Trip to Shigatse

---

Trip to Shigatse



Again we started off with at 0900hrs this time without the 2 Hong Kong girls, and Fernando the Italian who lives in Spain. A long 240km drive lay ahead ofus. After leaving the main road to Shigatse we drove through secondary roads all lined with trees. There were bad patches in places but the general condition was manageable. We had to cross two mountain ranges the first to descend to Yamdrok lake, first pass being at 5000m. We stopped at two places the first one to view where we came from and the second one to see where we were going to. At the second stop we could see the shining blue lake beneath was towered over by a NegenKhangsa which was covered with snow. From the pass we descended to the lake shore. Tibetans have three most important lakes, The Namatso, Yandrok andManasarover in western Tibet. It was indicated that the height of the lake was 4100m. It is classified as a salt water lake but I could not taste any appreciable amount of salt in the water. We had this magnificent scenery with us for some time as we had to drive around the lake for a considerable time. Then we went through the town of Lhatse where we had some lunch. Next port of call was Pelkhor Monastry which was very important for Tibetan Buddhism as it housed chapels for all three sects in one building. Outside there was the famous Kumbum, house of a lakh (1, 00, 000) statues, a beautiful white decorated building with umpteen statues. From Pelkhor Monastry we started climbing again this time when we reached the pass it was nearly 5200m. We did not stop there, instead descended 100m for a better view point for the Karola Glacier. The mountain (Nugenkhangsa) was over 7,000m from which this glacier originates. A few photographs and we were back on the trail again. We had another stop which I did not know what was for, only later was to be told that was just for delay as were being monitored over a long stretch of road for speed violations. Funny thing was that there were policemen, at the stop, drinking tea/beer? with the drivers and both knew quite well why they were there.



We got into Shigatse by 1930hrs. The Zang Ba Hotel was excellent. It was roomy and the bathroom was modern, excellent intenet connection, a far cry from any other place I stayed in Tibet. Most went out for a stroll on the town and for dinner. I declined both, had a shower and retired to bed as I had a started to have stomach problems. Dreading the climb to Tushilumpo monastery in the morning but still looking forward to it.



I had more breathing problems at night and could barely sleep. Was thinking of getting an oxygen tube in the morning before we go to TushiLhumpomonastery. In the morning it was bit better and I thought I could do without the oxygen. I attributed my problem with discontinuing my Chinese medication as I had no problems at Namotso Lake a couple of days ago at 4400m altitude. Shigatse was only at 3800m may be 300m higher than Lhasa. Strangely enough most in the group also had problems even though they had experienced no problems before.



Before we get to TushiLhumpo Monastery just some observations. There are 3 sects of Tibetan Buddhism and 3 head Lamas. Dalai Lama, Panchan Lama and Kama Pa in that order of importance. The first and the last are in India, the middle one taken to Beijijng for his "education" when he was nine. Of the current three only Panchan Lama's picture are visible anywhere, pictures of the other two are banned by the Chinese authorities. In their place pictures of previous heads are depicted. Panchan Lama currently lives in Beijing. Schools in China it is taught that Tibet was always part of China going back at least two millennia. In fact China annexed Tibet only during the Cultural Revolution. Poor Tibetans could not lift a finger against the might of the Red Army and Dalai Lama had to seek asylum in India. China had been “Chinising” Tibet ever since. As a master stroke they have in effect nationalized Tibetan Buddhism with paying a wage and may be a pension to the monks, starting 3 years ago, keeping all the offerings by the devotees, but may getting the support of the monks. Entrepreneurship that China has shown in international areas has also been applied here. It is sad to see a nation's heritage being wiped, but with changes that has already in China it may be better for the ordinary Tibetan. As changes continue in Beijing there still may be a solution to Tibet. Only problem then could be the mineral wealth Tibet has and China need . China is already making some effort to reduce the military state in Tibet. It is hope on a very long thread as no country is willing to say anything against China’s might. However it is a shame to see a great culture reduced to ignobility. All signs are in large bold Chinese characters whereas Tibetan is scribbled in small, above it. At the Lhasa airport the only Tibetan sign I saw was scribbled over a Tibetan artifact shop. The people are helpless to do anything as any dissent is suppressed with an iron first. The more the Chinese get worried about dissent, the harsher the regime will get.



Back to the trip. TushiLhampo, one of the largest monasteries in Tibet was founded by the Gelupa sect, whose leader was the first Dalai Lama. The tolerance and respect shown to each other by the three different sects put shame on the middle east religions, Catholic and Protestant, Sunni and Shia who would rather tolerate others rather than their own kin. There were different chapels with, tombs of Lamas, statues of Sakyamuni (Buddha, in his past, present and future, Maitreya) forms. In addition there was a great assembly hall. Some of the statues were more than 10m tall. The tombs were again heavily gilded, with precious stones. Though earlier only one Lama was entombed in one tomb since 1980s the trend is to entomb more than one.



Again the more striking thing for me was the devotion shown by the common men and women. Offerings included butter or ghee for lamps, trivial jewelry and RMB notes of all denominations. They do not pay any entrance fee, so I felt a little less guilty not giving any offering as it all go to the same coffers.



It took us less than 6 hours to get back to Lhasa on the Friendship Highway. Road conditions were good. Atleast 5 times we had to stop and wait up to 20 minutes to beat the speed trap. Most of the distance we were following the "Yelvan" river which was a tributary of the Brahmaputra river which flows into the Bengal Delta. In the evening I went out with Mark, Sam, Ali and Clarisse for the last shared meal. After the initial bite I left for the preparations for an early departure as I had leave the hotel latest 0445hrs to catch the 0725 Air Tibet flight to Chengdu.







The new Trunk road to the airport has reduced the distance by more than a quarter but the airport is still more than 60km away from downtown Lhasa. As in the case of the Railway station the airport also is made to a grand scale. Though only one international connection (to Kathmandu) it is unlikely to change as China want to make sure that access to Tibet is only through mainland until there is no threat of dissent from inside or out.

---