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Published: February 7th 2007
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Sophia
From Russia with Love The Ice Festival is probably the main reason why many tourists visit Harbin in winter - it may be the only reason to visit Harbin all year round. A 2.5 hour flight from Shanghai will get you there. Upon arrival, some guys from Beijing were hovering around in the -10 cold, deliberating about taxis. 'These guys here are major rip offs' they warned. My companion and I hopped on the bus for 20 yuan into town and to the main railway station. Some other friends caught a taxi and it cost 100 yuan which is the going rate.
It's difficult travelling sometimes when you aren't sure of what's what. I know of a few people first-hand who have been conned in China (including myself - more on that later). Of course it happens everywhere, all I'm saying here is that it happens in China too. A popular scam in Shanghai is to be approached by very respectable looking people who just want to start up a chat in English. This then leads to a suggestion of going for a drink. Once at the said location (one that does not necessarily get the alarm bells ringing) drinks and snacks are promptly
Ice Ice Baby
As the title.... ordered. This happened to a colleague of mine and he was presented with a bill of 1,500 yuan or 100 quid. Totally absurd of course. He was threatened with violence and prevented from leaving until he paid an undisclosed amount. I digress, but the point is that these experiences can often make one suspicious and on guard all the time. Hence the comments by the guys above - yet my friends were not ripped off.
After being dropped at the train station in the centre of town - a freezing wind greeted us and we needed to get a taxi to the hotel sharpish. Then it was straight to bed in a comfortable and spacious room (the Power Hotel if anyone's interested).
The next morning after a very Chinese breakfast, boiled eggs in soy sauce..mmm, we made our way to Sophia Church. Being so close to Russia has left traces of the Slavic influence in Harbin and the church is a great example. Now a photographic exhibition and seller of ashtrays! Of course we were here for the Ice Festival....but where was it? Lonely Planet site 'Zhaolin Park' as being the location for ice sculptures. Turning right at
Ice Ice Baby
As the title.... the Flood Monument and right again, takes you straight to the park. Containing sculptures of characters from 'Ice Age', an ice maze, random figures, a nod to the year of the pig and some fun 'assault course' type things, the park was well worth a visit. A bit smaller than we imagined....was that really it?
We headed back along the promenade and spotted what seemed to be a huge wall of snow over the other side of the frozen river. People were cycling across and being transported via horse and carriage etc. There was also a cable car - as Rachel is a cable car fanatic the choice was obvious. It was quite impressive going over the ice river and being able to get a better view of Harbin...and what we thought could be the Ice Festival. It turned out to be a snow park - with a Canadian theme. 100 yuan entrance fee. In we went and it was quite spectacular - see the pics.
We were bloody freezing by now and on the way back to the cable car we were enticed into a 'cafe' just before the exit. What ensued was my first experience of
Ice Ice Baby
As the title.... a scam in China. Please, if you see the place - avoid at all costs (picture attached). The front entrance displayed an array of drinks/snacks etc. We went in and were seated in a back room - no other patrons around. We were asked if we wanted tea - sure we said. In between sipping, the young girl and older guy tried to engage us in cheerful banter - all seemed well. We had to go. I said can we pay please. The bill - 88 yuan. Now bear in mind that in China, even in Shanghai where I live, you can get a meal for two including drinks at a good restaurant for this price. We both looked at each other as if to say 'here we go'. Unfortunately, or not, Rachel had just been to Beijing and been harassed to high heaven by touts looking to make a quick buck from unsuspecting tourists (even to the point of being followed along the Great Wall for an hour by a man selling Coke(acola). Anyway, Rachel was livid. Of course the two swizzlers had their well rehearsed pantomime reactions as if it was we that were conning them. Rachel put
Ice Ice Baby
As the title.... 20 down and we got up to leave. At this point they blocked our exit and started shouting, we carried on past and the guy ran to the door and locked it with the girl blocking the other door. As a bloke of course several thoughts run through your head. I could get physical - kick the door open - make threats and other macho stuff etc. We had a face off - I swear he quivered under my Northern stare! It was, however, quite intimidating to be locked in and be threatened. The guy kept storming off to a room and coming back - no doubt a ploy that worked in the past. In the end we gave 50 and left with the bitter taste of tea in our mouths. The pic you can see is the cafe and the girl who served us. Caveat Emptor!
We had lost time by now and the last cable car had cabled. Worse, as we tried to figure out where we were all the streetlights went off and we were at a loss as how to get back over the other side. We managed to get a taxi and asked for
Rip-off tea shop!
Revenge is a pudding best served cold. 'Sophia' as it was the only landmark we knew. So, safe inside the warm taxi we headed back. This is when we spotted....the real Ice Festival! The Lonely Planet guide really needs updating. All the fuss in the tea shop was actually worth it to end up there. Castles and palaces in ice, lit up in bright neon is actually quite something to see and of course, the only reason we went to Harbin in the first place. Enjoy the pics - but forget about the tea.
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Judith
non-member comment
Ice is Nice!
What a wonderful display Joe! Thanks for your entertaining write-up..Your blogs are interesting and informative.Keep up the good work!