#110 Teaching at Taizhou Teachers College, China ( HARBIN, Part 1: Ice & Snow Extravaganza, and St. Sofia Cathedral )

Asia » China » Heilongjiang » Harbin
January 8th 2009

Published: January 8th 2009

The crowded and long train left my home, cold Taizhou, Jiangsu, at 6:02pm and 24 hours later arrived in what is known as the "coldest" city of China, bone-chilling HARBIN, the capital of China's most northern province of Hailongjiang. The province of Hailongjiang has its borders with arctic Russian-Siberia, and HARBIN looks more like an Eastern-European or Russian city than a Chinese city. What... Read Full Entry

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Hans J. Schneider

Hans

After 38 years as a Foreign Language Teacher and Foreign Language Dept. Chair at Coral Gables Sr. H.S., and A.J. Professor of German at the University of Miami, I have left Florida in June of 2006, where my home is in Miami Beach, Florida, USA. I have just signed another year's teaching-contract (my 8th year now) with Taizhou University in the city of Taizhou, located about 3hrs north of Shanghai, in Jiangsu Province, CHINA. I thought it would be informative for others and rewarding for me personally, to log the progress of my efforts from beginning to end, as a Travel and Photo Jo... full info

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The Snow Carving Gala on Sun Island.

Across the River Songhua, which can be reached by cable car, by horse, or by simply walking across the frozen river, lies Sun Island. It is the center of the fabulous "White Snow Carving Gala", and features some enormous "Snow" carvings. Some were still under construction during my visit. (More photos below!)

Visitors are greeted by 2 life-size steam locomotives, carved back to back.

Workers and artist put on the finishing touches to the snow-sculpture that greets visitors to the Snow Carving Gala on Sun Island.

Many more photos of the "Snow Carving Gala" are featured below.

During my entire stay, the skies were an ice-blue, and it made my stay more enjoyable. But the temperature always remained in deep-arctic-freeze. My new "Northland" winter jacket helped to overwhelm the coldest temperatures I have ever experienced.

Confucius is honored in Harbin.

At the entrance of the Wenmiao Jie (Temple), the visitor is greeted by the statue of China's greatest and most honored teacher, Confucius.

The main temple hall of the Wenmiao Jie

The structure in the Confucian Temple is a sizeable shrine. (More photos in Part 2 of my TravelBlog on Harbin)

The Journey from Taizhou to Harbin begins!

Every night, there is a direct train to Harbin, a journey that will take 24 hours and will cross 8 of China's provinces on its way North.

The train to Harbin is long and crowded.

Seats on any train to any direction in China are difficult to obtain. They can only be purchased 10 days before departure, and then only one-way. The train-attendant waits for the arriving passangers, check their tickets and point the way to their cabin.

Soft Sleeper-berth are the most comfortable way to travel by train in China.

I have settled into my comfortable berth. With the help of my college, I was lucky to purchase a bottom bunk, soft-sleeper. Soft-sleeper berths hold four passengers, and is the most comfortable way to travel by train. A one way ticket from Taizhou to Harbin in soft-sleeper costs 770 Yuan, about $110. When I arrive in Harbin, I must quickly purchase my return ticket to Taizhou.

Wow! I am in Harbin, China

Oh God! It is so cold!! Do don't let the blue skies fool you!! The square of St. Sofia is expansive and a wonderful sight. Seeing the structure, it is hard to believe that this is China. Let me take you on a close-up tour of Harbin's landmark, the Church of St. Sofia. I will let the photos speak for themselves.

St. Sofia Church in Harbin, Heilongjiang, Photo #1

Close-up view from the right side of St. Sofia.

St. Sofia Church in Harbin, Heilongjiang, Photo #2

View along the left side

St. Sofia Church in Harbin, Heilongjiang, Photo #3

A view to the top of the green dome and towers. A lucky shot, as hundreds of pigeons return to their roosts in the towers of the cathedral.

St. Sofia Church in Harbin, Heilongjiang, Photo #4

The sunshine illuminates the green onion shaped dome and towers of St. Sofia Church.

St. Sofia Church in Harbin, Heilongjiang, Photo #5

The interior of St. Sofia houses a photo exhibition of the Russian influence on Harbin. The interior has lost most of its former splendor and has been badly neglected, with most of the wall murals peeling or gone. I would love to have seen the interior during the time, when the cathedral was used as a true place of worship.

St. Sofia Church in Harbin, Heilongjiang, Photo #6

Only a painting of the "Last Supper" graces the front of the cathedral. The rest of the walls have deteriated and have lost all of their former splendor. Here it is not possible to imagine the splendor of a typical Orthodox Cathedral in the West. For me it was a sad sight. It must also be a shock for the many Western visitors.

St. Sofia Church in Harbin, Heilongjiang, Photo #7

One can only imagine the former splendor of the interior of this magnificant structure. All has been lost through weather and neglect.

St. Sofia Church in Harbin, Heilongjiang, Photo #8

A few paintings, reminding of the original splendor and purpose of the cathedral, hang scattered around the interior of St. Sofia. I was not able to spend much time inside St. Sofia, having been overwhelmed by sadness at this tragic neglect.

St. Sofia at Night! Photo #1

Two Christmas trees grace the entrance to St. Sofia, as the Byzantine-style building is gracefully illuminated during the night.

St. Sofia at Night! Photo #2

Tourists from around the world enjoy the night scene on the square surrounding St. Sofia.

St. Sofia at Night! Photo #3

St. Sofia must have been an even more imposing structure, when it occupied the square in the years of the greatest Russian influence on Harbin. Now St. Sofia dwarfs, surrounded by modern structures in the "new" China.

A last look at St. Sofia as we proceed to Harbin

Though the day is bitter cold, I never saw a cloud in the sky. I wish all of the other visitors to Harbin have the same luck.

8th January 2009

Sue Treadie
Susan Storr

Hi from Oz!
Hi Hans I am so pleased that you decided to travel to Haerbin for the Snow and Ice Festival as I did in 2008! I still can't believe you went without a hat! Aaaargh! Had a wonderful call from Stef the other day. Seems like she is in limbo a bit. Are you travelling home to the States this winter? Job-hunting is in full swing here- I'll let you know how I go. Miss you! Suexx Sue

8th January 2009

Ella
non-member comment

I think it's beautiful!! Thanks for sharing~

8th January 2009

Sandra Cordoba
non-member comment

Oh wow! I did not know that existed in China lol

9th January 2009

Sam Xu
non-member comment

Hello Hans
You travelled a lot , hans, you are good!!! I think you can not remember me . you old freind.

9th January 2009

June
non-member comment

The sculptures are really overwhelming and sensational! It's been a local tradition over, God knows, how many years. Thank you, Hans, for having brought us so many detailed photos to look at. I could never have imagined the size, the scale and the beauty of the famous ice show, unless witnessed these colossal products, even only through their photos. Harbin is a place much colder than Berlin averagely in winter, despite the lower latitude, though both cities have a continental climate. The amount of labour and cost of creating such fantastic artistries must be huge, but, it worth the effort.

10th January 2009

anonymous
non-member comment

hi
are you cold there? take care of yourself.

10th January 2009

anonymous
non-member comment

take care ! miss you , hugh

13th January 2009

Otto Zequeira
non-member comment

Beautiful photos
Beautiful city.

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#110 Teaching at Taizhou Teachers College, China ( HARBIN, Part 1: Ice & Snow Extravaganza, and St. Sofia Cathedral )

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