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Published: July 11th 2006
Itinerary: Lhasa -- Shigatsu -- Dingri -- Mt. Everest base camp -- Gyangtse -- Lhasa -- Mila Mountain -- Basong Lake -- Linzhi -- Lhasa -- Darnshung -- Namtso Lake -- Yangachen -- Lhasa.
After two weeks of restless traveling in Tibet, I have finally slowed down my pulse, settled in the heart of Tibet -- Lhasa, to learn the Tibetan script and to clearify my thoughts on this mysterious place.
One of my western friend used to describe us, the Chinese, as materialists. I did not refute. Somehow I personally think it is so true. Some of us are still pursuing money blindly, hoping one day they can dig up the key for a treasure house, and live with it for the rest of their lives in ultimate happiness. Sometimes when I express my unmaterial dream in front of my relatives, I get laughed at terribly. But I do think it is reasonable that people yearn for something that was once missing in their lives. The Chinese, having gone through wars, poverty, and the cultural revolution, I do not find this materialism strange. The good thing is most of us are finding our own values back.
However
Plateau
DarnshungI chose to leave home, to leave my comfort zone, to find a sense of purity which is missing in my city life, to travel to the Qinghai-Tibet plateau on the far west of China. Where I can find people with pure faces and pristine eyes; where I can feel that the people's hearts are as clean as the water of the Namtso Lake; where I can dress up like a lovely Tibetan girl, run aross the plain after the sheeps and yaks under majestic sun and crystal blue sky.
In fact, the scenery of Tibet is really fascinating. The sky is always blue. The soft clouds give you an illusion that one can reach out for it, deliever to his/her mouth, then it will melt like marshmallows. The weather is so low in humidity that our clothes dry in hours after laundry. Tough plants scatter on sand-stones plain, along with yaks, sheeps, and ponies sun tanning. Nomadic Tibetan men come out of their tents, laying on the grass and languidly smoking their herbs. At the far end of the plain, there are continuous stretches of mountains. Turn around for 360 degrees you will see mountains from every angle,
some with snow capping on top. In Tibetan Buddhism, everything in the universe has a soul. And the souls are interconnected with each other, emitting a forceful energy that will never fade.
Tibetan people follow the cycle of life. Their feces land directly on the plain, becoming fertilizers for the highland barley grains and grass. The grains then will be milled to be tsampa or be fermented into wine. The grass is the main food source for yaks and sheeps. Meats are valuable and so as the milk, an important ingredient for yak butter tea. The Tibetan don't drink yak butter tea like the way we drink green tea. They treat it like water and intake about 30 cups a day. After the yak shits get dried, they can be burned as fuel. Solar energy is widely used for boiling water. Generations after generations, the Tibetans rely on their natural resources. After they die, their bodies get swallowed by the vultures in sky funerals. It is considered to be a way to return themselves back to the nature... Everything is in perfect balance.
Tibetan people have tall cheek bones. That's why after many years under the sun, the
energy of sunshine accumulates and leaves two pieces of red mark on their faces. That colour make them look very approachable. Whereas no matter how long I stay under the sun, the red mark ignores my flat cheeks and climbs on my nose. Many times, we get invited by them to sit down for a cup of yak butter tea. Even though we can not communicate by words, the smiles do it all. Occasionally, I join them to work together. They love singing when working. They encourage me to do the same thing. Of course I feel embarrassed to open my mouth to accomany their powerful voices. I tried, they laughed. I tried again, they laughed harder. I tried the third time, we started to sing together. I realise that in such vast space the voices are boundless. When you dare to put down your mental burden of embarrassement, then your voice will flow out smoothly and it carries an unbeatable strength.
The Potala palace in Lhasa has its own dignity and solemnity that can not be described in words. I went there again this early morning. Everyday, the Tibetan pilgrim rotate around the palace, turning countless prayer wheels.
Some of them prostrate forward. Each prostration can only bring them so far. Allen tried it for two minutes. It is so energy consuming for this strong young man. How can you imagine that the elder Tibetans do it for hours, months, years? Some die before reaching their destinations. It was early, I was the only Han among thousands of Tibetans, followed their path around the palace. It was an emotional feeling. I'm deeply moved.
