Angkor who? Angkor Wat, that's who - Cambodia, January 2017

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Angkor who? Angkor Wat, that’s who. Cambodia, January, 2017



By 3pm I was touching down at Siem Reap International Airport, my port of entry into Cambodia. A small but extremely efficient place and I was thru customs and immigration in record time. It was quite warm around 92f, but at least the humidity was tolerable, and just a short 15-minute bus ride to my hotel, Angkor Paradise.



Tonight, a traditional Cambodian dinner combined with an Apsara show, performed by boys and girls from a local orphanage, who go to school during the day and earn money by dancing at night. Khmer classical dance is derived from Indian court dance, which traces its origins to the Apsarases of Hindu mythology, heavenly female nymphs, who were born to dance for the gods. At the heart of the classical form is the Apsara, the joyful almost wanton dance which dates back to the 1^st century. The graceful movements of the dancers, adorned with gold headdresses and silken tunics and skirts, are carved on many of the temple walls at Angkor. It is estimated there was 3,000 Apsara dancers in the 12^th century court of King Jayavarman VII. Over the centuries, Khmer dancing lent its influence to the classical ballet of neighboring countries, and some of its postures and movements are similar to other Southeast Asian dance forms. In 1400 AD with the sacking of the Angkor Empire, Apsara dancers were seized and taken to Thailand.



Tonight’s performance, which lasted approximately 90 minutes during which dinner was served, comprised of five separate parts: (1) The Blessing Dance, (2) Coconut Shells Dance, (3) Mekhala Dance, (4) Pailin Peacock Dance and finally (5) Apsara Dance. Such energy from each performer, with dazzling dance moves and smiles which lit up the stage. They are all so young – probably 20 years old at the very most – but their dedication to the dance is obvious. They are accompanied by a 3-man group each playing a different traditional instrument.



The life-support system and gateway for the temples of Angkor (designated as one of the modern Seven Wonders of the World), Siem Reap was always destined for great things. Visitors come here to see the temples, of course, but there is plenty to do in and around the city when you're “templed out” as I have been over the past three weeks. Siem Reap has reinvented itself as the epicenter of chic Cambodia, with everything from backpacker party pads to hip hotels, world-class wining and dining across a range of cuisines, sumptuous spas, great shopping, local tours to suit both foodies and adventurers, and a creative cultural scene that includes Cambodia's leading circus.


Angkor is a place to be savored, not rushed, and this is the base from which to plan your adventures. Still think three days at the temples is enough? Think again, with Siem Reap on the doorstep. Siem Reap has colonial and Chinese-style architecture in the Old French Quarter, and around the Old Market. In the city, there are museums, a Cambodian cultural village, souvenir and handicraft shops, silk farms, rice-paddies in the countryside, fishing villages and a bird sanctuary. The city today, being a popular tourist destination, has a large number of hotels, resorts, restaurants and businesses closely related to tourism. This is much owed to its proximity to the Angkor temples, the most popular attraction in Cambodia.



Cambodia has had a pretty bad run of luck for the last half-millennium or so. Ever since the fall of Angkor in 1431, the once mighty Khmer Empire has been plundered by its neighbors. It was colonized by the French in the 19th century, and during the 1970s suffered heavy carpet bombing by the USA. After a false dawn of independence in 1953, Cambodia promptly plunged back into the horrors of civil war in 1970 to suffer the Khmer Rouge's incredibly brutal reign of terror, and only after UN-sponsored elections in 1993 did the country begin to totter back onto its feet.



Much of the population still subsists on less than the equivalent of US$1 a day, the provision of even basic services remains spotty, and political intrigue remains as complex and opaque as ever; but the security situation has improved immeasurably, and increasing numbers of visitors are rediscovering Cambodia's temples and beaches.







A little history lesson: (I found this fascinating – who knew?)



It is important to remember that Cambodian history did not begin with the Khmer Rouge. Pol Pot's incredibly harsh regime has garnered the most attention, but the Cambodians have enjoyed a long and often triumphant history. Anybody who witnesses the magnificent temples at Angkor can attest to the fact that the Khmer Empire was once wealthy, militarized, and a major force in the region. Its zenith came under Jayavarman VII (1181-1218), where the Empire made significant territorial gains from the Cham. The Khmer Empire stretched to encompass parts of modern day Thailand, Malaysia, Burma, Laos and Vietnam.



