Angkor Temples

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We are now in Siem Reap, the gentrified version of Cambodia. No rough edges here - it would be unseemly to the Western tour groups that come here. Not that there's anything wrong with tastefully decorated restaurants, bars, cafes, and hotesl - it's just less raw. I imagine that being a local here must be like growing up in Williamsburg - the primary industry is tourism, and you wouldn't exist or be employed save for their generosity. Otherwise there's nothing too special about the town itself - what's remarkable to the point of defying description are the Angkor era temples that begin 5km outside of town.

It's hard to know where to begin with the Angkor temples. Much of what is astonishing about them is their sheer presence: Angkor Wat is about a kilometer long on each side. Other temples are around 200-400m long on each side. Then there's the height factor. Many (in fact, all) are built to emulate Mt. Meru, the mythical home of the Hindu gods. Mt. Meru is therefore of immortal proportions, and the temples built here are intended to act as temporary dwellings for the the gods - conduits between the divine and the mortal. Such temples have multiple levels, anywhere from three to seven depending on the particular era and symbolic intentions of the temple. This means that frequently you're climbing another 50-75m to get to the top level. When you're in the temples, it's hard to think of things to say about them, because your sense of place is so overloaded and astonished that you are rendered thoughtless and speechless.

Once you've gotten over the initial impression, the big picture of the temple, you begin to notice all the details that went into creating it. Each doorway (gopura) has three parts: the colonnette, the lintel, and the tympanum. The colonettes are two slender columns supporting either side of the doorframe, and the base of the intracately carved lintel above. The tympanum is the crest above the lintel, usually with a triangular shape bordered by either multi-headed snakes (naga) or flame motifs. Then there's the windows, the walls, the floors, and the ceilings - all of which are frequently carved as well. By and large the carvings depict scenes from either the jatakra (Buddha's various incarnations) or the Ramayana (a Hindu text telling the story of King Rama). Often you'll also see individual apsara or devataras (female dancers and divinities respectively) or fierce looking guards carved to ward off evil. Depending on whether or how much the temple is restored, you'll either be astonished by the intricate, painstaking work of the Khmer, or be thrilled as you try to make out the worn shapes on the sandstone blocks.

At its height (about 1100 CE), the Angkor towns around Siem Reap boasted a million inhabitants. Some of the temples were more like large cities, taking close to 100,000 people to support its functioning with specialized artisans, priests, dancers, woodworkers, carvers, errand runners, and more. The incredibly sophisticated irrigation system which fed the rice paddies of the Tonle Sap floodlands was able to produce three harvests per year and support the inhabitants with a surplus. In terms of ancient civilization, the history books are doing everyone in the world a disservice by excluding the Angkor kingdom from the syllabus.

When the internet connections aren't slow anymore (probably when I get to HCMC) I'll be able to upload a full complement of photos. I'll be sure to comment them in detail so you'll know what's what, and why it's important or significant. For now I've posted a teaser of Beng Mealea, which is far and away the coolest and most impressive temple ruins we've visited. It's set in the middle of the jungle, and no efforts whatsoever have been made to restore it. You're allowed (or not forbidden at least) to climb all over the rubble, which makes for some incredible adventures. It's a very surreal experience, and it's hard to remember that you're in the 21st century when you visit. It made me feel like I was an explorer from the height of the colonial era, and I'd just discovered this magnificent, mysterious, and intriguiging pile of stones in the middle of absolutely nowhere. Thrilling and exhilarating are really the only words that come close to describing it. Reviewing my photos actually gave me chills. Anyways, check them out for yourself at Picasa.

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