Blogs from Koh Kong , West, Cambodia, Asia - page 2

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Asia » Cambodia » West » Koh Kong January 2nd 2015

A day in Chi Phat village--I want to say "typical" day--but nothing is ever typical. It usually starts with a bicycle ride, but then anything can happen... At 6 am I'm out on my bicycle for a morning ride. I pass Veasna, a former cycling guide and tell him to join me. He says no, he just finished jogging (I doubt that) and besides, he doesn't want to wear out the chain on his bicycle. I head down the road. Dogs everywhere, sitting on the dirt road, sitting in the ashes of fires, sitting on each other, sitting on house steps, assessing the activities around them. Chickens always waiting until the last moment to dash out in front of me. Crowing roosters, bloated water buffaloes chewing grass. Cows clanging their bells as they plod to the ... read more
A scene from my bike ride
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Asia » Cambodia » West » Koh Kong December 27th 2014

"Was it love at first sight?" Lee Heng's eyes smile. "What is that? What do you mean?" He knows I am teasing him, but he still wants to know what I mean. So I explain, to the best of my ability, about this strange notion of love at first sight. And even though he knows I am teasing, he explains the circumstances of meeting his future wife. "I spoke to her on the phone over a year before I met her." "Well how did that happen?" I ask. I'm certain my forest guide did not engage in Internet dating, which might explain the long telephone contact before he finally met her. "My aunt, I met her through my aunt who told her about me. And I met her at my aunt's house in Phnom Penh." I'm ... read more
A boat ride on the Piphot River to the jungle
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Asia » Cambodia » West » Koh Kong December 21st 2014

Pon insists that I am more beautiful than she is. She says my teeth are beautiful, and my skin is pretty. It is white, you see, and to me, my face looks pale and ghostly compared to her lovely face, the color of rich creamed coffee. I met her when I stopped at a small restaurant on my return from swimming in the rapids of the river that runs by Chi Phat. I fancied a coconut water, and thought surely this tiny and cheerful looking place with red flowers on its borders would have one. Alas, they did not, but the smiling young woman behind the glass case filled with dried sting rays ... read more
Pon and Family
Pon cools off mama pig
Pon

Asia » Cambodia » West » Koh Kong December 17th 2014

Hello tout le monde ! Non, on n'a pas oublié le blog ! Mais c'est vrai qu'on a de plus en plus la flemme de rédiger et on commence à avoir du mal à se souvenir de tout... On est au Cambodge depuis 2 semaines et il ne reste plus beaucoup d'étapes avant de boucler la boucle et de retrouver Ho Chi Minh (et Bruxelles)! Le Cambodge, c'est le retour de la chaleur lourde comme en Inde (en moins exagéré quand même), des grandes villes, du harcèlement par les chauffeurs de tuk-tuks et autres vendeurs ("Want fruits? Want room? Want weed? Want girl?"), le retour des centres de massages douteux,des couples tout aussi douteux "papy occidental + petite asiat en mini-jupe" des supermarchés, des fast foods, des ladyboys, et j'en passe. Il y a 2 monnaies ... read more
Ta Prohm

Asia » Cambodia » West » Koh Kong December 11th 2014

The leaves slap my face as I ride behind Savin on his motorbike. Good thing I'm wearing the bicycle helmet I brought from home. It's better than nothing. That branch that just wapped me on my head surely would have found blood had I not been wearing it. I've got a vice-like grip on the bar in the back. The trail is so bumpy in places I think I'm going to fly off, so I clamp my fingers even tighter. Oh my gawd, they're welded to the bar. Are those blisters developing at the base of my fingers? Sure, I wanted a little adventure, but this might be too much. Fellow volunteer Esben suggested we take a moto out to the "jar site", a burial site dating somewhere from the 15th to 17th centuries. It remains ... read more
Wooden Crypt
My trusted moto driver
Leech proofing

Asia » Cambodia » West » Koh Kong December 7th 2014

It is an important day here for the residents of the small villages comprising the bigger area around Chi Phat. Today the people vote for seven people to fill the positions that work for the Community Based Ecotourism Committee. This is the first election in five years. Voters have been informed of the election by their respective village chiefs, written posters, and loudspeaker traveling the roads by vehicle for the last two days. The positions include director, accountant, 2 positions for receptionist, mechanic and supply clerk, head cook, and booking agent. Voters are looking for the best candidates to lead their community forward as it grows as a popular ecotourism destination for thousands of visitors seeking an authentic jungle experience. The nine member election committee, with the assistance of employees from the Wildlife Alliance, have worked ... read more
The polling booth
Votes are tallied
Registrar and village chief inspect the registration list

Asia » Cambodia » West » Koh Kong December 5th 2014

My friend Darrow has a boat that he uses daily to cross the Piphot River to reach the land where he manages a small flower growing business. He bales the water from it now as we get ready to go lobster fishing with a local fisherman who lives where Darrow docks the boat. I watch the fisherman's eighteen year old son sharpen the metal tines of the "s'naw", which looks like a small pitchfork. It is attached to the other end of the long narrow wooden oar. He feels each tine with his finger. They must be razor sharp so as to easily pierce the crustaceans that he is about to hunt. Darrow's excitement mounts as we prepare for launching on to the placid river. He himself has never hunted for lobsters, but he wants to ... read more
Sokhaa's brother sharpens the s'naw
A helping toe for sharpening the s'naw
The spear is attached to the end of the long oar

Asia » Cambodia » West » Koh Kong November 30th 2014

I've made it to the inner sanctum, where gustatory delights are birthed in a small smokey womb--the kitchen. My Cambodian son Savin and his wife Srey Mom resisted my previous requests to help prepare food. But I finally triumphed, and now I sit on the slatted wood floor, peeling the crusts away from bongaong, river lobster. The small village of Chi Phat hugs the Piphot River. Fisherman harvest river lobsters from its placid waters at night when the water is lowest, using the light of a head lamp and a small pitch fork-like spear called a s'naw. I've cleaned shrimp at home, but these critters are several times larger and have beady big eyes and long stiff legs. Srey Mom shows me how to pull the shell away from the head, remove a pea sized organ ... read more
Srey Mom creates divine lobster
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Srey Mom tastes for seasoning

Asia » Cambodia » West » Koh Kong November 29th 2014

The music booms from giant stacked speakers. The male singer wails, drastically off key, his four fru-fru girly girls bob up and down while their flouncy short dresses flutter. They wave their arms, flip their hair, pout their lips, and sometimes join the cacophony. Manufactured "smoke" wafts across the stage, adding an amusing drama to the scene. Yes I'm still in Chi Phat, where it's wedding season! The preparation for the celebration started several days ago. The canned music has blared whenever the village electricity is on, starting around 6 am. It travels for miles. The party tent was erected over a couple days, where else, but in the middle of the main street of Chi Phat. It extends at least a football field in length and spreads across nearly the entire dirt road. Thin purple ... read more
BrIde and groom
Decked out wedding participants
Procession

Asia » Cambodia » West » Koh Kong November 25th 2014

I have been eating meals at the headquarters office, where cooks fry and steam breakfast, lunch, and dinner for the guests who come to Chi Phat to experience this special place. All the ingredients they must buy fresh daily from the tiny market. Food items are seasonal and vary from day to day. Some days fish is available, some days it is not. The project here employs several teams of many cooks. The additional income gives them just enough so that their family members do not have to go to the forest to cut trees or hunt animals, thus supporting the goals of the conservation and reforestation project based here. The committee of community members tries hard to distribute the income gaining opportunities among as many people as possible. We get unusual breakfast items. The fried ... read more
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Making coconut milk




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