My return to Siem Reap - Same, Same but Different!

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Two bus trips, two flights, one tuk tuk ride and 21 hours after leaving Toowoomba, I finally arrive at the hotel which I'll be calling home for the next five weeks - Horizons Cambodia! When I left Siem Reap in April 2013 I knew I would return, and now that time has finally arrived!

Horizons is well situated, in Street 23 Wat Bo, on the opposite side of the river to the main town area. It is an easy 10 minute walk across the bridge, down the lane alongside Wat Preah Prom Rath and into Pub Street itself. After settling in, I headed out in foot to have a look around and see what changes have occurred in the past two years.

Everything is, well, same same but different. Dust and litter still coat the streets, the tuk tuk drivers still call out, wanting fares. Some businesses have closed down, others opened. The river is fuller than I have ever seen it, and the Royal Gardens are scruffier than ever. The 'milk scam' girls with their drugged babies are still scamming unsuspecting tourists. There is lots of building and renovation work happening, one big job in Pub St, probably raising more dust and disturbing more rodents than the neighbouring eateries (and their customers) need to know about.

But, the locals are still smiling and friendly, and the kids still call out as you pass. I had a lovely meal in Pub St for $5 and a $2 tuk tuk ride across town with a driver who had never heard of the guesthouse I needed to visit. The place smells the same, the same souvenir items fill the market stands and flies still buzz over the meat in the old market. As I write this, I've been back for two days and feel I've never been away.

Yesterday (day one) during my walk around town I heard someone calling my name. I turned around to see Meas, my tuk tuk driver friend whom I've stayed in contact with, walking toward me with a big grin on his face. He knew I was back but I never expected to run into him so soon. It was great to catchup and I'll see more of him over the coming weeks.

Probably the biggest change I've noticed is the opening of a big Asia Market Supermarket on Sivatha St, opposite Canadia Bank. I had a quick walk up and down the aisles and noticed many more western products on sale. I could have purchased a toaster here, something unavailable in Siem Reap two years ago, but at $70 for the basic 2 slice model, I decided to give it a miss. I had dinner at Home Cocktail Bar & Restaurant, washed down with a rum and coke for $7.50. Afterwards I walked back to Horizons for an early night, as I was shattered after having very little sleep on the plane the previous night.

Tuesday morning finds me retracing my steps from the day before. I'm heading to Smart, a phone company with premises in Sivatha St, to buy a sim and credit. But, I didn't have my passport with me (should have remembered, same requirement 2 years ago) so was unable to buy. Looks like another visit, another time.

For the past few months I have been in contact with Tori Green from Hand in Heart Project, based here in Siem Reap. Our contact has been limited to emails and facebook messages, and today we will met in person. A catchup over lunch has been planned.

Tori, a 42 year old English photographer and artist, founded Hand in Heart in 2011. Tori's vision is to give Siem Reap's street kids the opportunity to explore their artistic potential, weather it be playing a musical instrument, art, photography or skate boarding!

Tori is one busy and dedicated lady, her enthusiasm and drive are inspiring. At the moment she is organising the 3 day Sok San Road Street Festival in February and building an Eco Arts hut in Palm Farm Village, outside Siem Reap. If that's not enough to keep her busy, she has just signed the lease on premises in Sok San Road which will become 'Sok San Studio' a drop-in centre and youth club for street kids. I took a tuk tuk from Horizons to Rogues on Sok San Road for my lunch with Tori. We recognised each other straight away and settled in for a long talk, once drink and lunch orders were given. After lunch we walked further up Sok San Road so Tori could show me the new premises. Unfortunately we couldn't get inside as Tori doesn't get the keys for another 2 days. The landlord has been busy....he has cleaned up the rubbish and painted the entire building, inside and out, orange! Not her choice of colour, Tori commented, but I'm sure in will be covered with artwork in time to come.

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Photos

Another pink tuktuk
They say to be copied is the best form of flattery...Meas has nothing to worry about!

Angkor Wat! Bar Wall Art
A popular late night bar in Pub Street.

Siem Reap River
Fuller than I've ever seen it.

Funky Lane
Build a guesthouse called Funky Guesthouse then name the street after yourself. No kidding, this is what happened.

Hand in Heart's Sok San Studio
Just leased & in the process of being painted and tidied up by the landlord.

Horizons Cambodia
My home for the next five weeks