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Published: March 2nd 2013
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CHINA: FACES OF ANHUI. I lost a tooth in Shanghai...bit on a peppercorn in a duck-laced caesar salad...affecting my smile for the rest of the trip...smiling for photos with my mouth shut!
Waited for a train...heavy packs...zillions of Chinese also waiting.
Then one seat became vacant...walked towards it to try to secure the seat for Denise...the guy next to it smiling broadly to me...beckoning me forward.
He had no teeth...no...he maybe had two...made me feel quite at home smiling to each other...both with our toothless grins!
If there were no other people around I may have asked to take his photo...face full of character...a crowded railway station...not appropriate!
But on Yellow Mountain, in a lonely locale in Anhui or an ancient village..."May I take your photo please?"
The incomparable Teng Ge singing "Heaven"...the song I sing when I travel China Yellow Mountain (Huangshan) I was in Heaven up there...beautiful landscapes to photograph...occasional other traveller...all keen to snap away...all keen to also pose.
When you've got good looking kids...easy...get them to pose with my kids...zoom lens handy.
Met Father Gabriel up there on Christmas Day...with his entourage of teachers
and students...recognized my camera...he also had one...taking turns to grace my lens.
Cheng Kan Raining one day...too wet to go up the mountain...Wayne Tong the owner & Niu Niu in Reception in Pine Ridge Lodge, Tongkau making suggestions...3 ancient villages to choose from...or the Emerald Forest where 'Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon' filmed...opted for the non- tourist village...Cheng Kan.
A Norwegian couple joined us...Anders & Jenny...Good company for Simon & Anna-Louise...van now full...lets go.
Drove through the mountains...through road tunnels...reminded me of Gansu Provence but more trees...occasional white washed village...feeling remote...chatter of adventures...the Norwegians from an even colder place.
Xiao Jiang stopped the van at a sooty stained ancient building with a large rock with "AAAA" and "Cheng Kan" thereon.
Led us inside to get tickets and indicated he'd meet us at No. 7 on the map a 3.30pm...OK...let's explore.
Immediately I fell behind...mesmerised...several peasant women with poles over their shoulders...baskets on each end...in single file coming towards me over a narrow flat stone bridge...over a small lotus lake...heart beating...camera in my hand getting excited.
They were carrying containers of hot coals...no idea why...intrigued already.
On the other side of
the small lake there was a village...and on its banks people fishing...and another bridge...a moon bridge leading across.
Denise then next to me...then wandering away with a wrinkled woman in a black cap...towards the moon bridge...me still loitering...no idea where she went...no idea where Si, Anna-Lou, Anders & Jenny went either.
Walked around the lake to the right planning to access the village from the other side...saying "Hi" to those fishing...then along the other side. Hit a wooden wall overlapping the lake...the moon bridge just the other side of it...you are kidding I've got to walk all the way back, cross the moon bridge to access the village...you are kidding.
Burrowed in ancient rooms...passages just there...blocked each turn...then found a double door with a massive iron bolt...I'm through...time to explore.
Walked down narrow cobbled lanes...then an old guy smiled at me...toothless grin...smiled back...my toothless grin...suddenly I had found a companion and friend!
He led me down alleys...introduced me to his friends as we came across them...washing fish...dicing food...chopping wood...him chattering to me like we were old friends...walking along...showing me buildings...calligraphy on walls...me not understanding a word...he happy to pose for me...he just happy to walk
with me.
I expected to pay him as a guide...but when he arrived at a cow tethered to a fallen tree root...he indicated to me to go right...shook my hand...and scampered off to the left...refusing payment...smiling at each other...with our toothless grins.
******
I'd missed lunch...wandering is no time to eat...but 3pm...better head back...better to avoid getting into trouble...better...but not obligatory...think its this way.
Like a maze...had to ask directions...a mountain my point of reference...that way..."
xiexie" (thank you)..."
xin dan kuai le" (merry Christmas)...just me, narrow alleys & my thoughts.
Got to the moon bridge...passed the water wheel...women with baskets...then back to where we were dropped off...silent as...noone within coo-ee.
Time passed...forgot completely was supposed to be at No. 7 on the map...wouldn't have known where that was anyway.
Wandered back to where several women with baskets...faces beaming...sign language...anyone like me?...me...breasts?...wife?...anyone?...no lights flickering...better go back and just wait.
They must have chattered and as they passed with their baskets...one with eyes sparkling...indicating I follow her.
Walked several hundred metres...into a building...seems empty...then right on cue...the others just there...the peasant lady beaming...Den hurrying me in for sensational dumpling soup...Si, Anna-Lou, Anders & Jenny
clowning around outside.
Ah...Anhui...sensational...my sixteenth Provence in China...gotta love it.
Relax & Enjoy,
Dancing Dave
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Ohh...Mr Xao Ba Co......
Now, some of us know how you really lost that tooth of yours.... or have you forgotten the incident with Polly??? ;)