Days running into each other


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February 7th 2010
Published: February 7th 2010
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February 6

The last couple of days have started to run one into the other for us, pun fully intended. After our descent from PV Temple in sitting in the back of a pickup truck, tossing cigarettes at the guards along the way. After changing and a quick lunch, Jeff's inner packing logostician self emerged and he set about to repack the Montero so that we would have more space for the ride home as we had decided not to stay the night..The ride back to Siem Reap was mostly smooth, well as smooth as driving along the permanently and endless construction of their future roadway system can be on a given day. We were to stay at a guesthouse in the area of Preah Vihear but with the journey over, the military vibe and the state of the guesthouse (our tent seemed a preferable option), we pressed on toward Anlong Veng, a city half way between Siem Reap and Preah Vihear.

Mr Paul took us along a back way along the Thai/Cambodian border, used now only for the military and pretty much nothing else. Not unlike the areas we had been through on the run, we were however very pleased to have the road to ourselves.....something that would not last long enough.

Soon we were back on the main road, jockeying for position as if we were at the NASCAR no rules trials. All in though it was an uneventful ride until, in the middle of a discussion about progress, the impact of new roads, and accidents, we witness what should have been a gene pool cleansing of Darwinian proportions! Imagine for a moment a two lane road, reduced to only slightly more than one, by the placement of successive four foot high dirt mounds over roughly a kilometer and a half. The driving dance required to continue to facilitate the passing of vehicles is a delicate one at best and virtually impossible at its worst. Enter super Y chromosome mental giant with a short something or other complex, in a Toyota Rav4, coming the opposite direction at a very high rate of speed. With oncoming traffic blocking his way, uber-mega ego NASCAR wannabe goes for the first pile of dirt that is in his path. The SUV becomes airborne momentarily only to do a triple bounce along the top of the dirt piles, truck parts of all sizes now no longer attached. Finally coming to rest on all four wheels, uber-buddy is not yet satisfied with his luck or progress, manages to back his truck up and hammer is way along the dirt pile lined roadside, only just maintaining control. Stunned at what we had witnessed and disappointed that Darwin had taken the day off, we were at least grateful that the pending car wreck was no longer in our gravity field.

We arrived in Anlong Veng, stopped shortly and managed to convince Mr Paul to continue on to Siem Reap in the approaching evening. Against their usual rules and better guidance, he agreed and soon enough we were in checking into our hotel, a real hotel with air conditioning and a POOL! A quick rinse of some very, very nasty clothes (the water in the tub as the second rinse), refresshing warm showers and the dirt removed from our bodies, we set out for the 'Angkor What ?' bar and the margaritas we had promised ourselves. We managed to catch up with Bruce and enjoy a few stories, penned our journey on the ceiling, imbibed a couple of buckets of GnT and we headed back to the hotel......

Morning arrives and do you think we could enjoy a comfy hotel bed and an additional hour or three of sleep, we are awake at 5am, our bodies not yet convinced we are done running, we set out to attempt some bathtub laundry before we head to the Blue Pumpkin for a baguette and more than one iced coffee!

We pass the day wandering the market, getting an amazing foot massage and cold beer around the unbelievably pool. We spent the evening with Paul and Sheila, meeting their family and talking about the trip. What went well, what could be improved and what we should do next. The conversation got around to water and wells and we committed to them that we would fund the remaining $500 it would take to get our well drilled.

The evening complete we made our way home to get ready for our taxi adventure to Phnom Penh in the morning..

February 4th arrives but we manage to sleep in just a bit longer, woohooo 7am! We are picked up not only on time, not Cambodian time but early! Our driver was kind enough and likely thanks to Mr Slim a very good NASCAR taxi. Barely a blind curve pass and easy on the horn, that is until we made a change on the destination. Instead of heading to Sophea's we needed to go to the airport to see Paul off and Sophea would also be there so it made sense. From the time he became aware of the change, it was like Jeckle and Hyde! Not only did the horn instances increase 100 fold but the Cambo taxi driver came out in the form of three very near collisions, on the shoulder driving (both sides of the road!), incited more than several incidents of road rage and that was within the last 35km of the city! We managed to make it to the airport alive and unscathed. Nerves worse for the wear and more than a bit edgy, we had (and needed) a drink immediately on arrival at the airport!

From there it was back to Sophea's and we had planned on taking her and Lysa our for dinner but Sophea requested that we have dinner in and allow her to cook. We were to have 'fish', which works well for us. What we had though was the most amazing fried crab with fresh green peppercorn, massive jumbo shrimp in a soup with mushrooms and lemongrass. Check out the pic to see for yourself! YUMMY!

The 5th brought shopping and relaxing. Melisandre arrived in the evening and another dinner at home was planned. Back to the Central Market for food shopping and more! Dinner with Sophea, Lysa, Bruce and Melisandre, plus Nanny and her grandson. We made Grouper ceviche and Sophea made stir fried chicken with chilies and lemongrass plus pork fried noodles. Amazing fare and we were ready for a nap! Nat and Sophea stayed home, while Jeff, Bruce and Mel went out for 'a' drink. That turned into Jeff announcing at 1:30am that it was time to sleep and off he went!

The 6th became our official introduction into busing Cambodia style. We had taken taxi's to this point but $8 for two bus tickets verse $35 for a taxi to Kampot and well we packed snacks and a sense of humor and got on our bus at the appointed time. Honestly, it was an easy experience and seeing the road from high up verse head on was a better way to travel and we are at least for now, converted bus riders.....

Kampot is a lovely old French colonial town (read ruins) along the river. The best amok we have found to date at Rikitavi. Added features are a wonderful view of the river for the amazing sunset and gin and tonics!

Finally we come to today, February 7th....We took the opportunity to tour Bokor Hill Station and the French colony ruins. The trip starts with a hike through the jungle for about 2 hours followed by a 45 minute, in the back of an open short bed king cab Toyota stuffed with 10 barangs and driver, bouncing to the top. The road is officially closed and under construction (we've not seen a road that is not under construction to this point) but the tours are allowed to operate. The Bokor area was until recently a national park but according to our guide, it was sold a couple of years ago to finance a countrywide election. The amount we heard was $100million. For anyone interested in French colonial history in Cambodia, you had better come soon, before the 100 plus room hotel and casino take over the entire mountain top.....only two of the buildings are contractually required to stay and the diverse ecosphere will certainly suffer as well.

So now we are literally enjoying margaritas and yet another amok! Tomorrow we are off to Koh Ru (Bamboo Island) for 4 nights in a beach side bungalow! Hope all is well in your world, where ever that may be....Jeff and Nat


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9th February 2010

Just floored ...
I shall never ever bitch about riding a 100 again. Just in awe. Huge congratulations and will be continuing to read! Hugs and kisses. --Patti

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