Standing facing the Potala, if you turn your head then you'll see a square with a Chinese national flag flying on the opposite side. Between them, vehicles running endlessly on the broad Beijing road. Modernity has created a big gap between those two structures.
We loved the monasteries. It is the place for wisdom and humanity to blossom. We joined the little monks for scripture chanting. We have seen hundreds of monks debating on Buddhism philosophy. My travel companions don't like to follow the tourist crowd. So we pierced through the rooms which are not supposed to open for visitors. Such a bonus, we reached the top chamber of that monestery. A master has just finished his sutra study. He slowly raised his
head, you can feel the humanity on his face. So peaceful. He came out of the room and invited us to sit down for water and tsampa. We were sitting on the highest spot of the monastery, maybe even the whole town. You can tell that many years of Buddhism practicing has given him the wisdom. Combining with blue sky, the sound of birds, and the solemn monastery, it is a beautiful picture that emits a strong sense of serenity that I have never felt before.
We started talking, soon the Tibetan railway will increase tourists in Tibet by 400,000 people/year. We asked his opinion on this. He sank in deep thoughts, then said," It is a complicated question." He paused, we knew that he had something else to say. "By then, all the ticket prices for monasteries will be doubled. In fact, monasteries should be all free. Free for everybody." He spoke calmly. He looked out to the blue sky, then continued, "Before, there were more than 20,000 monks here, but only 800 remained until now. Many of them fled to India and Nepal. Only the firm-hearted ones stay." He looked far forward, his vision seems reaching beyond
the sky, beyond the mountains. From his eyes, I could see humankindness and forgiveness, the two elements which bring the world back to its harmonic state. I turned my head away, tried to hide my tears.
The second day, we came again to visit him. One of his student told us that he was lecturing. We waited, waited. Then he was back. He went into his room directly. Through the window we saw that he was studying sutra. We waited, waited. Didn't want to disturb him, so we let his student to imform his master that we were about to leave. Surprisingly, we got invited inside, he told us that he had no time for visitors today. Then he chanted mantra with a hand holding something. After a minute, his student delivered it to us. It was 3 sutra necklaces. We all droped to our knees, to accept such great honour. On my neck, it shines with endless energy and humanity. I am holding on to it.
In Tibet, we have also visited many beautiful places. The Mt. Everest and Namtso Lake. On the way up, our bus got a flat tire. And we ran into road constructions.
Yak skull
with snow capped mountains for background Everywhere was under constructions right now to prepare for July 1st. The roads were dusty. A breeze came, dust flew up to block my view, to cover up the clothes and faces of the Tibetan construction workers. Original 7 hours of ride took us 16 hours. We have reached an altitude of 5000-6000 meters. In those days the temperature droped to freezing. Electricity is only available from 9pm to 11pm. After our dinner, we walked back to our hotel in dark.(Thanks for Barry's flashlight!) Raise our head, Oh! the stars were so big and bright! It was the first time I get so close to them. Our hotel was actually an iron tent with beds in it. The water was not sufficient for face washing and teeth brushing. Don't even fancy showers. We flossed our teeth then went to bed right away. The more hardship I experience, the more I appreciate the beautiful scenery along the way. And the more I admire the strength of the Tibetan nomads, who live happily in such harsh environment.
However, I am heartbroken to see that money is gradually taking away people's believe and humanity. Cement has piling up in cities. Sometimes I
sheeps
Their heads get tie up, getting ready for milk sheding. get followed by kids for half an hour just for a few cents. There are fake monks extending their arms out to tourists. And some of the people who sell Tibetan arts and crafts, yelling 30 yuans for a prayer wheel which only worth 8 yuans when I asked the price in Chinese. And the price shoots up to 150 when I spoke English. In Shigatsu when darkness approaches, shops under the name of "hair salon" emit dim pink lights. Women with almost bare sexy legs waiting to feed men's ego. Allen says it's the negative effect of Han immigration. But I think they are lost in the world of materialism. Not just in China, you can find this anywhere in SE Asia, such as Thailand, Vietnam,
Cambodia...
