Landed in Battambang

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Well after a few more days of wandering around Siem Reap, I decided to wait until the day after the football (I stayed up why?) to take the boat to Battambang.

Pick up was from my hostel at around 6.40, a quick drive around town picking up other brave and intrepid travellers and on to the ferry. I had left my water at the hostel, but was lucky enough to buy another one from a lady just before I got on the boat.

The boat wasn't that large, our bags were stored on the roof, and we made our way down to below dacks. The front part of which had a very low roof raising in a sharp curve a little further back from where I took my seat. As I was one of the last ones on, I had little choice of seat, and ended up with one near the front with a more limited view than those further back behind where the roof was higher.

Unlike the boat that we took through Laos to Thailand a few years ago, this one didn't have a nice lady serving food and drink, and the seats were basically a molded plastic box running along the side of the boat. The engine was open at the back of the boat, and made enough racket that it was difficult to talk over. Which meant most of us didn't really try.

We set off quickly, and were soon passing floating houses and shops that line the route out onto the freshwater lake. The houses were all shapes and sizes, and everyone was soon taking photos left, right and centre.

We were soon out onto the lake, I could just make out the shore to our right, but turning to my left I could only see the lake stretching out towards the horizon. In that direction, all you could see was the lake and a white, cloud filled sky reaching down to meet it. The water was a dirty brown, and this continued to be true for the rest of the trip up the river. This was the Tonle Sap, the largest freshwater lake in SE Asia. For half of the year it drains into the Mekong. For the other half, the Mekong actually forces water back into the lake.

We were only cutting across the corner of the lake, and for most of the time that we were on there (Around 20-30 minutes I guess) the water was dotted with water lillies and there was little else to see. I spent most of my time just looking out across the lake. Although I did notice the driver (The set up was almost like a car) nod off once.

Luckily by the time we had reached the other side, he was awake again and sailed us successfully up the Sangkae river towards Battambang. The river was crowded on either side by a veritable town all afloat. The houses seemed to mainly be using either bamboo or large oil drums to float. They had shops, schools, police stations and even polictical party buildings. I saw a Wat or two, but I am pretty sure these may have actually been on the banks, rather than the river itself.

We continued up through various towns and villages, all afloat picking up locals and their wares. The man that got on with a full size dressing table was probably my favourite. The locals on their boats just watched us sail past, as we sat watching them taking pictures. The children usually waved, and waved more when we waved back, smiling all the time.

And that was bascially the story for the next nine hours. The river closed in the further we went up the river. The towns got smaller, and further up there were less boats and more buildings on the shore itself. The scenery changed littlle. We were on a brown river with trees to either side. Towards the end, rice paddies replaced trees, and the river became winding. Forcing us to slow down at every corner.

We did stop once for food, but I declined. What I saw on others plates didn't really make me want to rush over and fill myself up. The urns looked like they had been sitting there all day at the very least. I could wait, as it was already half one. By all accounts we were supposed to arrive at three. I am pretty sure it was around five when we arrived finally, beaten by the sun, battered bums due to sitting on a plastic box for too long. And for most of those that sat further back in the boat, cracked heads as they all misjudged the drop in the ceiling. I probably ended up with the best seat. No headache, covered from most of the sun which had come out in force around mid-day, and nicely cooled as the spray from the front of the boat covered me in the late afternoon as the driver tried to make up time. Although I was pretty much deaf until I went to sleep.

Arriving in Battambang, I took a free tuk-tuk to a local hotel, booked in for half the price of my room in Siem Reap (Although I only have cold water shower, brrrr in the mornings). I had a shower, which was lovely and refreshing and went upstairs to the restaurant. The views were something else... when booking in, the man had tried to sell me the view as lovely. I am not convinced.

I had beef curry, which was nice. I then headed back to my room and crashed out for a couple of hours. Waking later, I tried to go for a wander around town. But as it was dark, with only shop lights illuminating the streets I didn't get far, before giving in and returning to eat again in the hotel's restaurant. The food this time was Amok chicken soup, again very nice. I spent the rest of a pleasant even talking to a young french girl who had also arrived today. She had also come today from Siem Reap. She came by bus... five times cheaper, and left at 1.30pm!

In hindsight, I chose wrong. The journey is nice, but if you have done the slow boat in Laos, then that in my opinion is better. I think if it had been the advertised seven hours, then it would have been a lot better. Almost ten hours was a bit too long. Especially as the bus that left at 1.30 got in around the same time as us. I won't complain though, I did get to see some nice birds (Feathered kind) along the way, the lake was good and making the children smile and laugh by waving back was fun throughout the day.

I have been out this morning, and the town has little in the way of attractions. The river is still brown and low. There are some nice buildings left over from the French, and you can also see their influence in some wide boulivards along the waterfront. Apart from that, it looks like most other Asian cities I have seen. It is certainly the least touristy place I have been for a while.

Saying that I am probably plainning to go see the temple and the killing cave either this afternoon or tomorrow. After that it will be off to Phnom Penh probably.

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