Cambodia

---

Cambodia, our 4th and last country on this Indochina leg of our trip, is a country of extreme contrasts. It shares similar history with the adjoining countries involving wars over borders and conquests. In fact, until the 14th century, Cambodia’s Khmer rulers were the strongest rulers of large parts of both Thailand, Laos and Vietnam as well. Today is a different story of a country hosting both an iconic world treasure at Angkor Wat and recovering from the devastation of the Khmer Rouge years and the Killing Fields of Pol Pot.
We arrived in the capital, Phnom Penh, after an eight hour bus ride from Ho Chi Minh City. The French architectural legacy, combined with the Cambodian Royal Palace buildings, contributes to a very attractive city at the confluence of three rivers. We immediately took to the water for a cruise to watch the sunset over our old friend the Mekong River. The food here is a bit like Lao food in that it is not very hot or spicy. The 19th century Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda are well worth seeing as they house exquisite wall murals, an Emerald Buddha and various jewel led Buddhas also. There is an interesting Foreign Correspondents Club right on the river which provided good food with excellent views.
In 1975 the Khmer Rouge took over Phnom Penh and emptied it of its 3 million population, sending them out into the countryside and closing down all the infrastructure of the country. In the next 4 years approximately 2 million people were murdered. We visited the main interrogation centre, Tuol Sleng, and saw the photographs of the ‘disappeared’. In this they were similar to the Nazis in that meticulous records were kept of all those who suffered at their hands. Of all who arrived at Tuol Sleng to be interrogated, none survived. Our guide, who was separated from his family and sent into the fields aged 5 told us his story, always looking to make sure he was not overheard. (Most of the middle ranking Khmer Rouge officials were given amnesty, took off their uniforms and many are now in positions of authority.) Cambodia is slowly coming back from this and the first trial with both local and international judges has just convicted the director of Tuol Sleng.
On the way to Siem Reap we spent one night at the home of a local family out in the countryside. What an experience! We were made very welcome, slept on the floor and ate outside. It is a way to bring tourism money to the community.
Siem Reap is the base for exploring the most fantastic collection of temples, mostly 10th -12th century. We started with Ta Prohm which was made famous in recent years from the film Tomb Raider. One particularly dramatic root growth is even called the Angelina Jolie temple! In every direction there is an even more spectacular sight. Another special temple which stands out is called Bayon. This one has something like 232 different huge faces of Bhudda, very moving and peaceful. The following morning we arrived at Angkor Wat, the jewel in the crown here, just before dawn to watch the light as the sun came up. It did not disappoint and we spent many happy hours climbing over various chapels and stupas – many Kodak moments!
The following day we travelled back to Bangkok and the end of our group trip.
Watch this space for one final entry as we head back to Luang Prabang, Laos, for our last week of the trip.

---

Photos

Foreign Correspondent Club,
Phnom Penh

P1020407
snack

Comments

[Carole Gelfeld]

Wonderful
Did the last bit I sent get lost???? Entranced by the commentary and photos of your trip. Angor Wat is still in my plans..... You have made these outposts of the world come to life for us. Thanks so much for all the effort to make us a part of your incredible journey. Carole & Doug