Jiuzhaigou National Park

---

After spending a lot of time in cities around China we were really getting ready to see some rural areas of China and experience some lush greenery so Jiuzhaigou sounded perfect for its beautiful national park and the surrounding Tibetan villages.

We flew to Chengdu from Shanghai so that we could take the bus there. Unfortunately we couldn't get a flight directly from shanghai to Jiuzhaigou as this would have been far easier. We knew the bus was going to be long but was hoping it was worth it.

The bus journey from Chengdu was pretty uneventful we slept quite a bit of the way and then woke for the final 4-5 hours, watching the beautiful scenery unfold in front of us. It was snowing quite heavily as we got around half way and the roads were becoming more and more icy. The mountain road was extremely windey with sheer drops to the river below, so given the icy conditions and the Chinese driving it was a bit hairy to say the least but we made it in one piece after 9.5 hours.

The temperature was well below zero and the area covered in snow so our search for greenery wasnt really panning out quite as we had hoped. As usual we got a little lost following the not so simple directions given to us by our hostel (2 mins from China Hotel my arse), but luckily a nice girl who spoke some English phoned our hostel and the man walked up to find us.

The hostel was freezing, temperatures I have never experienced before. The rooms was lovely and clean and did provide electric blankets (thank god) as there was no heating an the room was actually colder than outside. We had twin beds but spent both nights cuddled up in one single bed with about 4 layers of clothing on and the electric blanket turned up full. It was so cold that our shampoo actually froze!!!!

The next day was our trip to the national park. We got there around 9:30am and took the bus straight up to the top of the east side of the park. At first they were not sure the buses could go up the mountain because of the ice, but after a 30 minute wait we were picked up and dropped off at the top by a massive lake called Long Lake. The scenes were truly breathtaking with the snowy mountains in the background and reflecting in the crystal clear cobalt blue water. There was not a sound around us and straight away I thought the long bus ride and the artic temperatures were worth it.

We spent a while around a few lakes on the east side. The bus driver dropped us at another lake slightly lower down the mountain and obviously the others on the bus understood the conducter say he would be driving back down and we were to follow the lake pathway to another lake and then onto the bus stop where we could wait For another shuttle. As we still have not picked up any of the lingo (despite the Chinese chatting away to us all the time and just looking at us strangely when we shake our heads to say we don't have a clue what your rambling on about) we obviously didn't get these instructions so after walking down the steps to the first lake we walked back up to get the bus.

When we finally got to the top of the million steps we saw the bus and walked towards it only for it to drive off just as we reached it. We thought it was a joke and that he was going to stop for us, but he didn't he just carried on. We didn't have a clue where we were or where we needed to go and couldn't see anyone else from our bus so just started walking down the road hoping we wouldn't have to walk the entire 18km back. Luckily after a couple of k's we reached the next bus stop and saw all the others from our bus - they had obviously taken the scenic route. Oh well we are used to getting lost now so we just laughed at ourselves yet again.

After this we took the bus back down to the meeting point and got another bus up to the otherside of the park. Here we decided to walk our way back down stopping at each lake, however due to the weather conditions a lot of the lake pathways were closed so we had to walk along the roads but we still had great views. The best part of the day was when we reached Pearl Shalls waterfall. We weren't expecting the waterfall to be as big and we got to walk down some steps right next to it so could feel the spray of water on us as it hit the bottom.

After this waterfall area and a couple more smaller waterfalls and lakes we made our way back out of the park having thoroughly enjoyed the scenery, fresh air and hiking in the snow. We originally planned to have 2 days in the park but because of the weather and some parts being closed 1 day was sufficient so we arranged to get a bus back to Chengdu the following day and check out early, plus I was getting concerned I might actually die of hypothermia if I didn't leave soon.

The bus journey back was slightly more adventurous than on the way. As with our usual luck we were seated near the back of the coach next to the bin. Now if you've read my previous blogs about China you'll know that the hygiene is not the best and instead of using bins for rubbish they normally use them to spit in or for their children to go to toilet in, we thought oh this is great.

After an hour or so the fun began, the lady sitting opposite to us started having travel sickness and was being sick quite loudly into a plastic bag. This went on for a while before another person also started being sick. Seemed to be catching as before we knew it the lady who was being sick was sitting on the floor next to Pete being sick directly into the bin with her two children also throwing up. This went on for the entire journey and luckily for me I was sitting next to the window as Pete at one point had the lady's head resting on his legs. At one point I had visions of Pete getting puked on, which I would, have found rather funny but I don't think he would have seen the funny side.....

We did feel sorry for them as its not nice feeling so ill and the two young children was so good they made no fuss whatsoever, but they could have at least emptied the bin out when we stopped off for breaks. It was pretty hilarious listening to about four people hurling for around 6-7 hours, something prob 6 weeks ago would have made me throw up too but I've gotten used to China and its funny things so they don't really phase me anymore.

Overall our trip to Jiuzhaigou was definitely an adventure and although we had to endure 18 hours in total on a bus with people being sick, the park was so beautiful especially with the snow which we weren't expecting, that it was all worth it.

Tips:

If you are visiting in the winter months (November onwards) expect to see snow and that some areas particularly the highest parts might not be open. I would call ahead or check with the local hostels.

We stayed a little further out from the national park (approx 3-4km) but its easy to get there by cab or bus.

Unless you particularly want to die of the cold make sure in the winter you have plenty of warm clothes as you might need to sleep in them too. I would check with the hostel/hotel your booking if they have heating.

If going in any of the other three seasons a two day pass would be better (its only £2 extra for the second day) and you will definitely need two days if you plan on hiking all the trails from the top to the bottom. In winter most trails are closed (if thes snow) so you'll be getting the bus a lot more, therefore you can easily get round within 1 full day.

Winter was quite empty so in my opinion quite a nice time to visit as you won't have to wait long for the buses and will sometimes have the lake all to yourself.

If your getting the bus from Chengdu be prepared for a long journey around some very windey mountain roads. If you get travel sick get a flight (well in advance to make it cheaper) or take some travel sick pills - it's a long time to be feeling ill and the bus driver will only make scheduled stops.

The buses are not hugely comfortable for such a long trip just be aware but overall the park was very worth it.

---