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Published: August 28th 2009
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It's the end of the summer holidays, and I'm actually writing this few days after our final trip. We have arrived in Bangkok, ready to settle in our new home. But first, a last few days for Ma'ri and I while Leslie is enjoying some time with his Mum. We arrived safely after nearly 6 hours bus ride from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. We arrived at the bus station and hired our tuk-tuk for the next few days straight on. The great idea of having the same guy for few days is that you never have to negotiate after this to get anywhere. Made our way to our hotel for some relaxing time around the swimming pool.
This is my third visit to Angkor Wat. First time was back in July 1997, one week after the military coup. Guess what! At that time, the first day of the visit, they sold 20 tickets...for the entire sites. Imagine, Angkor Wat, 3pm, and not a single tourist behind my friend and myself. In 1997 we spent our first day...walking...crazy people...started it at Angkor, and walked all the way to Preah Khan. The next day, we did hire two motorbikes and their
drivers...we were crazy....but not "that" crazy! At the time, there was only 2 or 3 restaurants opened in the city. I remember that we were the first tourists back after the coup, even meeting the tourist minister of the time trying to do some PR job...it was something else, you couldn't leave Siem Reap by night as they were still mines on the roads around at night.
Than I went back with Leslie god's father, Christophe, in 2004. That time the tourists were already there in mass. We decided to ride Angkor...on bicycles...was a lot of fun...tuk-tuk had appeared, but it was not our first choice.
So today is 2009...and I'm back...for my first romantic Angkor...and sorry to say Christophe, it's a lot more fun to share a room with Ma'ri...smile! So we opted for the "romantic" transportation...by tuk-tuk. But I also made a discovery...we did wake up early...very early...as 2 days out of our 3 days-pass...we were by the temples at 5am! And what a discovery...I feel ashamed I did not do it before! If you ever come here...do wake up early...that's the only advise I have....and Christophe, you'll have to bring Caroline the sunrise...forget about sunsets!
Angkor Wat in 2009....well...first, you cannot climb anymore wherever you want. For the main site of Angkow Wat, the center part of the buidling is simply closed to tourists...1997...is far away!
But the renovation is seriously going around...and this time we did discovered the Baphon Temple, and it's lying Buddha....quite amazing...but not realy great pictures.
The best part of the visit was by far the sunrise on Angkor Wat...and the next morning, reaching Bayon at 5am...alone with very few other tourists...amazing!
The city of Siem Reap has also improved a lot! Bars and restaurants everywhere...translating also in seriously cheap gin tonic...1.5usd for a gin tonic, with a gin of reputable quality, this is a serious bargain! I've also been finally able to have some great khmer food and this has somehow change my idea of the local gastronomy.
For the temples, it's the usual one who still amazed me...Angkor Wat for the sunrise and the carvings in the lower gallery. Bayon and the tens of smiles. Do not come here around 9am...not a good idea, 5am is a paradise which leaves you the time to meditate on your visit. Ta Prohm is next on my
list...even if they have now way to many signs and arrow to tell you where to go...finish is the time of the "discovery" feeling...Preah Khan, it's size and architecture...pure enjoyments...and the back door of Ta Som...
It may be the third time, but it's always great. I've been lucky enough to visit all of the new seven wonders...even going twice to Matchu Pitchu...and with my best friend Christophe! But Angkor and his temples, this is a dream!
We will be back...when...time will tell...
For the moment, the holidays are over. School is starting for Leslie...more to discover, more to learn, and a lot of new friends to meet in the coming weeks! A lot more blogs probably also about Thailand. I've been here a lot, but still have so much to discover. And to be honest, I'm a way bigger fan of Thai food than Chinese food...and of Thai manners compare to Chinese manners.
The land of Smiles, our new home...here we are!
So with a lot of smiles from all of us...we hope to see you soon! Love!
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Mary Harper
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Beautiful Awesome History
Very awesome!! Thanks, The Harper Family...