China 2013 Day 5

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Our last day in Beijing. In the morning, we check out and move our bags to the belly of the bus. Our first stop is the Temple of Heaven Park, a 267 hectare oasis of peace in the heart of the city. We first stroll through the extensive grounds surrounding the central temple complex. This is a favorite park for Beijing residents to visit, especially in the morning. We see various groups performing tai chi, yoga, and several types of dancing and games. Some of our number who are familiar with tai chi join in with one of the groups, but the female leader is not pleased with their form and corrects them repeatedly, clucking her disapproval. All taken in good spirits, however.

When we reach the centre of the grounds, we enter the Temple of Heaven, more properly known as the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests. It is located on a raised platform surrounded by low walls. Built at the same time as the Forbidden City (1420), it has been fairly recently restored to its original glory. This building shares an interesting architecture with all the others in the complex: a square base representing Earth, and a round upper storey representing Heaven. They are also supported by solid tree trunks and constructed entirely without nails, which seems incredible for a building of this size. Here the emperor would offer prayers for a good harvest and make offerings to the gods: burning valuable items such as jade sculptures and sacrificing animals.

We are given some time to explore on our own. There is an interesting museum that focuses on the reconstruction effort. A wide concourse leads to another area further south.

The group makes its way out of the park, pestered almost constantly by peddlers. Violet bargains for a set of hackysack-like toys that many people in the park are playing. We tarry at an area that has exercise equipment that was apparently donated by the government especially for seniors, and indeed many seniors are making good use of the facilities. Further on, we come across a Muslim group dancing and they are quick to invite us to join in, which several of us do, to the general amusement of all.

Back on to the bus and on to the Summer Palace. This was a place for the emperors and their entourage to escape the summer heat of the city. It is a sprawling complex of buildings subscribing to a common theme spread out over a meticulously landscaped park.

This is clearly a very popular place because it is packed. We follow a circuitous route in and around various building. Once again I am pleased to be 6’4”, which allows me to see above the sea of humanity.

In the centre of the Summer Palace ground is a large man-made lake, on the far side of which is a man-made mountain constructed from the material excavated to build the lake. On a promontory into the lake–OK, this is going to sound a bit weird–is a giant rubber ducky. We've actually been seeing stuffed rubber duckies of various sizes for sale since we arrived in Beijing and finally we get to know why. It turns out that this 900 kg, 20 m high rubber duck is a piece of art designed by Dutch artist Florentijn Hofman and is on an international tour. It is apparently a huge hit in China, but clearly not something one normally expects to see at a historic site.

We follow the lakeshore where we encounter the Long Corridor, the world's longest covered walkway–enshrined in Guinness, we are told–and stroll (or rather push our way) along it. Decorated for its entire length by individual paintings along the ceiling on both sides, it stretches off into the distance. We pause along the parapet marking the lakeshore, when Violet is suddenly grabbed by a strange woman.

A slight digression here. Throughout our time in Beijing, we have had the experience of people unabashedly staring at us. Wanda told us that these people are visitors to Beijing from other parts of China and that they likely have never seen a Caucasian in the flesh before. My height is also a reason for gawking.

Back to the strange woman. What she wants of Violet is a photo together–she and everyone in her party. They look to be Mongolian or at least from northern China and they are laughing their heads off at the pleasure of being photographed with a Caucasian. Then they turn their attention to me and laugh uproariously as they photograph each other, each pointing at how high my head is. We tell them we're Canadian, but I'm not sure they understood. They probably still think we were Americans.

The bus brings us back to Beijing proper, this time to the high-tech district. Shiny new office towers abound, some with quite imaginative architecture. You could be in any major North American city. Lunch is at a restaurant in one of these office buildings. Again it's rice with stuff, but again it is excellent. It's kind of a shame that we are having these great Chinese meals but growing a little tired of them and dreaming of steak and potatoes. In an adjoining room, a wedding reception is under way. We sneak peeks at the proceedings. This has clearly been a spare-no-expense affair and the dresses and decorations are beautiful, as is the bride. The groom looks kind of goofy, in my humble opinion, and more than a little drunk.

Our next stop is a pearl jewelry manufacturing store. Following the same pattern as previous store visits, we have an expertly delivered introduction about the different types and qualities of pearls before being ushered into the store to spend our money. The most impressive offering is the golden pearls, unique to China (or so we're told). I find the attentions of the clerk who has attached herself to Vi and me a little over the top, especially when she catches me alone to suggest that if I truly loved my wife, I would buy her that necklace she was looking at. So unsurprisingly we do not buy anything.

On the way back to the hotel, we drive by the site of the 2010 Olympics to see the Bird's Nest and the Water Cube. Unfortunately it's no more than a photo stop.

Another Chinese dinner, but Wanda has obviously heard some of the chatter, as she has ordered French fries as one of the dishes. They are salty and quite delicious.

It's 7:30 pm by the time we get to the Beijing domestic airport. Security is strict and most of us have to open our bags and explain about our multi-vitamins. Our flight on a very new Airbus leaves at 9. About an hour later, we land in Xian, where we are greeted by our local guide J.W. (his choice). Xian airport is very new and modern, opened just 5 years ago. We clamber onto the bus and are delivered to our hotel, a Shangri-la. We are in bed by midnight, dog tired after a very long day.

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Comments

[Gail MacDonald]

Sawmill Creekies Plus One's Trip To China
Hi all. David, I'm so thoroughly enjoying your blog. You write so fetchingly it's not difficult to imagine myself right there with all of you. Looking forward to more...... Cheers, Gail