No matter where it is in the world, a nation, or a group of people must hold firm to its own culture, understand its values and at the same time feel proud of it, then they can gradually open up the door and embrace their tourists and travelers with the rich heritage. In Tibet, I see the old generation of people, dressed in traditional costumes, pilgriming accompanied by chanting of the
six-syllable mantra, neglecting the flashlights of the tourists' cameras. I see some monks clad in saffron, concentrating on the sutra study in monasteries, ignoring the noises made by the visitors. Their hearts are unshaken by any outside distraction. Still in Tibet, I've followed the pupils in Chinese uniforms to their school. On campus, Chinese flags flying in air. In the classroom, I can't find one word in Tibetan. Instead, I can only see the familiar Chinese characters, despite that all kids are Tibetan. They study Tibetan, Chinese, English and Math. It seems like they are ready for the flood of tourists. One Tibetan kid I saw, wore a western baseball cap, a NBA jersey, rode a fancy bike. You can see many of them in the big cities. I've also talked to a Tibet University graduate student. She was in the tourism faculty. This year, Tour guides graduated from school will be increased by 300 people. She told me that at her home, parents wake up early in the morning to worship Buddha. But the young generation don't do it anymore. In Linzhi, I couldn't even feel any Tibetan culture. People stared at my Tibetan costume as if they have
never seen one.
It's good to see that the education system has come to Tibet. It will help many uneducated kids, as well as the spread of Tibetan medicine. However, if education only means economic growth, then what about the rich culture that has rooted so deeply in their society?
Right now, I am sitting in the GuXiuNa books bar on Beijing Road in Lhasa. It's a really nice bar with Tibetan arts and crafts decorations, and it houses many books about Tibetan culture. GuXiuNa in Tibetan means a practicer in Buddhism. I rest my mind in the soft music and the smell of Tibetan incense, feeling the time passing by in a quiet Lhasa afternoon. Today, June 28th, I have two more days to soak up this peaceful atmosphere. I will also wait, for the transition of Qinghai-Tibet railway.
As I have mentioned before, traveling is so good that it helps understanding between people and cultures. However, if this generation of Tibetan don't even understand their own culture, what is left for the outsiders to understand? If the Qinghai-Tibet Railway only brings in loads of tourists, what heritage is left after the noises and trash? Being
in Tibet for 3 weeks, I see, I listen, and I think that people are only seeking the economic growth on this "unwealthy" land, not the bridge for exchange of cultures.
On the way to Namtso lake, as I see the concrete Qinghai-Tibet railway standing on the vast plateau waiting for its first functioning on July 1st. Again, I couldn't control my emotion. Tears fill my eyes. Soon this land will be replaced by cement. This quiet and spiritual atmosphere will never be present. The animals will not run free. Instead, they'll be constrained in iron cages. I can only find this purity in my memory.
The government claims that building the Qinghai-Tibet Railway will not hurt any trees or plants. To me, it is impossible to reach a sheep's heart without cutting trough its skin. Originally the sheep is well-built and healthy. If people insists to make it like a western sheep and keep feeding it with growth hormone and nutrients, soon it will be overdozed. It will be ruined.
Today, June 29th, when I walked back from Potala Palace to my hotel, I saw many Chinese flags hanging outside of the shops. I change my
mind, I might leave Tibet tomorrow.
Tourists bring in outside information, which has a strong impact on the local culture. People have forgotten what is the most important thing in their lives.Money? Fame? Relationship with people? What brings them the ultimate happiness?
We thought if we can possess something, then we can possess happiness. Until one day when we are firmly sure about our values, we'll understand the happiness always come from ourselves.
Buddhism has taught us one thing,The true happiness is free from attachment.
Tyler once told me,"Shangri-la is not a place, it is a state of mind.''
While we are searching for the pure lands on earth, look for the true Shangri-la which lies within our hearts.
PS: At last, I wanna thank my travelmates and friends, Allen and Aki-san. For being so considerate like two older brothers. And your knowledge and intellegence have inspired me to see and learn more. Love you~
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Eva
non-member comment
wow
Nice pictures. There're people, animals, architecture, landscape...even a tea pot!!