Phnom Penh – a completely different side to the city, a trip to the Killing Fields of Choung Ek, and an inevitable meeting with police corruption...

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We stopped for two nights in Phnom Penh, and decided to stay in the Psar Thmey area since we had found out that Sorya buses both arrived from Sihanoukville and left to Laos from the same place. And Sorya buses, we had found out, were, if not new, nearly always outfited with working air-conditioning! So we had one evening and a full day in Phnom Penh at our leisure before leaving the country.

This time however, we were far from the idyllic civilisation of the riverside. Our hotel, for one, rented out rooms by the hour. And the streets around, though lined with budget guesthouses and tons of restaurants and cafes, seem to cater to a vast majority of single (often older) male travellers, who were obviously there to also enjoy the rest of the establishments, where Cambodian girls in shockingly revealing attire for Southeast Asia (but what would pass for night-out outfits in, say, England) hung out in groups in front. It was the grimy, seedy, sad Phnom Penh we had heard about, reminescent of the back streets of Bangkok, but on a much smaller scale, of course. We went to Laughing Fat Man for dinner (superyummy and cheap!), where we saw other couples also quite mesmerized by the scenario.

The next day we rented a motorbike, so we could try and run some errands as well as see the sights. We managed to get to the post office and send things (having researched the night before, we knew it was crucial that we send things registered mail and WATCH them stamp the package, as well as tip the ladies at the counter just for good measure), and were well on our way to see the Killing Fields of Choung Ek (or the Choung Ek Genocide Center as they call it) when we got pulled over by the police who did exactly what we had heard they would do. They said we needed a Cambodian license, which is not true, and then showed us a book in Cambodian (which both they and we knew could have been a poem for all we knew) and an entry next to which there was a hand-written «50 USD». He then said if we paid there and then it was only 20. We stood there and smiled and nodded and got it down to 15, and while we tried to haggle further he explained that I was right and it should be 5 USD, but that was per policeman, and there were three of them there. Having spent almost 30 minutes nodding and smiling, we decided to pay the 15 USD and get on our way. In retrospect we should not have been driving on the main road, but we did not want to spend the whole day trying to figure out the backroads. Also we shouldn't have stopped but there was a red light ahead so we were blocked in. The three of them were just waiting there for anyone Western to pass by on a bike. Really, we didn't stand a chance. However, the Cambodian people were immediately redeemed when a tuk-tuk driver along the way helped us with directions and was extremely friendly.

The center at Choung Ek is extremely well done. The audio tour (included in the ticket) is excellent, and is a mix of both explanation and testimonials from people who survived the Khmer Rouge, on both sides. The site is chilling. All around are giant holes in the ground, craters where mass graves have been found. Everywhere the ground still churns out bits of clothing and human remains, a reminder of the horrors of the Khmer Rouge, and a witness, as the locals see it, of the unrest of the souls who were murdered there. We don't need to explain much that you cannot find out on your own, but the mere fact that people, including many babies and women, were not shot but bludgeoned to death in order to not waste bullets is enough to give a slight idea of the atrocities committed there. It was of course no pleasant experience to visit the site, but we were very glad we did it. And to be honest, in a country where people have watched neighbours turn on each other, where families have been ripped apart and decimated, and where such horrific methods of extermination were used, it is incredible to be greeted with such open arms, and being scammed once in a while seems almost fair.

On our way back we drove the back way by the Silver Pagoda and the Royal Palace, and passed by the oh-so-charming-and-posh riverside area.

That night I convinced Øyvind to go local and we ate at one of the Khmer barbecue places on St. 34, Khmer Excellent I think it was called, and got heaps of delicious barbequeued beef and vegetables in wonderful herb marinades for an ever-so-reasonable price. It was Friday again, and as the place was most frequented by locals, there was no ordering a single beer, but a jug, and, should one of us dare drink from our glass, a lovely beer-lady came by to refill it. Indeed, we were quite jolly by the time we left.



- amount of bribes paid to traffic police (after driving for nearly 2 months!): 1 (fair enough, I say)

- best fish amok eaten in Cambodia: The Sugar Palm in Siem Reap, it was like a souflé! Mmmm...

- tips to send mail out of Phnom Penh successfully: register it (fill out the paperwork and watch them stamp it), watch them weigh it, watch them stamp the package, tip the ladies at the counter, smile, and praying a little might help, too... (also not sending anything of value on the black market)

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Photos

Mass grave
Some of the mass graves are fenced and has a roof over them. Here, many people leave wrist bands and other small things in respect to the victims and their families

On the terrace
A local girl at her terrace in Phnom Penh

Begging
we met this little rascal at a petrol station. She was begging for money, but we didn't want to give any money, but instead Sadie bought something to eat and drink. As soon as we gave it to hear - she thanked us several times, danced a few steps before she ran over to the other side of the street - to sell what we just gave her

Mass graves
This small lake is all filled with smaller and bigger mass graves. It has been decided to leave the remains as they are, both in respect for them, and as a remainder for the future

Whats left behind
Every year, specially after the wet season, human remains and clothes appear around the mass graves. It is collected and kept in mounters like this around the site

Mass grave with explanation
Some of the mass graves have signs explaining who was buried there. Here it was woman and children who was buried

vast numbers
around the site, there are several mass graves giving a small impression of how many people was killed here

The commemorative stupa
Here, thee remains from the first graves that was uncovered are collected and categorized in age and gender. Similar stupas are erected at many of the other killing fields around Cambodia

Fruity
Some woman at the market preparing Jackfruit

watch out
You don't want to do anything stupid around the city of Phnom Penh, much of the police are better equipped than in many other towns we have visited

Chuck's in town
But we didn't know Mr- Norris was so well for dim sum, but oh well

Around the hotel
A lot of shady business was in lay around our hotel. We didn't take any chances on documenting it all, so you just have to trust us