From Xiamen, I took a 26-hour train ride to Guanzhou, the capital city of the Guandong Province and one of the five centers of the Pearl Delta (others being Hong Kong, Macau, Shenzhen, and Zhuhai). This is the ancestral province of the people from Hong Kong and the home of Cantonese. While I do not consider myself Cantonese (far from it), my great-grandmother is from this province. I shared a sleeper compartment with a family with two girls. How they managed to have two kids in the one-child policy is beyond my understanding. I thought only rich people could afford to pay the penalty associated with having extra children, and here they were sharing the cheap hard-bed compartment with me. I suppose I had a lot of time to ponder this question, given the girls were
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