Day 326 - "Is there a bathroom near here"

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After an awful nights sleep it was touch and go if we were going to be making our journey today, as Ed did not want to be too far from the bathroom. However after some salt and sugar solution and various things (we'll spare you the details), we give it a slow go. Firstly we visit the monastery of Pelkor Chode (built 1418) and the Kumbum Stupa. In the Pelkhor Chode we were treated to a very special sight of monks chanting in traditional dress, as well as many pilgrims bustling around us.

The Kumbum Stupa was built in 1440 and houses 1,000 buddhas and 15th Century murals. The view from the top is very impressive down on the valley of Gyantse.

Driving the 90km to Shigatse, we take refuge in the hotel after a visit to a pharmacy to beef up the medicine for Ed, as he is back with a 38 degree temperature and cramps. What with Ed sleeping most of the afternoon, Gemma goes with Pasang to Thasilhunpo Monastery, home of the Panchen Lama (meaning great teacher, the second most important Lama after the Dalai Lama. The Panchen Lama is resident in China, whereas the Dalai Lama has sought refuge in India). Here you can see the Stupas (like coffins) of all the Panchen Lama’s before the current 11th one who incidently is about 21 years old today, though was selected when he was only 6 years old as the successor. He is currently in Beijing learning how to be a great teacher.

Once one of the largest monasteries in Tibet with over 6,000 monks, present day there are around 800. In one of the temples there housed a 26m tall Jampa (Maitreya), the Future Buddha who is sitting on a giant Lotus flower. The body was cast in over a hundred tons of copper and brass and the exterior was gilded in nearly 300kg of gold!! No photos I am afraid - not at 150yuan for the privilege.

The rest of the day was put to good use with us eventually getting around to choosing our wedding photos, quite appropriate at 11 months to the day, as well as some singing along to our walkman while the many tablets Ed has been given hopefully work their magic.

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