would estimate that 500 trucks minimum passed the camp site, all needing to change gears near the crest
of the hill. Perhaps a shift would have been better!
Mountain Camp to. ????? City
Distance: 160 Kms SubT. Kms Bal Kms
Road Condition: highway. Good but shoulder difficult with tyre wire, etc.
Weather: Dry blue sky. Medium wind
Time in Saddle: 7 hrs Av Speed: 22 av. kph.
Elevation: 800 m : Decent -
Calories burned : 5000+ m
Today I started out early alone. Beautiful crisp morning, mountains and desert looked stunning. A good downhill was an added bonus.
Covered the initial 70 km in a little over 3 hrs, including an 800 m climb. Surprised myself after yesterday's long ride.
At lunch I learned that the police had declined the camping request, so the tour leader was forced to find hotel lodgings for the group ( no easy feat I think). This necessitated an extra 40 km in distance, which turned out not to be to bad.
Unfortunately, I then had a flat. There are so many trucks using the road, I estimate that at least a thousand large trucks and trailers pass me daily, covering
us with exhaust fumes, road dust, and throwing wire from broken tyres onto the verge were we are forced to ride. In the rain yesterday, I was blackened from shoes to neck. It takes ages to hand wash the resultant mess. It's also choice climbing into a silk sheet bag only washed by baby wipes at a camp site, which doesn't go dark until about 10 pm
The wire is causing puncture havoc. Daily there are multiple flat tyre issues. Today I had my third flat, 3 in 6 days. Nil previously. I think only one person hasn't had 1 flat. So this afternoon I spent an hour or more learning the fine art of puncture repair and patching courtesy of Lloyd Strong who has embarked on many cycle tours and who before his retirement built cars. Hopefully they will stay inflated.
A serious accident happened this afternoon not more than 500 metres from the hotel. My room mate, Ron, and I were riding the last 40 Kms together. As we approached the lighted intersection about 100 meters out, Ron started to uncleat his shoe from the pedal foot, so he could stand at
the lights, as there was a red light. His cleat was stuck and he looked down to investigate. In doing so he turned his handlebars at right angle to his direction. Travelling at about 25 kph, the bike tipped him over, causing him to slide along the bitumen on a busy road. I got off my bike, ran to help. He was severely concussed and unconscious. I thought he was dead as there was no sound. A truck driver also stopped and together we rolled Ron onto his side to assist breathing. I was concerned about his neck. We couldn't leave him on the road and gingerly moved him to the curb. The driver supported his back and neck whist I attempted to call the tour leader, the protocol established just two days ago. The phone didn't connect. Luckily more riders arrived, one of whom was an experienced nurse. She couldn't establish a pulse for a few minutes. It later counted 40pm. Very low. Finally Ron came back into consciousness but had no memory. We finally raised the TL, POLICE AND AMBULANCE. The TL arrived with Dr Clare, one of the riders, who did an initial overview. Then the ambulance
arrived and she and Ron left for hospital. I learned from her a few moments ago that Ron has a few broken ribs, fluid on the lungs, a broken collar bone, severe facial lacerations and severe concussion. He is to be transported to a big city hospital for further treatment and a determination of his future itinerary. Presumably TDA will be in contact with family. Should hear from TL in the morning.
Very disconcerting, third serious incident, two of which I have been close to. Will need to keep positive and vigilant. These large trucks driving so close to us do cause me concern, although the drivers of most seem to be reasonable.
Ron was only saying to me as I changed my tyre that he was very tired, poor sleep, the runs, and repetitive long daily distances. As I have said earlier many others are also experiencing fatigue induced illness. Don't know what the solution is for either rider or TDA.
KORLA:
Distance: 95 Kms SubT. 3,895 Kms Bal 8519 Kms
Road Condition: highway. Good but shoulder difficult with tyre wire, etc.
Weather: Dry blue sky. Medium wind
Time in Saddle: 5 hrs Av Speed: 20 av. kph.
Elevation: ? m : Decent ?
Calories burned : 4230 m
Slept ok but very stiff and sore in shoulders. Stress I believe after yesterday. Ron relocated last night by ambulance to Korla hospital.
3 Kms from start, rear tyre blew out. Big hole. Needed to patch tyre before a new tube. Have no other new tubes now. Will need to seek out a shop.
Hard day although not as long as others. Straight boring highway. Shoulders got worse as day wore on, as did the road shoulder. Littered with tyre debris, glass and sharp stone. Couldn't take eyes off surface. Trucks by the score bolstered us at every passing.
After lunch 6 of us were stopped by police for riding along freeway. Shunted off to a minor road with 20 Kms to go. Better riding surface but not as good a gradient. Arrived in Korla. A huge city, who knew, very bad smog. Now showered, clothes washed, tyre patched(xx), now for something to eat.
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Georgie
non-member comment
I hope that you managed to find something to eat!!! Definitely have had some interesting days xxx