The period following the fall of the Khmer Empire has been described as Cambodia's dark ages. Climatic factors precipitated this fall, where the Ankorian civilization harnessed Cambodia's water for agriculture through elaborate systems of canals and dams. The Khmer Empire never recovered from the sacking by its neighbors based in Ayutthaya (in modern day Thailand), and Cambodia spent much of the next 400 years (until French colonization) squeezed and threatened by the rivalries of the expanding Siamese and Vietnamese Empires to the West and East. The French came to dominate Cambodia as a protectorate from the 1860s, part of a wider ambition to control the area then termed Indochina (modern day Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos). The French were always more concerned with their possessions in Vietnam. Education of Cambodians was neglected for all but the established elite. It was from this elite class that many "Red Khmers" would emerge. Japan's hold on Southeast Asia during the Second World War undermined French prestige and, following the Allied victory, Prince Sihanouk soon declared independence. This was a relatively peaceful transition as France was too absorbed with its struggle in Vietnam.



Prince Sihanouk was the main power figure in the country after this. He was noted for making very strange movies in which he starred, wrote and directed. His rule was characterized at this point with a Buddhist revival and an emphasis on education. This, however, was a mixed blessing. He succeeded in helping create an educated elite class who became increasingly disenchanted with the lack of jobs available. As the economic situation in Cambodia deteriorated, many of these young people were attracted to the Indochinese Communist Party, and later the Khmer Rouge.



As the Second Indochina War spread to Cambodia's border (an important part of the "Ho Chi Minh trail"), the USA became increasingly concerned with events in the country. The US Air Force bombed Cambodia from 1964 to 1973. During this campaign, which was initially codenamed Operation Menu, 540,000 tons of bombs were dropped. Estimates of the death toll range from 40,000 to 150,000. Most of the bombing was done in support of Khmer Republic military forces fighting the Khmer Rouge and North Vietnam. In total, the US dropped 2.7 million tons of bombs on Cambodia from 1964 to 1973, more than the combined amount dropped by all the Allies in all theatres during World War II!



In March 1970, while overseas to visit Moscow and Beijing, Sihanouk was overthrown by Lon Nol and other generals who were looked upon favorably by the United States. Sihanouk then put his support behind the Khmer Rouge. This change influenced many to follow suit; he was after all, considered a Boddhisatva. Meanwhile the Khmer Rouge followed the Vietnamese example and began to engender themselves to the rural poor. Between 200,000 and 300,000 people died in the civil war including the United States air campaigns.



Following a five-year struggle, Communist Khmer Rouge forces captured Phnom Penh in 1975 and ordered the evacuation of all cities and towns. Over one million people (and possibly many more) died from execution or enforced hardships. Those from the cities were known as "new" people and suffered the most at first. The rural peasantry were regarded as "base" people and fared better. However, the Khmer Rouge's cruelty was enacted on both groups. It also depended much upon where you were from. For example, people in the East generally got it worse. It is debated whether or not the Khmer Rouge began "crimes against humanity" or a protracted "genocide". There are claims that there were a disproportionate number of ethnic Chams killed, and the ethnically Vietnamese also suffered persecution. Nonetheless, the Khmer also suffered often indiscriminate mass killings. A 1978 Vietnamese invasion drove the Khmer Rouge into the countryside and ended 13 years of fighting (but the fighting would continue for some time in border areas). As a result of the devastating politics of the Khmer Rouge regime, virtually no infrastructure was left. Institutions of higher education, finance, and all forms of commerce were destroyed in 1978, so the country had to be rebuilt from scratch. UN-sponsored elections in 1993 helped restore some semblance of normalcy, as did the rapid diminution of the Khmer Rouge in the mid-1990s. A coalition government, formed under pressure of the losing party following national elections in 1998, brought renewed political stability and the surrender of remaining Khmer Rouge forces. Many leaders of the formal periods kept important positions. They often adopted more liberal views as long they could extract personal profit from the situation.



The following morning after breakfast in the hotel, it’s time to explore what this country is so famous for: temples, temples and more temples – both Hindu and Buddhist – and first up is what is commonly known as “Angelina Jolie’s Temple” as this is her favorite of them all, the Angkor Thom Complex, real name Ta Phohm. Unlike most of the temples of Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm has been largely left to the clutches of the living jungle. With its dynamic interaction between nature and man-made art, this atmospheric temple is a favorite for many - who can't help but feel a little like Indiana Jones or Lara Croft (which was filmed here) as they pick through the rubble.



