Organising an Overland Trip to Tibet from Kathmandu

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Organising an Overland Trip to Tibet from Kathmandu

When we got to Kathmandu and wanted to book an overland trip to Tibet we were a little confused by all the agents and bad stories we had heard from other travelers. We have decided to add this entry to help others. However we are not a guide book and will just let you know what we did and how it turned out. We had a great time and loved our 35 days in Tibet. Please read our other entries to see what we got up to. This entry is more from a practical perspective to help you before you go.

Chosing a Travel Agent in Kathmandu & Costs

We spent a week in Thamel and Boudanath chatting to agents and giving them our itinerary. We found it very usefull to type up a clear list of places we wanted to see and for how long. Using this they could give us a clear quote and idea of what they could offer. We received a varied response and eventually decided to go with Gorkha International Travels (P.) Ltd. The agent there, Gokul, was a solid guy and knew what we were looking for. He has loads of experience sending tourists into Tibet. He even managed to get us a 45 day Chinese visa, allowing us as much time to explore Lhasa as we wanted. His pricing is also very good compared to what we were quoted elsewhere, and trust me we went around Thamel to all those recomended by the popular guide books.

All the Travel agents in Thames are just that. They only sell a tour with an agency in Lhasa. Now here is the long winded part of it. The agent in Kathmandu sells a trip for an agent in Lhasa and all the agents in Lhasa then subcontract in a guide and a Jeep/ driver from diferent agencies. So even though you think its seamless, who your guide and driver will ultimately be is a bit of a gamble.

Gokul uses an agency headed by Mr Jigme Wangdu. Jigme who we have met several times has been running tours in Tibet for over 15 years and every issue we have encountered on route he has been able to sort out with a single phone call. We have met most of Jigmes guides at some point along our trip and all of them can speak fluent English, Tibeatan and Chinese. Our Guide ,Dhondup was amazing and his knowledge of the Buddhist faith unreal. He was by our side when we wanted him to be and disappeared when we didn't. He got us out of sticky situations and helped us make tough decisions when they were needed. He is very eager to show you everything at speed and sometimes needs to be slowed down a little.

From a cost perspective we opted for the jeep, driver, guide and B&B. Having completed the trip I would recommend just going for a Jeep, driver, and guide. You will save a lot by organising accomodation and food with the guide while on the tour.

The agency we used in Kathmandu:
Gorkha International Travels (P.) Ltd.
Gokul Adhikari
email : [e-mail]
web: www.gtravel-nepal.com
Would we use them again: Definately

Agents in Lhasa:
Tibet M & R International Travel Service
Jigme Wangdu
email: [e-mail]
Would we use them again: Definately

Guide Agency:
Tibet Mountains & Lakes Travel Service
Dhondup
email: [e-mail]
web: www.trekking-tours-tibet.com
Would we use them again: Definately


Altitude

Altitude is a bit like Radiation poisioning - you can't see it but when it gets you, you're fucked. Please ensure you ascend slowly. In our 5 weeks on the plateau we met and heard of so many peolple cutting it short and returning to Kathmandu/Lhasa due to the altitude. Drink loads of water, No booze and listen to your body. Rather add a few extra days to aclimatise and take some oxygen just in case. If attempting the Kora around Kailash, be careful. There have been 7 deaths this season from the altitude alone. AMS (Acute Mountain sickness) gets worse at night as the O2 levels drop. Be prepared for a few bad nights sleep. Talk to your guide they have seen it before, but dont rely on them for everything. Be aware of how high you are going and over what time.


Chinese & Their Permits

If traveling to the western areas of Tibet there is no understatement in saying you will require a fist full of permits. Your guide will take care of all of them. You will be required to register with the PSB (Police) when you stay over in many of the towns, Your guide should sort this all out for you. Many of the permits can only be applied for on route so dont expect them to be all sorted before you get there no matter what the agents tell you. If your guide is good he will get them while you are eating sleeping etc and you wont even know they are being applied for. We passed in excess of 20 checkposts in our 5 weeks. We were hoping to meet and give a lift to any independant travelers we met. We met none and the strict permit system in place since 2007 seems to be putting a lid on the lone traveler.

The Tibetan People

We met the most amazing, friendly and kind people throughout Tibet. Constant offers of Cigarettes and green tea and big smiles all round. From our guide, driver to the girls in the nomad tents. Everyone carried a smile and was interested in who we are and where we came from. I will truly miss the Tibetans. If you make it out this far, I recommend spending as much time with the people as you do spending in the Monasteries and ruins.

Toilets

Western Tibet has the worst toilets in the world! We have been in India and Nepal several times for long periods and thought we had found the worst. Not true. The Tibetan style hole in the floor on the second floor so your dingdong can be extracted for fertilizer works. However if the wind is blowing a gust may blow from beneath you throwing any chance of going. In Chiu village and several others the desert will have to do as the pile of dingdong wants to touch you, flee for a rock with a good view, its far more humaine.

Travel By Jeep - October's new Highway

The new highway from Lhasa to Ali in the far west is due for completion in October and will make travel to the west alot easier. Currently the roads are non existant in places and a 4x4 is a necessity. Road closures during the day for taring are the norm forcing you to drive at night which comes with its own problems. (We landed up in a freezing lake at 3am) The roads are rough, dusty and an average of 30km is common place. (we burst 3 tyres in the west) The new road will make travel easier and shorter however it will take a lot of the fun out of the drive. It will also bring the migration of Chinese business that the east of Tibet has experienced. This will ultimately change the look, feel and character of the west. On the flip side it will bring medical, education and supplies to a poor area of the world. We enjoyed the off road adventure, however if you treasure your ass wait till the new highway is in place before planning your trip. Make sure you have music, an MP3 player attached to the radio is an essential. Ours died in the lake and it changed the way we saw an 8hr journey.

Food

Bring food from Kathmandu. Not a lot, just what you feel tastes good. The Pork dumplings and dishwater for breakfast get a little too much after awhile. You will need some tasty stuff in the west, once in the east the food is fine and no need to carry your own. Noodle fans will love the west as its all thats available in most places. MoMO's can be found but you have to hunt them out. We were really glad we brought muslei and honey from Nepal.

Internet

As you know the Chinese firewall is a solid obstical. No Facebook allowed so have a few Proxy servers lined up before you get here. Though they shut them down as fast as you can find them. The PC's are not the latest and greatest by any means but you can send an email.

Definately Bring!

A torch
Waterproof bags
Muslie and powdered milk
MP3 player and car radio attachment
Lonely planet - Tibet hidden in your bag, if they ask if you have one - say no! (they will confiscate them at the border.)

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Photos

Gorkha International Travels (p.) Ltd.
The travel agent we used in Thamel Kathmandu - Ensure you speak to Gokul Adhikari for tours to Tibet

Gorkha International Travels (p.) Ltd.
The travel agent we used in Thamel Kathmandu - Ensure you speak to Gokul Adhikari for tours to Tibet

Suraj Panta - The best Guide in Nepal!
If your heading to the Tibetan border make sure he takes you - it will be an experience in itself

Comments

[suraj panta]

dhandyabad
thank you very much for the picture, hopefully see you again in nepals himalayas, best of luck,and have a nice journey,