First impressions


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March 20th 2008
Published: March 20th 2008
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I figure my flight from Paris is a taste of what it's going to be like: everyone assuming that Chinese is my first language, that I am like the many Chinese on my flight. I can no longer hold the odd illusion that I appear "American." It's a confusing emotional bond to have, like a pet cat thinking it's a dog.

There are no signs that I am in a communist government, and perhaps this is where my impressions are wrong; communist isn't necessarily anti-capitalist. Signs of new development are everywhere. We are greeted at Shanghai Pudong airport with spotless shiny corridors towards the maglev train, that drops you off in minutes in central Shanghai. It feels like you are on a smooth low flying plane, as you glide past highway autos, oblivious to your speed of 400 km/hr.

As mom and I walk down the street to the nearest vegetable market, I come to understand why retiring here is so appealing for them. A haircut is only 30 kuai, or roughly 3 dollars/pounds. Later they would decide not to go for that foot massage, only 60 kuai. And food is obscenely inexpensive. Dad and my most fancy meal yet at what dad called the "imperial restaurant" in Beijing was only 20 kuai each, and the fantastic breakfast crepe from the kitchen of our hotel is only 2 kuai.

The world is better for the globalization of pasta, bread, dumplings, and crepes. I need not wax rhapsodic about the different varieties of the first three, but this new crepe variety is an all together a new experience, and I'm sure you'll agree it's a winner. The usual flour crepe batter is spread on a crepe skillet, then a lightly beaten egg is spread thinly atop with a sprinkle of sesame, scallions, and cilantro. Flipped over, it's spread with 4 different sauces, then a deep-fried eggroll wrapper adds grease and a crisp airiness to the whole ensemble. It's not for every morning, but it's up there with beans on hash browns for me.

Chinese service providers don't accept tip, or most don't, but we've now given it in three occasions, and I'm left confused. Dad and I decided to go to the to electronics market, and one of the hotel attendants rushed to our aide by walking the several long blocks with us to make sure we were on our right way. He later flagged down a cab for us, and I had the harebrained idea to give him a 10 kuai tip. But now I wonder, is that pushing what had been good will to an elderly man (Dad obviously) uncomfortably into the realm of business with a dash of dominance?

I think Dad is having a great time in China. I don't know when he crossed over into the territory of obstinate old man, but he plays that card to no end here, and everyone treats him with deference and forbearance, if not with a few glances at me for sympathy. It also allows me to sit back and play good cop to dad's difficult cop while reaping the benefits.

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