Construction on this began in 1186 AD and was originally a Buddhist temple, dedicated to the mother of King Jayavarman VII. A rare inscription here provides statistics on the original temple workers. Allowing for some exaggeration to honor the king, it reports around 80,000 workers, including 2,700 officials and 615 dancers, is still astounding. Sadly, Ta Prohm was looted quite heavily in recent years due to its relative isolation, and many of its ancient stone reliquaries have been lost.



Great trees tower above this incredible site, their leaves filtering the sunlight, providing welcome shade and casting a greenish light over the otherworldly location. Delicately carved reliefs on the walls sprout lichen, moss and creeping plants. Some as wide as an oak tree, the vines of Ta Phrom cleave massive stones in two and spill over the top of temple ramparts. The effect is striking, especially at the strangulating root formation on the inside of the easternmost entrance pavilion. Another popular site is the “Tomb Raider Tree” in the central sanctuary, where Angelina Jolie picked a jasmine flower and was sucked beneath the earth.



Ta Prohm is extensively ruined, but exploration is still possible for numerous towers, close courtyards and narrow corridors, discovering hidden gems of stone reliefs beneath encroaching foliage. Many of the corridors are impassable, thanks to the jumbled piles of carved stone blocks that clog their interiors. There are 39 towers here, which are connected by numerous galleries. Visitors are no longer permitted to climb onto the crumbling galleries, due to the potential damage to both temple and visitor.



The exterior wall of the compound is 1/2 mile by 1,969 feet and the entrance gates have the classic Jayavarman face. Most visitors enter from the west gate, and some drivers will agree to pick you up on the other side. A line of open-air eateries is just outside the main entrance, popular places for a snack or lunch.



Over the next 4 hours, I got to visit the Elephants Terrace, Terrace of the Leper King, the mysterious Bayan Temple, complete with beautifully preserved bas reliefs and 172 giant smiling stone faces. This sprawling temple complex, built by Khmer Kings, was once home to more than a million people at the height of the empire. By the time I stopped for lunch at midday, I was soaked to the skin with sweat from the excessive humidity, but what a marvelous morning I had - absolutely spectacular.



Back to the hotel to avoid the heat of the day before returning to the area to visit the highlight of the entire trip: Angkor Wat. In its beauty and state of preservation, it’s unrivaled. Its mightiness and magnificence bespeak pomp and luxury surpassing that of a Pharaoh or a Shah Jahan. An impressiveness greater than that of the Pyramids, an artistic distinctiveness as fine as that of the Taj Mahal. Located about 4 miles north of Siem Reap and south of the Angkor Thom Complex, entry and exit can only be accessed from the west gate.



Angkor Wat was built in the first half of the 12^th century. Estimated construction time of the temple is 30 years, by King Suryayarman II, and dedicated to the Hindu God Vishnu. The largest monument of the Angkor group and the best preserved, it is an architectural marvel. Its perfection in composition, balance, proportions, bas reliefs and sculpture, make it one of the finest monuments in the world. “Wat” if the Khmer name for temple, which was probably added to “Angkor” when it became a Theravada Buddhist monument around the 16^th century. After 1432 AD when the capital moved to Phnom Penh, Angkor Wat was cared for by Buddhist monks.



It is generally accepted that Angkor Wat was a funerary temple for King Suryayarman II and oriented to the west to conform to the symbolism between the setting sun and death. The bas reliefs, designed for viewing from left to right in the order of Hindu funereal ritual, supports this theory.



The plan of Angkor Wat is difficult to grasp when walking through it because of the vastness. Its complexity and beauty both attract and distract your attention. From a distance, Angkor Wat appears to be a colossal mass of stone on one level with a long causeway leading to the center, but close up, it is a series of elevated towers, covered galleries, chambers, porches and courtyards on different levels, linked by stairways. From the ground to the top of the central tower measures 699’, achieved with 3 rectangular or square levels, each one progressively smaller and higher than the one below. The overall profile imitates a lotus bud.



Angkor Wat is a miniature replica of the universe in stone, and represents an earthly model of the cosmic world. The central tower rises from the center of the monument, symbolizing the mythical mountain, Meru, situated at the center of the universe. Its five towers correspond to the peaks of Meru. The outer wall corresponds to the mountains at the edge of the world, and the surrounding moat the oceans beyond.



After 2 hours of clambering around this astounding monument, I made my way back to the main entrance where I sat on the banks of the moat and just drank in the scenery of this place. It was hot, very humid and dark clouds were gathering on the horizon, but it’s hard to tear yourself away from this vision….it’s definitely a “must visit” monument, without a doubt. BUT I have to admit, Ta Phrom is my overall favorite, probably because it was so unexpected, unknown and simply fabulous. I expected Angkor Wat to be exactly what it is – I had no idea Ta Phrom even existed.



Back to the hotel, too hot, tired and sweat-soaked to even think about anything but a cold shower and falling into bed. Another exciting day of sightseeing lined up for today…..bring it on! LOL



After yet another buffet breakfast (combination of fried eggs, chicken satay with peanut sauce and noodles), I was ready to explore further. Over my traveling adventures, I have not yet had the opportunity to ride an ox-cart – today I was about to remedy that. A short 20-drive out into the rural countryside of Siem Reap, brought me to a local tourist attraction where farmers bring their teams of water buffalo (when not immediately needed in the rice paddies), already hitched up to a bamboo and wood ox cart, big enough for three people to ride in.



And off I went, perched on the back of this cart, camera in hand, to record the 25-minute slow-paced ride thru flooded rice paddies and palm trees by the boatload. Passing single homes standing precariously on slits above the water, women cooking and doing laundry on the front decks; half naked kids playing in the mud and dirt; this is life in rural Cambodia – hasn’t changed for centuries. Water buffalo are still the transportation mode of choice and workhorse of the agricultural society, but you also see television antennas perched on thatch roof tops! You have to laugh. I was suffering from buttocks paralysis (numb ass) by the time I returned to the bus – I had a great time but I don’t think my hemorrhoids appreciated it that much, however.



To finish off my day of sightseeing, it was time to take to the water and board a motorized long boat – very similar to the one back in Laos. Located approximately 10 miles from Siem Reap, Tonle Sap Lake (literal translation: “tonle” meaning large river, “sap” meaning fresh, not salty), is southeast Asia’s largest fresh water lake. It is one of the world’s most varied and productive ecosystems, and currently supports approximately 200 floating houses and 1,000 people, and some of these water gypsies were born, lived and died without ever leaving the lake!


During the wet season the water of the Mekong river becomes so powerful, that it reverses the flow of the Tonle Sap River, and pushes the surplus of rain water back into the lake. This transforms the lake into a huge natural water reservoir and the lake's size increases to approximately 45,900’ with a depth of 26’. The Tonle Sap River connects the lake with the Mekong River at Phnom Penh, in the south east. With the continuous change of the water level, the people who live on the lake have to move their houses when the water level goes down. Whole villages including schools, shops, churches and pig farms are getting pulled away to a place where the water is still high enough to float. In 1997, the lake was designated as a protected area under UNESCO's Man and Biosphere program.


The entire trip was almost two hours long, and began with cruising down a canal, lined with local men all fishing with circular nets and bamboo traps. Dressed in either shorts or butt-hugging speedos and tee shirts (or bare chested – be still my hormones), they grinned and waved as the boat passed by.


As the boat entered the lake itself, stilted homes began appearing on each side, floating dreamily on bamboo poles and oil drums. There were chickens and pigs in bamboo cages, floating alongside the homes, totally unconcerned that their enclosures were rocking with the wake from passing boats. Families relaxing in hammocks on the front decks barely acknowledged our presence, and various motorized boats loaded with produce and packages moved between the structures.


The unique embankment creates a rich biodiversity of fish, birds, reptiles and other mammals around the lake. The aquatic habitat provides 75%!o(MISSING)f the inland fishing catch and supports over 3 million people with food. The lake houses over 300 species of fresh water fish, 20 variety of snakes, 10 variety of turtles a crocodile species and a leopard cat species. There is a nearby bird sanctuary. In the lake are huge giant catfish, with record of specimens up to 600lbs. This endangered species is confined to the Mekong and surrounding rivers and lakes. A large crocodile farming industry thrives on and around Tonle Sap Lake. The main species is the Siamese crocodile, critically endangered in the wild. The lake also provides a habitat for 13 different species of turtle. This place rocks!


Returning to dry land, it was time for lunch. The Chef d’Angkor Restaurant located back in Siem Reap and close to my hotel, was an ideal choice. After a delicious 4-course meal, I hailed a tuk-tuk and headed back to the hotel for a quick nap – this heat combined with crazy high humidity sucks the energy right out of me sometimes.



Tomorrow I fly back to Bangkok and spend a couple of days there getting massages, doing last minute shopping and hopefully, find a new suitcase! I also plan on sleeping a lot more than I have over the past few days….in preparation for the tedious and never-ending transpacific flights next week.



And where do I journey next? Your guess is as good as mine. Stay tuned for the next adventure…cheers.

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